My Solution to the Subwoofer Problem (1 Viewer)

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After reading a lot on the forum about the bass (or lack thereof) and the difficulty finding speakers I decided to take a stab at it and do an experiment. I decided instead of using it as a sub I would convert it to a mid-bass unit and add an additional sub for the lower frequency stuff. It turned out, for me, to be a worthy project. I searched on Crutchfield and found a pair of Kicker 4" full range speakers that are for marine environments. I have attached the link for them:

Kicker KM42CW

3.jpg


These are 2ohm speakers which are the same as the subs currently installed and have a relatively decent 89db/1 watt sensitivity and frequency response (60-20k). They run $120/pair

1.jpg


Although these are 2 way speakers I took the plunge on modifying them for what I wanted. I clipped off the tweeters and the wiring feeding it, creating a 1 way speaker.

After yanking the sub enclosure I removed the factory speakers and test fitted. They fit perfectly. The only modifications I had to make was to clip off the little alignment button molded into the enclosure which correctly places the original speaker (sorry, forgot to snap the pic but its pretty obvious when you test fit the speaker) and shave down the new speaker terminals so they would fit in the factory female terminals. After hooking the wiring up and placing the speakers in the holes I used the supplied stainless steel screws to affix them.

Everything mounted back up:

2.jpg


DynaMat - a jaw dropping difference. I put a 12"x14" piece on the body panel behind the enclose too. In addition to this I replaced all the door speakers with JL Audio speakers and did the doors with DynaMat as well. The only thing I hear is the engine and a light amount of wind noise around the windshield. Simply amazing stuff.

I have an Alpine ilx-207 head unit. I went into the setup and turned the subwoofer on to cut out the low frequencies and tested without the new sub installed to see how it sounded and was impressed with the punch. Buttoned everything up and voila - satisfaction.
 
I got an aftermarket head unit and I have a very annoying buzzing sound/whine coming from all speakers and tweeters. Did you keep your stock head unit?
 
Nice write - up. Thank you for sharing!

I see that you replaced the head unit. Did you keep the stock amp, or bypass that too with new wiring to all speakers? I'm in a '98 LX470 for reference, and am spacing out replacing my head unit first to see the improvement, then moving on to speakers if I feel it is needed.
 
I’m still running the factory amp but I’m looking to replace it. The factory amp is still ok but it only puts out 20w. I’m looking for a wiring harness that will plug into the pre-existing one. I have a spare one from the Kenwood I yanked that looks like it fits one of the harnesses but there’s two. I need a day project to pull the seat and have a look
 
I did something similar when replacing my speakers, I used 2-way speakers for the sub and three way for everything else. Got them all from Crutchfield. $150 for all, both doors and the sub.
 
I got an aftermarket head unit and I have a very annoying buzzing sound/whine coming from all speakers and tweeters. Did you keep your stock head unit?

Same. My installer said that is called "floor noise". We tried noise reducers, nothing changed. Finally ended up building a custom harness at the amplifier that bypassed it, with the exception of still powering the rear subwoofer and that cut down the floor noise by about 75%. It went from very apparent, to only noticeable if the car was off with just the stereo on and nothing playing.
 
I’m still running the factory amp but I’m looking to replace it. The factory amp is still ok but it only puts out 20w. I’m looking for a wiring harness that will plug into the pre-existing one. I have a spare one from the Kenwood I yanked that looks like it fits one of the harnesses but there’s two. I need a day project to pull the seat and have a look

Shouldn't have to pull the seat to get to the amp, it slides forward a lot more than you'd think. Were able to easily access all of the amps plugs with out removing the seat. Now if you need to remove the amp, yes seat will probably need to come out.
 
After reading a lot on the forum about the bass (or lack thereof) and the difficulty finding speakers I decided to take a stab at it and do an experiment. I decided instead of using it as a sub I would convert it to a mid-bass unit and add an additional sub for the lower frequency stuff. It turned out, for me, to be a worthy project. I searched on Crutchfield and found a pair of Kicker 4" full range speakers that are for marine environments. I have attached the link for them:

Kicker KM42CW

View attachment 1543591

These are 2ohm speakers which are the same as the subs currently installed and have a relatively decent 89db/1 watt sensitivity and frequency response (60-20k). They run $120/pair

View attachment 1543590

Although these are 2 way speakers I took the plunge on modifying them for what I wanted. I clipped off the tweeters and the wiring feeding it, creating a 1 way speaker.

After yanking the sub enclosure I removed the factory speakers and test fitted. They fit perfectly. The only modifications I had to make was to clip off the little alignment button molded into the enclosure which correctly places the original speaker (sorry, forgot to snap the pic but its pretty obvious when you test fit the speaker) and shave down the new speaker terminals so they would fit in the factory female terminals. After hooking the wiring up and placing the speakers in the holes I used the supplied stainless steel screws to affix them.

Everything mounted back up:

View attachment 1543592

DynaMat - a jaw dropping difference. I put a 12"x14" piece on the body panel behind the enclose too. In addition to this I replaced all the door speakers with JL Audio speakers and did the doors with DynaMat as well. The only thing I hear is the engine and a light amount of wind noise around the windshield. Simply amazing stuff.

I have an Alpine ilx-207 head unit. I went into the setup and turned the subwoofer on to cut out the low frequencies and tested without the new sub installed to see how it sounded and was impressed with the punch. Buttoned everything up and voila - satisfaction.

Thank you! Can you share what vehicle you have?
I have a '99 LX w/ Nakamichi and have yet to figure out if I have the sub w/ 2 speakers or 1...
 
After reading a lot on the forum about the bass (or lack thereof) and the difficulty finding speakers I decided to take a stab at it and do an experiment. I decided instead of using it as a sub I would convert it to a mid-bass unit and add an additional sub for the lower frequency stuff. It turned out, for me, to be a worthy project. I searched on Crutchfield and found a pair of Kicker 4" full range speakers that are for marine environments. I have attached the link for them:

Kicker KM42CW

View attachment 1543591

These are 2ohm speakers which are the same as the subs currently installed and have a relatively decent 89db/1 watt sensitivity and frequency response (60-20k). They run $120/pair

View attachment 1543590

Although these are 2 way speakers I took the plunge on modifying them for what I wanted. I clipped off the tweeters and the wiring feeding it, creating a 1 way speaker.

After yanking the sub enclosure I removed the factory speakers and test fitted. They fit perfectly. The only modifications I had to make was to clip off the little alignment button molded into the enclosure which correctly places the original speaker (sorry, forgot to snap the pic but its pretty obvious when you test fit the speaker) and shave down the new speaker terminals so they would fit in the factory female terminals. After hooking the wiring up and placing the speakers in the holes I used the supplied stainless steel screws to affix them.

Everything mounted back up:

View attachment 1543592

DynaMat - a jaw dropping difference. I put a 12"x14" piece on the body panel behind the enclose too. In addition to this I replaced all the door speakers with JL Audio speakers and did the doors with DynaMat as well. The only thing I hear is the engine and a light amount of wind noise around the windshield. Simply amazing stuff.

I have an Alpine ilx-207 head unit. I went into the setup and turned the subwoofer on to cut out the low frequencies and tested without the new sub installed to see how it sounded and was impressed with the punch. Buttoned everything up and voila - satisfaction.


Nice write up! I've been thinking of doing something similar, and wondered if anyone has been able to fit a powered sub unit under the passenger seat? I'm running after market head unit so my factory amp is not hooked up.
 
Nice write - up. Thank you for sharing!

I see that you replaced the head unit. Did you keep the stock amp, or bypass that too with new wiring to all speakers? I'm in a '98 LX470 for reference, and am spacing out replacing my head unit first to see the improvement, then moving on to speakers if I feel it is needed.

Hey bud, good to see you pop up here. I am trying to remember if you have Nakamichi in your rig? I too am getting itchy to replace the head unit, but would like to do so w/o a bunch of cutting and splicing...
 
Hey bud, good to see you pop up here. I am trying to remember if you have Nakamichi in your rig? I too am getting itchy to replace the head unit, but would like to do so w/o a bunch of cutting and splicing...
Hey hey! I do not have the Nakamichi in mine.
 

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