DIY A/C recharge w/o gauges (1 Viewer)

[Malleus]

I'm interested in hearing from anyone who's done their own recharge (134a).

What have you done that you'd recommend?
Would you do it again, or take it to a shop? I'm not interested in buying gauges, because I don't intend to go into the business (at least, I hope not)

 

[Twinair]

Is this a recharge due to opening up the system to replace a component or just adding refrigerant because it appears to be low on charge?

 

[GeoRoss]

You can go to AutoZone or Oreilly's and borrow the gauges. You give them a deposit that you get back when you return them.

 

[Malleus]

Just adding refrigerant; although I've always wondered how sealed systems loose refrigerant, without a leak. Must be an engineering thing...

 

[Malleus]

You can go to AutoZone or Oreilly's and borrow the gauges. You give them a deposit that you get back when you return them.

I didn't think of that. I knew Vato-Zone loans tools, but I didn't know A/C gauges were among them. Thanks.

 

[Twinair]

Just adding refrigerant; although I've always wondered how sealed systems loose refrigerant, without a leak. Must be an engineering thing...

Any autoparts store will have a kit that includes refrigerant and integral gauge/hose/connector. Add charge with compressor running until gauge is in the green. Refrigeration systems are a closed system in theory and refrigerant should never need to be topped off. Leaks do develop however so you gotta do what you gotta do to stay cool.
Interdynamics EZ Chill R-134a Refrigerant Plus Oil with Leak Sealer (18 oz.) MAC-134: Advance Auto Parts

 

[GeoRoss]

I highly recommend using gauges. I've only done a full recharge from a vacuumed system once. It is a little subjective.

There are many threads on how to do this. I've been planning on writing up my complete rebuild in an attempt to put something together for the complete novice. I'm just waiting to make sure I did it right. 3 weeks in and I'm blowing >40° below ambient.

 

[Malleus]

I highly recommend using gauges. I've only done a full recharge from a vacuumed system once. It is a little subjective.

There are many threads on how to do this. I've been planning on writing up my complete rebuild in an attempt to put something together for the complete novice. I'm just waiting to make sure I did it right. 3 weeks in and I'm blowing >40° below ambient.

Is that "Desert Air" or "everybody else in the US air"?

 

[GeoRoss]

Is that "Desert Air" or "everybody else in the US air"?

Desert air, but when I did the recharge it was 105° with dew points in the 70° range. I was getting 56-58° vent temps in the driveway. Now I'm around 52° vent temps in the driveway.

 

[Twinair]

I highly recommend using gauges. I've only done a full recharge from a vacuumed system once. It is a little subjective.

There are many threads on how to do this. I've been planning on writing up my complete rebuild in an attempt to put something together for the complete novice. I'm just waiting to make sure I did it right. 3 weeks in and I'm blowing >40° below ambient.

I agree but gauges are useless if one doesn't know how to interpret what the gauges are displaying. For a novice looking to simply top off a low system a dummy-proof gauge that says "add charge" or "good" or "remove charge" is best IMO.

 

[Mandrake]

Just spend the $75 and have a shop do it for real. Those bottles with a gauge on them are a good way to blow your system out and end up paying hundreds to have someone fix it.

PS: If a system is losing refrigerant, first place to look is under the high/low port caps. If you loosen the cap and hear a hiss, that's where the leak is, and the schrader valve needs to be replaced. Have a shop do it.

 

[Rifleman]

These trucks still have a sight glass on the drivers fender, so you can "eyeball" your fill using just the bubble stream in the sight glass. As to why these systems need to be top off with Freon, MOST of the time It's due to the rubber hoses. Over time all rubber hoses will developed porosity leading to a loss of Freon, the only thing you can do is replace all your rubber hoses, but in another 10 to 15 years due to heat and age they will start leaking again. That's the reason why your home AC system only uses hard metal lines, it helps prevent leaks.

 

[Malleus]

This is why I didn't download the A/C section of the FSM. I had enough of thermodynamics in school to last me a lifetime.

 

[ZackR]

The gauges are nice because they allow you to purge air from the lines before charging. I'd check with your local parts store to see if they loan them out.