Hi all, I'm new here and new to mechanics. I recently purchase a 1984 Toyota sr5 in good shape. It has a approx 5" leaf spring suspension lift, rebuilt 22r engine, double transfer case w/ crawl gear, e lockers front and rear, arb bumper w winch, etc. it runs well but I am having two issues I need help w. The first is a high idle when I am driving and depress the clutch. It hangs aroun 1500-1700 rpm. A blip on the gas and it drops to 800-900rpms. Was checked for Vac leaks and none were detected. The second issue is when I am in 4hi/low, there is an intermittent wrenching noise that comes from what sounds like the left front wheel. The noise is rotational and matches the tire rotation, or so it seems. It goes away if I turn the wheel but returns when I have it straight. Again, this went away for a week and then came back this am while driving on the beach. Any help is greatly appreciated as I am new to mechanics and want to learn my truck. Thanks all!
1984 sr5 modified need help w/ high idle and front wheel noise in 4x4 (1 Viewer)
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Check the movement of the throttle cable. It can become frayed, kinked or the barrel connector can become misshapen. With the throttle cable disconnected, check to ensure the throttle operates smoothly (you say it's an '84 SR-5 so I assume the engine is a 22R-E).
2ndGenToyotaFan
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Try running with the transfercase in 4wd, but the hubs unlocked, then with the hubs locked and the transfercase in 2wd. See if the noise changes. Could be a hub problem also, there is a link in the FAQ thread here about rebuilding the hubs.
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It doesn't make the noise when the hubs are unlocked and the 4wd is engaged. But it does make the rotational, rubbing noise when the hubs are engaged and 4wd is not. Def not the front drive shaft since that is new and it made the noise prior to replacement. Appreciate the help!
2ndGenToyotaFan
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Maybe dry or worn out birfield joints... Does the noise happen all the time, EI while turning and going straight?
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It only seems to happen when I go straight and only in 4wd. It goes away when I turn the wheel and returns when I straighten it out. If I made S turns the whole beach= no noise. My one friend did say the birf joints looked dry. I will get em lubed up!
Is your truck fuel injection or carbed? I ask because you say 22r, which is carbed and I don't believe there were fuel injected '84's, which is a 22re.
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I've got the same high idle problem on a 1988 4Runner. It goes away once the truck "warms up".
My temp gauge or thermostat may be wonky. Temp gauge does not come up for a LONG time.
Just got this truck a week ago.
Keep us posted on the high idle problem. I'll report back here if I find anything myself.
My temp gauge or thermostat may be wonky. Temp gauge does not come up for a LONG time.
Just got this truck a week ago.
Keep us posted on the high idle problem. I'll report back here if I find anything myself.
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Yes, that was my mistake. 22re, injection
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Mine doesn't go away when it warms up. Consistent throughout,cold or hot. I'll post what I find! Stoked on all the help guys!!
That sucks!
Yeah, I tried blipping the throttle like with any old junk GM vehicle (lol) but that does nothing. I will check my throttle cable anyway though. It looks a little "used".
First check the throttle cable and action. Make sure everything moves freely.
If that looks ok you may need to change the IACV (idle air control valve). It is supposed to keep the idle high until the coolant warms up then it gradually closes off a throttle plate bypass. Eventually the little thermo part can wear out and not close, I had to replace mine a couple of years ago, it was not cheap.
If that looks ok you may need to change the IACV (idle air control valve). It is supposed to keep the idle high until the coolant warms up then it gradually closes off a throttle plate bypass. Eventually the little thermo part can wear out and not close, I had to replace mine a couple of years ago, it was not cheap.
Aww crap. The IACV for the 1984-1988 trucks is unique. 22RE Performance.com says they are not available anymore.
idle air control valve (IAC)
"****PLEASE NOTE: this IAC is for the 1989-1995 years ONLY. Sorry, there is no option for your 1984-1988 22RE truck. They have been discontinued many years ago from toyota and I have yet to find any on the aftermarket. I have heard they are "rebuildable / cleanable", but I've never tried it personally, so I don't have any instructions on how to do it (nor are there any rebuild parts available for it)."
I also found this:
22R high idle when warm.. blip throttle to go away.
"TPS could be the issue. When I had this problem it was the throttle body sticking open."
Hopefully my thermostat is sticking open or some such cheap problem!
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Try cleaning out the throttle body! They get gummed up over time especially if you use k&n type air filters! The oil will build up over time! Use only throttle body cleaner! There is a coating in the throttle body and regular carb cleaner will remove it!
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Another question... I have the big hella lights, winch and a couple other rear lights wired in. I was planning on beefing up the battery. A few people have mentioned doing the alternator as well/ in stead. The existing alternator is new so I was hoping to not have to beef it up and that a better battery would suffice. Thoughts??
I ran an 8274 and 2 old school warn off road lights on the stock alternator and ran a 720 cc AGM battery and never had a problem.
You kinda need to do both. The battery is only for temporary short loads, not continuous. It also is the backup when the draw is more than the alternator can put out (like winching). A heavy continuous will also cause the alternator to overheat even if it is technically at or below it's output. Heat is bad for them.
So you need the biggest battery you can fit (I have a Group 34 AGM, it's tight), or better yet is a second battery dedicated to the large loads (winch, lighting, stereo, etc). Then a high output alternator, look into a GM CS130 upgrade as an example, Trail Gear makes a bracket for one, I have one all nicely painted and ready to install, but I never did the upgrade. Make sure you also upgrade the main output wire as well, like to a #4.
Aren't you glad you asked?
So you need the biggest battery you can fit (I have a Group 34 AGM, it's tight), or better yet is a second battery dedicated to the large loads (winch, lighting, stereo, etc). Then a high output alternator, look into a GM CS130 upgrade as an example, Trail Gear makes a bracket for one, I have one all nicely painted and ready to install, but I never did the upgrade. Make sure you also upgrade the main output wire as well, like to a #4.
Aren't you glad you asked?
Here's a video I did on a CS130 alternator swap. I put one in my Zuk.
I talk about all the alternator variations (short ear, tall ear) and how to clock the alternator case.
I talk about all the alternator variations (short ear, tall ear) and how to clock the alternator case.
