That picture is great. With that kind of family history, the wife and in-laws can't blame you for putting in some garage time. Keep up the good work!
Builds Patches - My '76 40. B3.3 Swap and some general fixin' up (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Kleatus
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
Somewhat of a productive day, but it
ended in a problem..
Pulled the drivetrain out to install the clutch and go through the transfer case.
Got them out and separated. Put new seals, o rings, gaskets in the t case.
Installed the flywheel, Pilot bearing, and clutch.
When I reassembled the trans to the engine, the TO bearing begins to engage the clutch fingers when there's still ~1/4" gap to close up at the bellhousing.
I am using:
- AA bellhousing
- AA throwout bearing (large radiused one, supplied with the NV4500 to 16 spline T-case adapter.)
- AA supplied clutch fork (std GM piece I think)
- AA neutral balance flywheel PN CF720002
- AA(LUK) clutch kit PN 04-072
I will need to call AA Monday, but will do some more digging... frustrating because their instructions basically tell you that you will have clutch release issues if you don't use their special throwout bearing with the Toyota slave cyl and their brackets, and their specific clutch kits.
The AA bellhousing did come with a standard GM throwout bearing that is shorter. Maybe I need to try that.
Without pulling everything apart again tonight I did some quick measuring that put the flywheel surface about 1.73" off the bellhousing.
More measuring and research needed...
ended in a problem..
Pulled the drivetrain out to install the clutch and go through the transfer case.
Got them out and separated. Put new seals, o rings, gaskets in the t case.
Installed the flywheel, Pilot bearing, and clutch.
When I reassembled the trans to the engine, the TO bearing begins to engage the clutch fingers when there's still ~1/4" gap to close up at the bellhousing.
I am using:
- AA bellhousing
- AA throwout bearing (large radiused one, supplied with the NV4500 to 16 spline T-case adapter.)
- AA supplied clutch fork (std GM piece I think)
- AA neutral balance flywheel PN CF720002
- AA(LUK) clutch kit PN 04-072
I will need to call AA Monday, but will do some more digging... frustrating because their instructions basically tell you that you will have clutch release issues if you don't use their special throwout bearing with the Toyota slave cyl and their brackets, and their specific clutch kits.
The AA bellhousing did come with a standard GM throwout bearing that is shorter. Maybe I need to try that.
Without pulling everything apart again tonight I did some quick measuring that put the flywheel surface about 1.73" off the bellhousing.
More measuring and research needed...
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- Thread starter
- #84
From the trans bellhousing face to the GM throwout bearing it is 3 3/16" with the bearing all the way forward, limited by the fork, and 4 1/8" all the way back.
It is 3 7/8" from the contact face of the clutch fingers to engine side of bellhousing.
Playing with a ratchet strap on the fork, I will need to use .772" throw on the stock Toyota slave cylinder (somewhat imprecise because I go from locked to being able to freely turn the output shaft with no dragging noise somewhere in between clicks on the strap..)
Does this number sound right using stock hydraulics? I'd rather sort this out now than find out later I don't have enough throw.
It is 3 7/8" from the contact face of the clutch fingers to engine side of bellhousing.
Playing with a ratchet strap on the fork, I will need to use .772" throw on the stock Toyota slave cylinder (somewhat imprecise because I go from locked to being able to freely turn the output shaft with no dragging noise somewhere in between clicks on the strap..)
Does this number sound right using stock hydraulics? I'd rather sort this out now than find out later I don't have enough throw.
- Thread starter
- #85
Got the transfer case put back on the trans and installed the shifter. I did have to shorten the High low selector rod to get it to work with the AA bracket, but also realized there's no more factory shift gate so 2WD Low is selectable.
Tried out a new method of paint removal- spray stripper on with a Shultz gun and pressure wash it off. Seems to work well and a lot quicker than the brush/scraper method! The stripper seems to work much better when laid on thick which is sometimes tough to do with the brush.
Before-
After stripper and pressure wash-
And after some sandblasting to clean up the rest and get a nice surface.
This is the stripper I used in case anyone is wondering. Got it at Home Depot.
Tried out a new method of paint removal- spray stripper on with a Shultz gun and pressure wash it off. Seems to work well and a lot quicker than the brush/scraper method! The stripper seems to work much better when laid on thick which is sometimes tough to do with the brush.
Before-
After stripper and pressure wash-
And after some sandblasting to clean up the rest and get a nice surface.
This is the stripper I used in case anyone is wondering. Got it at Home Depot.
- Thread starter
- #86
It was Hump day today. Aside from the rail over the passengers door on the hardtop, this should be the end of cutting out holey metal.
Turns out a 3FE cylinder head has some nice little steps to use as an anvil to shape sheetmetal. Know I know why I kept it around!
I have been very impressed with the craftsmanship shown by some builds here taking place in places of the world where folks don't have access to the kind of tools we take for granted here in the USA. Entire trucks built with an angle grinder and oxyacetylene welding torch.. My work isn't as nice as a lot of those guys do, but I do enjoy being able to patch things up with steel. Much more rewarding than trying to get filler smooth.
I saw a flap disc in Home Depot today I had to try. It's rounded and made to use on the face or the edge. Works great and well worth the money! I usually get grinding discs at the welding store, but was already there and needed a couple flap discs.
I have been stewing over the color Patches will be lately. I'm a big fan of the pastel blues on '40's and the wife really likes Dune Beige. I am not completely sold on the original Rustic Green, but I can justify it without any debate since it was the original color.
Turns out a 3FE cylinder head has some nice little steps to use as an anvil to shape sheetmetal. Know I know why I kept it around!
I have been very impressed with the craftsmanship shown by some builds here taking place in places of the world where folks don't have access to the kind of tools we take for granted here in the USA. Entire trucks built with an angle grinder and oxyacetylene welding torch.. My work isn't as nice as a lot of those guys do, but I do enjoy being able to patch things up with steel. Much more rewarding than trying to get filler smooth.
I saw a flap disc in Home Depot today I had to try. It's rounded and made to use on the face or the edge. Works great and well worth the money! I usually get grinding discs at the welding store, but was already there and needed a couple flap discs.
I have been stewing over the color Patches will be lately. I'm a big fan of the pastel blues on '40's and the wife really likes Dune Beige. I am not completely sold on the original Rustic Green, but I can justify it without any debate since it was the original color.
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JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
The choice is hard ... both are great colors
Nice job on the build so far
Nice job on the build so far
- Thread starter
- #89
Thanks Johnny!
Build, ah yes. It feels like so far it's just been a lot of taking things apart. My wife commented the other day that every time she sees it, it looks less like a complete vehicle! I explained that's what progress looks like!
greenish one looks good... great build, late follower 
- Thread starter
- #92
Made a cart to be able to roll the tub around the other day using some pneumatic castors (2 swiveling) on sale from HF.
More un-painting.
Also did some color test painting on the above partially-clean panels. I'm really liking the blue on the right (Summit Pacific Blue on left and Coastal Blue on right.) I do have some more colors coming, I really want to see what the 67-68 Mustang Diamond Blue looks like, so I have a quart coming.
More un-painting.
Also did some color test painting on the above partially-clean panels. I'm really liking the blue on the right (Summit Pacific Blue on left and Coastal Blue on right.) I do have some more colors coming, I really want to see what the 67-68 Mustang Diamond Blue looks like, so I have a quart coming.
Here's another blue...either Horizon or Cadet.
- Thread starter
- #96
Very impressed with the smoothness and slickness of actual automotive paint! Coming from someone who's only really used rattle cans or tractor paint with a roller, this is great! A lot less daunting of a job painting upon seeing how nice it looks on the portions of the test panels that were actually clean and straight. Bring it on!
- Thread starter
- #97
This Diamond Blue has really grown on me, now that I've had the chance to look at it out in the sun. With the white top it will look more blue. It has decent enough contrast next to white.
I have been going back and forth about how to approach painting the underside, which I will do prior to the topside.
I have an aversion to bed liner type coatings, as I've seen rust develop under them, they can hide developing corrosion, and they're hard to keep clean.
The tar based stuff I have seen work very well. I've never seen rust under it on any vehicles I've had it on. I believe most of them were coated with it when new. This truck was coated with it (presumably when new) and there's nice shiny factory paint under the frame where I remove it. It was under the front fenders and rear bed floor as well, and seemed to have done it's job quite well there, considering the environment the truck lived in.
My last two pickups have had spray on bedliners. One was Linex (had the decal from the Linex ship in Portland). The other I'm not sure of the brand. Both of them peeled and chipped, to the point where 20% or more of the coating was missing, down to the paint. Granted, I have no idea what kind of surface prep was done, and I am not as easy as your average person on pickup beds. This Cruiser won't see such abuse.
On the other hand, lots of people seem to be happy with Monstaliner and Raptor liner under their tubs, and I do like the stone chip protection such a coating would provide, plus they should provide some noise reduction.
Given that I have all new sheetmetal in the back and everything will be epoxy primed and seam sealed, maybe it's not such a bad idea. I think the downfalls everyone cites revolve around bad prep allowing poor adhesion and putting them over existing corrosion. It's easy to see how rust could grow and travel under a sprayed on liner if there was already rust and it didn't adhere well.
At the least I will be putting clear rocker guard/chip guard type product inside the wheel wells, and am still debating doing tinted liner product.
Anyone have any long term experience with the clear 3M chip guard or similar product?
I have been going back and forth about how to approach painting the underside, which I will do prior to the topside.
I have an aversion to bed liner type coatings, as I've seen rust develop under them, they can hide developing corrosion, and they're hard to keep clean.
The tar based stuff I have seen work very well. I've never seen rust under it on any vehicles I've had it on. I believe most of them were coated with it when new. This truck was coated with it (presumably when new) and there's nice shiny factory paint under the frame where I remove it. It was under the front fenders and rear bed floor as well, and seemed to have done it's job quite well there, considering the environment the truck lived in.
My last two pickups have had spray on bedliners. One was Linex (had the decal from the Linex ship in Portland). The other I'm not sure of the brand. Both of them peeled and chipped, to the point where 20% or more of the coating was missing, down to the paint. Granted, I have no idea what kind of surface prep was done, and I am not as easy as your average person on pickup beds. This Cruiser won't see such abuse.
On the other hand, lots of people seem to be happy with Monstaliner and Raptor liner under their tubs, and I do like the stone chip protection such a coating would provide, plus they should provide some noise reduction.
Given that I have all new sheetmetal in the back and everything will be epoxy primed and seam sealed, maybe it's not such a bad idea. I think the downfalls everyone cites revolve around bad prep allowing poor adhesion and putting them over existing corrosion. It's easy to see how rust could grow and travel under a sprayed on liner if there was already rust and it didn't adhere well.
At the least I will be putting clear rocker guard/chip guard type product inside the wheel wells, and am still debating doing tinted liner product.
Anyone have any long term experience with the clear 3M chip guard or similar product?
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I like your coastal blue, I'm not sure what to think of the diamond blue.
The 4bt 60 at the crusierheads BBQ had clear over his lower quarter panels. I can't remember his name but he is a paint guy to begin with and would be a possible resource.
- Thread starter
- #100
I got the wheel well/roll bar supports burned in this weekend, and repaired a few busted screws on the what was left of the original floor, and added a couple new ones for the transmission hump.
Also decided to redo my engine mounts as I could have done a better job on them, and I wanted to move the engine forwards for less transmission tunnel modification, longer rear driveshaft, and to get away from messing with the factory crossmember.
This meant reinstalling the engine/trans/transfer case for further fit-testing.
I am pretty sure the 1/2 Ton mark on harbor freight hoists is generous in regards to their stability..
Also decided to redo my engine mounts as I could have done a better job on them, and I wanted to move the engine forwards for less transmission tunnel modification, longer rear driveshaft, and to get away from messing with the factory crossmember.
This meant reinstalling the engine/trans/transfer case for further fit-testing.
I am pretty sure the 1/2 Ton mark on harbor freight hoists is generous in regards to their stability..
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