100,000 mile maintenance??? (1 Viewer)

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arich

Anthony. aka arich
Joined
Apr 20, 2004
Threads
127
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1,529
Location
New York
I am approaching 100k miles on my 2011.
I remember on my 100 90k was critical with timing belt and I did the waterpump and starter while I was in there.
200 is a different beast.
I've been fairly insane with regular maintenance. Switched from conventional oil to Mobil 1 at 30k and changed to 10k intervals. Oil is crystal clear.
Changed out diff and transfer case fluids to Amsoil severe gear fluid at 75k and installed Brian Jowett's magnets in diff cases.
I've changed brake pads twice.
Greased prop shafts every 10k.
Regularly change air and cabin filters.

So the big question is there anything major coming up that needs to get done?? Or am I missing anything.

Transmission is "lifetime" but I'm thinking about doing a filter, fluid swap even if it doesn't remove all the fluid.
Does anyone really change antifreeze, brake fluid??
 
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Yes, it's in there but I don't want to wait for failures to replace things like a water pump. Looking to be proactive.
Check to see if you have the little booklet with your manual that notes the maintenance cycles.
 
I am approaching 100k miles on my 2011.
I remember on my 100 90k was critical with timing belt and I did the waterbump and starter while I was in there.
200 is a different beast.
I've been fairly insane with regular maintenance. Switched from conventional oil to Mobil 1 at 30k and changed to 10k intervals. Oil is crystal clear.
Changed out diff and transfer case fluids to Amsoil severe gear fluid at 75k and installed Brian Jowett's magnets in diff cases.
I've changed brake pads twice.
Greased prop shafts every 10k.
Regularly change air and cabin filters.

So the big question is there anything major coming up that needs to get done?? Or am I missing anything.

Transmission is "lifetime" but I'm thinking about doing a filter, fluid swap even if it doesn't remove all the fluid.
Does anyone really change antifreeze, brake fluid??
Toyota Super Long Life needs its initial fill exchanged at 100,000 miles.

I changed brake fluid and powder steering every 2 years.

Toyota WS is designed for 60,000 miles of severe service, which we all drive in.

I also switch out my air/fuel, o2, and MAF sensors because from what I've learned when tuning, those sensors last, but are not the most accurate after 100k.
 
I did Starter, Radiator and Water Pump at the big 120k tuneup. Don't think there is anything major scheduled at 100k.
 
Transmission is "lifetime" but I'm thinking about doing a filter, fluid swap even if it doesn't remove all the fluid.
Does anyone really change antifreeze, brake fluid??

I did a full trans flush at 60k. It was about 12 quarts of fluid, maybe a bit more. I brought in Amsoil signature ATF fluid and the Toyota dealer charged $125 for the labor. You don't need to replace the transmission filter unless you are dropping the pan, which is unnecessary to do the flush. A full flush won't get all the fluid but you will get most of it.

You should flush the coolant at some point but I'd be inclined to do it at the same time as the radiator. Seems like a lot of people have radiator leaks around 120k.

You should change brake fluid every 2-3 years. Brake fluid is hydroscopic - it will absorb moisture and eventually corrode the brake system. That said I just did mine for the first time on my 2013. You can bleed the brakes yourself with a couple of quarts of DOT3 fluid and a one man brake bleeder. My 9 year old was excited to help so I just had him pump the brakes. Took about 30 minutes, mostly because I was obsessive about keeping the master cylinder topped off.

I've not done a power steering flush but I hear that's technically a thing.

If you've never repacked the wheel bearings this might be a good time. I can attest that the dealer charges well over $1000 to replace a front set if they go bad (mine were the fault of another mechanic) [retracted - @Taco2Cruiser says our bearings are sealed and can't be repacked]

I agree with @steenh on the big items. Whether or not you do them proactively might depend on how much of an impact they'd have if they broke on you at an inopportune time. If you spend the majority of your time around NY then you might choose to ride them out and just watch for signs of radiator and water pump leakage or the telltale click of a starter that's ready to fail. If you're traveling long distances you might want the peace of mind of replacing them.
 
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If you've never repacked the wheel bearings this might be a good time. I can attest that the dealer charges well over $1000 to replace a front set if they go bad (mine were the fault of another mechanic)

I might be missing something.

You can't repack our wheel bearings, they are a sealed type.
 
I might be missing something.

You can't repack our wheel bearings, they are a sealed type.

Good to know. I retract that recommendation then.
 
I am approaching 100k miles on my 2011.
I remember on my 100 90k was critical with timing belt and I did the waterbump and starter while I was in there.
200 is a different beast.
I've been fairly insane with regular maintenance. Switched from conventional oil to Mobil 1 at 30k and changed to 10k intervals. Oil is crystal clear.
Changed out diff and transfer case fluids to Amsoil severe gear fluid at 75k and installed Brian Jowett's magnets in diff cases.
I've changed brake pads twice.
Greased prop shafts every 10k.
Regularly change air and cabin filters.

So the big question is there anything major coming up that needs to get done?? Or am I missing anything.

Transmission is "lifetime" but I'm thinking about doing a filter, fluid swap even if it doesn't remove all the fluid.
Does anyone really change antifreeze, brake fluid??

Absolutely flush the cooling system, not just the radiator, and the brake fluid. I used to laugh when I read about people changing their fluid (like changing the air in your tires), then I took a long hard look at mine (albeit on my 80s). There was trash floating in the master cylinder(s)!

After having flushed all my 80s, my LX is next on the list (110k this past weekend).

You might also consider the AHC fluid, if you have the LX. It's hydraulic fluid, similar to the brake system, and like all hydraulic fluid, is hygroscopic and eventually eats system seals.
 
I am approaching 100k miles on my 2011.
I remember on my 100 90k was critical with timing belt and I did the waterbump and starter while I was in there.
200 is a different beast.
I've been fairly insane with regular maintenance. Switched from conventional oil to Mobil 1 at 30k and changed to 10k intervals. Oil is crystal clear.
Changed out diff and transfer case fluids to Amsoil severe gear fluid at 75k and installed Brian Jowett's magnets in diff cases.
I've changed brake pads twice.
Greased prop shafts every 10k.
Regularly change air and cabin filters.

So the big question is there anything major coming up that needs to get done?? Or am I missing anything.

Transmission is "lifetime" but I'm thinking about doing a filter, fluid swap even if it doesn't remove all the fluid.
Does anyone really change antifreeze, brake fluid??
changed my coolant at 58,000 just because. Brake fluid was good so did not, but planning on changing at 75,000. Change my oil at 5,000 religiously --even synthetic. I am just OCD.
 
changed my coolant at 58,000 just because. Brake fluid was good so did not, but planning on changing at 75,000. Change my oil at 5,000 religiously --even synthetic. I am just OCD.
I've been doing mine about every 6,000 miles. For those interested I did post my blackstone oil analysis around here. Short story is for more people you really could go 10,000 miles without worrying. Last summer I drove over 3,500 miles towing a 5000# trailer at 70+mph, and another 1,500 miles of solid stop-and-go city driving. Even still Blackstone said there were plenty of additives left and recommended waiting until 8,000 miles for my next oil change.

Not saying you shouldn't be OCD - I absolutely am, but so long as you're using a good 0W20 synthetic I highly suspect you'll get 300k miles out of a 3UR-FE with 10,000 mile oil changes.
 
All Good Info, you guys are keeping my busy for the next few weekends.
I think I'll use Toyota for the transflush and research Toyota vs Amsoil fluids. I know I have a case of Amsoil trans fluid leftover from the 100, don't know if it's compatible. I have a one person brake bleeder from the days when I had the M5 and an extra set of Centric Ceramic pad so that'll be an easy job.
Since you're all gearheads I hope you'll find this interesting. My Outboards have superchargers. Their belt is "lifetime." You do not want to be 100 miles offshore and lose a belt. I change mine every 300 hours and carry a spare on board.
 
CYA
 
Hello All,

I’m seeking a bit of advice.

I just rolled 100k on my 2013. I bought it certified used at 82k.

Maintenance history is good, it’s been back to a dealer at 5k intervals basically since new. Prior to sale fluids in the transfer case and diffs were changed.

I like to stay in front of issues.

I’ve had the coolant flushed and the AT fluids flushed and swapped.

As of now, I’m not aware of any warning signs 🤞🏻

So now that I’m 100k what additional maintenance should I do?

Are these recommended?

Starter
Water pump
Radiator
Brake fluid
Power steering fluid

If so, what ballpark should I expect to pay? (Most likely at a dealer)

I BOUGHT a Toyota financial services certified platinum service agreement which covers me until 130k, so that may factor in. Although, I assume I’d have to wait for a failure to use it.

Any thoughts and advice appreciated.

Thank you!
 
Dumb but easy... With a syringe and a piece of skinny tubing I suck out my power steering reservoir and refill each oil change. It’s so easy and if it’s only 1/4th of the fluid that means no fluid is older than 40k miles if you do 10k oil changes. I use whatever name-brand oil is the proper grade and on sale every 5k so my steering fluid is theoretically no older than 20k. It’s super cheap and can’t hurt.

Fresh fluid, IMHO, helps to keep hoses pliable and leak free.
 
Definitely PS fluid. Brake fluid can be tested, but it’s also relatively cheap/easy. I wouldn’t do the radiator until you see visible evidence of a crack.. then do the pump at the same time. Until then watch coolant level and once in a while look at the pump for white crust dripping down from the weep holes on the bearing housing.

To me starter would depend on how you use the truck. Lots of time in remote places? Do it. Basically always near a tow and service? Wait til it fails.
The problem is it is quite difficult (impossible without the somewhat rare but inexpensive tools) [edit: forgot this part] difficult to jump start without said tools. Two people needed, minimum.
 
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I have had my 2013 lx 570 purchased 2018 with 86,000 miles.

I am approaching 100,000 miles.

Ahc was flushed at 60,000 miles.

I have had radiator, water pump, thermostat, idler pulley, tensioner, serpentine belt, upper and lower hoses, pvc, transmission fluid, front/rear differential, oem windshield wipers and transfer case all changed out.

I use an independent mechanic. So, I am coming up on a oil change. Some of the discounted toyota parts dealerships have a free shipping promotion.

i will have brakes fluid flushed.

My brakes are oem and have already purchased pads. Shall I change out rotors, currently no vibrations at all. No extra labor costs to change out the rotors.

Is there anything that you guys think should be changed out.

This is a southern vehicle without any rust issues.

I have purchased oem starter when was discounted and I will order the list of parts for the starter change out that bloc listed.
 
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