FJ60 5.7l TBI to 5.3l LS Swap (2 Viewers)

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For my fuel system, I'm reusing a Tanks Inc in tank fuel pump kit that I installed a few years back for the TBI. I am firmly in the "no external fuel pumps for EFI" camp.

What I ended up doing was replacing the pump with a proper one, and converting the whole system to -6 AN. No more hard lines or hose clamps on the feed or return lines.

Out with the old...

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In with the new...

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For filtering, I'm using a 2002 Tahoe filter from a non E85 Flexfuel version. Adapted to -6 with some Russell adapters. These same adapters thread into the back of the GM power steering pumps for converting those to -6 AN as well.

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Made up some lines using Aeroquip Socketless hose and ends. A lot easier than traditional AN fittings. Dipping the hose in boiling water for a few minutes and lubing up the barbs with vaseline helped get them together.

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And getting the lines connected to the motor is a set of hard line to AN adapters. One for 5/16 and one for 3/8. I wanted to use as much of the hard line on the LS as possible as it has nice brackets and follows the transmission nicely and stays out of the way.

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Now that the fuel system is done, why not do a test fire?



That made me happy. It proved my wiring harness and fuel system. And that the junkyard motor actually runs. So, time to move on get more stuff complete so I can get back to driving this thing. I've missed it.

Next it was time to run some wires into the cab for the ALDL connector, check engine light, and brake switch for the transmission TCC unlock signal. This is how I do my check engine lights:

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Here's the new brake light switch with NO and NC terminals. I had to enlarge the hole under the dash so it would fit. Got it done with my "rigged" right angle "drill".

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Reusing my Champion radiator, and decided to replace the condenser while it was easy to do.

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Sometimes it's the little things that make you smile. The previous owner used a universal Autozone overflow bottle, which was crap, but I was able to get an original from the classifieds. It bolted right on just like it should. :)

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For cooling, I'm reusing my old setup which consisted of a Taurus 2 speed fan, an original FJ60 fan shroud, and a Volvo 2 speed cooling fan relay. Been doing this for a year or so now and it works awesome.

The plastic shroud the Taurus fan was mounted in didn't cover the radiator well, so I removed the fan motor, fabbed up a bracket to make it bolt into the FJ60 shroud, and called it done.

The relay can be found in the junkyard in certain Volvos (which use the same fan motor as the Taurus fan). You ground the 1 (Lo) or 2 (Hi) wire to engage the relay and run the fan. The LS ECM turns fans on the same way - by grounding the relay signal. So, I could use the ECM to control the fan, but I'm sticking to my switch in the cab for now. BTW, grounding the Hi wire overrides the Lo wire, so they can be grounded at the same time.

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Lower radiator hose is from a 2000 Ford Explorer 5.0L. It's the Explorers upper hose. Common part numbers are GATES 22310 and DAYCO 71903. Have to trim some of the radiator side off, but other than that, it's a near perfect fit.

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And then I can stab in the fan.

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Heater hoses. Ran them next to the intake to hide them under the engine cover a bit.

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So, I've seen quite a few LS swaps on this forum and other places, and everyone seems to complain about it running hot with stock radiators and different cooling fans. Be sure that your heater ports on the water pump complete a loop, even with the heater off. Why? The thermostat won't operate correctly without the loop, and the water will cavitate in your pump and not move the water like it should.

Solution? Use an "H" pipe. I build mine from plumbing parts (proof of concept), but there are OEM parts you can get that do the same thing. You can make it out in the picture above, down by the water pump ports. Your heater core will still get hot in the winter using an H pipe.

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Eventually I will replace it with an OEM GM part. ACDelco 15-5675 "Heater valve". It's out of a 2000-2002 Chevy Cavalier.

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Upper radiator hose. My motor came with the original hose from the junkyard, so I used it to mockup how I want it route, then I went and bought a new one from a 2002 Tahoe. The radiator end is the same radiator end as the Tahoe hose, but I had to stretch it a bit over the radiator. The water pump end is the same as the water pump end of the Tahoe hose.I removed a foot or so in the middle.

The connector in the middle is a Mishimoto Water Temperature Sensor Adapter (34mm). There's an 1/4 barb on the bottom, and the steam port hose is connected to that.

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I wired up the battery connections and grounds. Didn't have to buy any wires, as I made sure the junkyard kept them all attached to the motor when they pulled it. Had more than enough. :)

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Then it was time to figure out how bad the front driveshaft clearance was going to be. It was closer that I expected, but I still needed to modify the pan. I chose the "beat it until it fits" method first. :) Later I may cut and weld it with more angle in it, but it starts getting into the filter area. More than likely I will need to get another driveshaft made with smaller tubing. My current shaft is a stock one that has been made longer for my older swap.

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It's tight around the corner of the pan at the tcase output, but it should be fine as long as the ujoint doesn't grenade (doubtful with the way I wheel).

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For the intake hose, it was mandatory that the snorkel be connected. Why have it if it's not functional? When I bought the cruiser, the PO didn't have the flexible hose that goes inside the fender, so it was purely a "poser snorkel" for a long time.

I got a box of silicone couplers and T clamps from siliconeintakes.com. Gives it that racecar tuner look. :)

Starting at the throttle body, it's a 4" 90 degree elbow.

Then a 4" aluminum tube with a 45 degree bend in it. This was to clear the radiator hose.

Next is a 4" to 3.5" reducer to the MAF sensor. The 3.5" side has to be compressed a bit since it's a loose fit.

From the other side of the MAF it's a 4" to 3" reducer.

And finally the air cleaner. It's an inline, sealed, conical unit made by Spectre. It has 3" in and out, which matches the snorkel hose, which is attached on the other end.

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Later I would like to use a FJ62 air cleaner assembly with a modified lid for the MAF. I'm not a fan of the inline air cleaner, but it works for now. And by "for now", I mean street driving duty.

Overhead shot of it mostly complete. It got rained on the night before it headed to the muffler shop while it was loaded on the trailer. I didn't have adequate help for the hood yet.

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Before I could do any test drives, I had to get the exhaust done. There's a great shop near us that is owned by a Land Cruiser guy called Arkansas Performance Exhaust or APE for short. I dropped it off on a Wednesday morning and Jason had it done by Friday afternoon.

Went with 2.5" from the manifolds back to a Y pipe. Then it went to 3" into a 24" Magnaflow, and then 3" out the back. All the piping from the previous motor was 2.25", so this was a big improvement. I never realized how choked up the other motor was.

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First time towing this heavy of a load with my Sequoia. It handled it pretty well. I wouldn't want to tow this heavy all the time with it. I worry about the IRS rearend and towing.

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I chose to drop under the trans right in front of the tcase to join to the driver side. I've studied most of the swaps on here, and I wasn't a fan of going higher above the tcase due to heat concerns. This crossover clears the driveshaft no problem, lets me remove it if needed, and doesn't hang any lower than the tcase or the crossmember. The downside is that it blocks the transmission and I can't get the pan off easily. I had APE put in a junction just after the Y pipe so I could drop the pipes down for servicing.

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One of the last pieces of the puzzle was to get the A/C system working again.

I took my old lines that I had made notes on regarding length and orientation to a local hose shop and had some new ones made. I ended up keeping the original ends at the condenser, and the #6 ends that go from the firewall to the dryer.

I also picked up a set of adapters on Ebay that convert the ports on the compressor to standard #8 and #10 fittings. Doing this eliminated the need for special GM specific ends. Although I could have just snagged some from the junkyard and had them braised on. I like the adapters better.

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I picked up a new engine cover from Ebay, and with that installed, the swap is COMPLETE!

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Now that I have exhaust and all the fluids bled and topped off, it's test drive time. First impression is that the 5.3 has lots of power. I couldn't stop grinning ear to ear the first day or two. :)

But with any swap, and especially one with unknown junkyard parts, the issues and troubleshooting begins about 10 miles after the first drive.

- The front pump seal in the 4L60E leaked pretty good for the first 20 miles or so, but since has stopped. Not sure what happened there other than maybe a dry seal or something.

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- The power steering pump is noisy and weak. Going to have to replace that.

- The ECM was throwing a MAF code. It's a brand new MAF sensor, and the ECM is seeing that it does work, just not in parameters.

- The transmission won't hold 4th/overdrive at speeds above 50 MPH for some reason. It's got a new filter and brand new fluid in it. All other gears are fine and it shifts great. I'm still debugging this one. I hope its just a leaky valve or solenoid somewhere in the valve body, and not a leak in the apply pistons. I don't want to pull the trans, but I have a shop in mind that can do a rebuild if I need one done.

- The shop I talked to said that my MAF code is probably the cause, since the MAF senses engine load, which commands the trans shift points and line pressure. I moved the MAF sensor to be close to the throttle body and far away from the air filter, and now the code is gone, and the shift points are different for sure. It's not as harsh during the 1-2 shift. BUT.... it still won't hold 4th/overdrive. :(

- The FJ60 tach isn't working. I connected the wire from the ECM to the tach wire in the FJ60 harness, but still nothing. I'm tempting to try this: Tach wiring for 99+ Vortec/LS1 , but I might just get the Dakota Digital converter (Dakota Digital Universal Tachometer Signal Interfaces SGI-8E) and be done with it.

- I can't pull a vacuum on the A/C system. The only major component that I didn't replace was the compressor. I want to try and use it. I can't find the leak, so I will probably table this for now as it's getting cooler and heading into Fall.

- The ECM is throwing a knock sensor code. I knew I should have replaced them when I had the intake manifold off way back when I did my prep work, but I told myself "It'll be fine". Guess I get to pull it apart again.

- I still need to hook up my reverse lights. I have the wire from the 4L60E MLPS extracted and ready for connecting to the FJ60 harness. I just need to source a relay since the MLPS outputs 12v+ (instead of grounding) and I don't want to run the lights off the transmission fuse.

- Front driveshaft still hits the trans pan, just barely. Need to price a new, skinny shaft.
 
Regardless of the above issues, I am back to daily driving it. It has much better power than the 350 TBI did. I'm very pleased with the swap, even with the issues I need to address.

Engine temps are hovering around 194-196 F. I don't think I've crested 200 yet, but I haven't driven it in 90+ temps yet, or ran the A/C. I don't expect to get much hotter than 200-210 in the heat of summer with the A/C running. The aluminum radiator, Taurus fan, and heater bypass hose are all working great.

Gas mileage will be ignored for a while since the MAF sensor code threw things off, the knock sensor code is throwing things off, and the trans won't stay in 4th/overdrive. Once those are corrected, I plan to do a decent road trip and see how it does.
 
And now for the answers to the questions every one wants to know: how much did it cost and how long did it take?

I spent $5500 including the motor and trans. This number will climb a bit as I fix the issues.

I have 100 hours in labor (counting help from others). Not including time sitting at a computer researching things or buying parts.

I bought the motor and trans on Memorial Day weekend, spent the month of June researching and procuring parts, and the hood came off right after the 4th of July. Spent all of July and August completing the swap, and did the first test drive right at the end of August.
 
Good looking work. Always impressed with people who have patience.
 
The gas pedal solution was brilliant. I lowered mine and it's still too high. I'm going to do what you did.
 

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