Reman FJ60 Alternator in SLC? (1 Viewer)

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Boulder, CO
Currently stuck in SLC for the past few days with a dead alternator. I'm wired up for the 55A internally regulated one.

The regular auto parts chains have been unable to help, despite listing them as available on various websites.

Does anyone know where I can get a nice one local or other options?
 
Cruiser Oitfitters in Sandy Utah. He will have what you need...or be able to get it for you. Not a big deal.
 
Order an alternator for a 3FE (1987-93 ish) Land Cruiser and make an adapter harness, when you get home buy @Coolerman 's adapter harness (~$20 shipped)!

Here's the reference: FJ60 alternator upgrade

Just did this on my truck, too. There is a mention of it in my build thread, it's a nice upgrade.
 
The 90 amp alternator was only used on the 91-92 FJ80s as an upgrade option and do require different upper and lower mounting brackets compared to the more commonly found 80 amp alternator. Some people have modified the 90 amp housing to work with the 80 amp mounts, but that has its pitfalls.
Be careful not to buy the 90 amp alternator. On Rockauto it seems that they mostly have the 90 amp as opposed to the 80 amp which will fit.
 
Yeah I'm going for an OEM Toyota 80 amp from the early 3FE, with the external fan.

Appreciate the info though, I was wondering if the 90 amp internal fan would fit, but I couldn't find any info on it so I was guessing not easily.
 
Bolted up a Genuine Toyota 62 series alternator (27060-61090-84) yesterday with some 1/4" spade connectors for a quick "harness". Was able to use the fan and pulley from the original alternator - the fan is damn close to the alternator housing, but it clears (and clears the adjustment bracket).

My fusible link gets pretty hot with charging from the new alternator - will look into adding some relief for that soon.

@Coolerman has my harness pigtail on the way so I can convert to the 3FE alternator connector and get rid of my spade connector adapter.

mud getting me out of a bind as usual. :clap:
 
So I've been wired up with @Coolerman's bit for a while now.

Seems to work pretty well. No more long cranking starts, and you know, actually charges the battery - but my voltage never really seems to go much above 12.5ish on the dash? It will creep up towards 14 if I'm on a long drive (> 1 hour), but is usually pretty low. Worried that I'm not getting the full benefit of the AGM YellowTop that I treated it to.

Is this because the sense is just jumped over to ignition right at the alternator? Could a bad fusible link contribute? Mine looks pretty janky....need to send it out for a rebuild too.

P.S. this is in no way a complaint against Mark's harness product. It's great quality and functions electrically the same as the temporary adapter that I rigged up before his arrived. Awesome that I now have the right electrical connector on my harness.
 
Yeah, would be open to hearing more input on this.

From what I understand the alternator is not providing enough current since the sense/S lead is connected right at the alternator.

Most AGMs won't completely charge unless you're above 13.5ish, which is what I want to avoid. It's not a problem now but eventually I'd like to add lights/winch/fridge/etc., and be fairly comfortable about using power while parked.

So....options seem to be:
-not worrying about it
-extending the sense/S lead further back into the harness (locations?)
-or adding a resistor to hamstring the current at the alternator and make it pump out a tad more (appropriate resistor spec?)

Open to suggestions on how to do either of the second two in a safe manner.
 
I think the right fix is to put the S wire in a place where you'll get the alternator to charge the way it's supposed to. I suggest running it to the ignition side of the coil - it's easy to access in the engine bay so wiring should be simple and clean.

The stock voltage gauge is hard to read from - suggest you use a multi-meter to measure voltage. Do it at idle and at 2K rpm, both w and w/out loads (lights/fans).

I have a FAQ post about running a heavier gauge wire from the alt to the battery. This will help get minimize voltage drop through the old wiring harness. Just make sure to fuse the heavier gauge wire to 100 amps. This is not a substitute for getting the S wire in the right place, get that dialed first.
 
@lovetoski, you don't mean run the S wire to the center output from coil to distributor, right? Just the (+) wire on top of coil.
 

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