1993 LS Swap (6.0L LQ4 and built 4L60e) (1 Viewer)

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Good info here, I'm in the process of doing an '03 LQ4 with 4l80E in my '97.

Did yours have engine oil cooling lines running to the rad? Mine has lines that ran to the rad and I'm trying to figure out what I should do with them.

Does anyone know if the shifter gates for 4l60 and 4l80 are the same?
 
steve604 said:
Good info here, I'm in the process of doing an '03 LQ4 with 4l80E in my '97.

Did yours have engine oil cooling lines running to the rad? Mine has lines that ran to the rad and I'm trying to figure out what I should do with them.

Does anyone know if the shifter gates for 4l60 and 4l80 are the same?
Click to expand...

Are you referring to the LS or the toyo engine? Neither my LS nor the toyo engine had oil lines running to the radiator. The Toyo transmission fluid did run through the radiator before running to its own finned cooler. I kept the same plumbing on the 4L60.

I do not know about the shifter gates, but it shouldn't matter too much. The cables all have adjustment in them that should allow you to compensate for any differences. I'd order that trailer blazer cable from your local auto parts store and test fit it. You can always return it.
 
The factory chevy rad had an oil cooler with lines running from just above the oil filter. I see now that everyone just blocks those cooler ports off.
 
AT+Oil Coolers.PNG


Not the best pic, (sorry, clipped from a video I posted elsewhere in the forum)

The AT cooler on the right is the OEM Toyota cooler. The lines route from the Chevy AT into the bottom of the OEM Toyota radiator on the PS, then out the DS to this cooler. The cooler on the left is an aftermarket oil cooler, and has lines directly from the Chevy engine.

(the paper clip at the bottom is the OEM power steering cooler)
 
aktundra said:
View attachment 1522415

Not the best pic, (sorry, clipped from a video I posted elsewhere in the forum)

The AT cooler on the right is the OEM Toyota cooler. The lines route from the Chevy AT into the bottom of the OEM Toyota radiator on the PS, then out the DS to this cooler. The cooler on the left is an aftermarket oil cooler, and has lines directly from the Chevy engine.

(the paper clip at the bottom is the OEM power steering cooler)
Click to expand...

Nice, I dig the engine oil cooler. Definitely something I considered since I'm running the F-body oil pan and only have 6 quart capacity. I don't think I'll be running it quite that hard to need one though.
 
Been a while since I've posted. I've been busy moving and the land cruiser just got unloaded from the 18 wheeler today.

Update since I've put 250 miles on the swap...

First and foremost, the power steering pump was bad on my engine which meant I had to tear the whole front end off and replace it with a new unit. It took a while to figure out what all the noise (whining) was about, eventually used a wooden dowel as a redneck stethoscope to track down the noise. On the bright side, I've gotten quite quick at taking the front end apart and putting it back together.

Something I learned in this process is that for GM trucks with hydaboost pumps one should use the lower return port on the pump, NOT THE UPPER LIKE I DID.

Noisy Power Steering Pump - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion

In the end, I don't think this was my issue. I believe the pump was just shot for some other reason but I couldn't even test the return port option because I had sawed my lower port off earlier in the build.

CURRENT ISSUES:

  1. No speedometer or center differential lock - I assume this has something to do with my wiring although I'm somewhat at a loss for trying to track down where the issue is. Any ideas on this? Has anyone every experienced this with their swap?
  2. The transfer case gear lever is rubbing on the plastic center console and making a racket. Hopefully I can fix this by loosening all the bolts on the adapter plate and the lever and moving it over. Otherwise I'm going to need to trim the plastic.
  3. My really jerryrig temp sender isn't really reading correctly. It eventually gets to medium temperature, but way after the engine is already warmed up. I just don't think there is enough coolant flow getting up in there. I think I will have to get the toyo sender machined down as I can't for the life find and adapter that makes this conversion.
  4. The gas tank is consistently reading 1/8 - 1/4 lower than it is. I assume I messed something up (maybe bent something) with the sender when I had everything out? I need to search Mud for this issue.
I know there is a bunch missing in this write up which I will go back and detail but, getting this sorted is #1 priority

Bonus Pictures

IMG_0037.JPG


IMG_0081.JPG


IMG_0285.5.jpg
 
Consider an in line bung in the upper radiator hose. Several diameters and thread patterns on line

Accurate reading, however nothing registers until the thermostat opens
 
aktundra said:
Consider an in line bung in the upper radiator hose. Several diameters and thread patterns on line

Accurate reading, however nothing registers until the thermostat opens
Click to expand...

Good suggestion, I've seen those and there is an easy place to add one inline on my radiator plumbing.
 
Sub’d.
 
eplazajennings said:
Ran into a little issue in preparation for test fitting my engine. I noticed after I had torqued up my Hooker Headers (PN 2312HKR) that they didn't look super flush with the heads. I decided to be cautious and pull them off again and investigate. Thank god I did. Upon inspection, the tolerances on the headers were so off that they weren't making uniform good seals with the gaskets. As you can see from the photos, the imprint of the rings just isn't there in certain sections. I'm currently waiting to hear back from Hooker, but it hasn't been the best customer service interaction to date. They are very concerned that I bought the headers a year ago and have only got around to installing them now - not sure how that is particularly relevant, but we shall see. Hopefully they send me a replacement set. Either that or I'm going to have to take them somewhere to be re-surfaced for $50-75. Hopefully this get resolved soon...

UPDATE- Hooker is sending me a new set of headers free of charge- very nice of them. Apparently they changed the way the headers are designed and no longer use the raised flanges around the exhaust ports on the heads and are now flat planed all the way across the header. I'll post pictures of the new headers below.
cleardot.gif


View attachment 1398518

View attachment 1398519

View attachment 1398521

View attachment 1398522
Click to expand...
I'm about to order these headers from Summit, do I need to do anything to avoid what you had do deal with in getting Hooker to replace them?
 
Pulled these from old Notes. I ended up keeping the sock. Center dump, rear dump both have figment issues to resolve. So can’t vouch for either one. But I bet you could use these parts as key words and pull up the build thread with a search for more background.

Hooker Headers 2313HKR - Hooker Super Competition Block Hugger

Hooker HKR 8501HKR LS manifolds Holley Performance Products GM LS (except LS7 & LS9) Exhaust Manifold - Raw Finish*8501HKR
 
Glad to see the update, I pulled my drivetrain out of my 80 this weekend and will be going the same route... LQ4 4L80E Marks adapter to H2FA... keep the updates coming!!
 
Str8Razor said:
Glad to see the update, I pulled my drivetrain out of my 80 this weekend and will be going the same route... LQ4 4L80E Marks adapter to H2FA... keep the updates coming!!
Click to expand...

Got a build thread?
 
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