Rebuilt Axle - Now Won't Steer (1 Viewer)

[fuzzywuzzy]

OK - so here's the battle plan:

• getting the rig up on stands and check right to left clearance and make sure there's no binding.
• assuming no binding check stops on knuckle housing.
• upper trunion shims - fxxx..no clue on where to start with those other than check current tightness with torque wrench.

How many rotations should I get from full lock left to full lock right?

 

[fuzzywuzzy]

Didn't have time to fully tear in but here's some more info. I have about 3/4 rotation each way from center. Wondering if I didn't get the axles into the cv's as far as was necessary when rebuilding, they didn't seem as floppy after rebuild as when I pulled them out. Here's a couple pics of the axle-ends and a video.

 

[fuzzywuzzy]

Video link.

 

[jvazquez53]

Something is definitely not right!!! Looks like the problem is in the tie rod ends. Did you put them exactly the same way as the older ones?

 

[fuzzywuzzy]

The steering arms were removed from the tie rod ends, I wondering how they could be reinstalled wrong, there's really only one way they go back on. Tie rod ends were not replaced.

 

[Tools R Us]

Check your clocking on the tie rod clamps. It's important to point the right way or it will bind.

This, have you checked it?
Alignment Setting Toe

 

[2fpower]

pop off the drag link and determine what side is binding. The start tearing it down. Seems like it has to be trunnion. Did you set the preload of the trunion bearing as the FSM recommended?

 

[fuzzywuzzy]

Frankly at this point I'm feeling a little overwhelmed and don't know where to start. Vehicle was fine before I tore it down, during rebuild process I was forced to purchase new knuckle housings for each side. Re-used shims but I have a few replacement shims and in a couple thicknesses from the kit I got from Spectre. @Tools R Us - I might have an issue with the tie rod clamps. will have to check when I get home tonight.

@2fpower - likely not as I don't have a clue what you're referring to, are you talking about the upper and lower shims or...

Just so were're all on the same page and to make sure I'm not using the wrong language:

The birfield attaches the the axle and the birfield sits in the inner housing, the races and bearings that sit at the top and bottom of the housing, those are the trunnion bearnings, right?

I did the thing where I tightened and loosened the adjuster nut 3-4 times before putting on the star tab and other nut, outer nut was not super tight but inner was medium tight (yes, I know I should have used a torque wrench).

 

[bajaphile]

The tie rod clamps, on the tie rod (bar that connects behind the rear of the axle that links the two knuckles together to steer) are right there and can be seen by just looking underneath the truck. The clamps just hold tension on the rod ends so that the tie rods don't spin. If you did 1 side at a time, you probably didn't mess this up. But it is worth checking.

I think the pre-load on the trunion bearings (yes, which dictate your steering axis which are the small bearings which sit on the top/bottom of the knuckle) is set by the shims. Usually when people do this job they aren't replacing the knuckle housings as you did. I wonder if there is an issue that the old shims are creating a higher preload with your new knuckles. Do you have an FSM handy to check this? (I don't and can't recall what the instructions are for setting it).

Your axle nut won't be the cause of the issues you are having. However, you should really buy a torque wrench (a 1/2" drive click type one from Amazon would be sufficient).

 

[fuzzywuzzy]

I don't have an FSM, gonna have to bite the bullet and buy one (unless anyone knows where to find a soft copy of the 91, cough cough).

The shims on the old and new looked to be the same thickness, super thin, one on each side.

I do have a torque wrench but screwed something up on the setting of it which is the reason passenger knuckle was replaced, over-torqued and stripped one of the upper trunion bolts.

 

[Tools R Us]

I don't have an FSM ...

For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

The shims on the old and new looked to be the same thickness, super thin, one on each side.

The shims only set bearing preload, don't see how that could cause your problem. Too small of a shim will make the knuckle tight to turn, too much shim will make it floppy, should not effect amount of turn angle.

I do have a torque wrench but screwed something up on the setting of it which is the reason passenger knuckle was replaced, over-torqued and stripped one of the upper trunion bolts.

Even a Harbor Freight one is better than guessing. Click type ones need to be turned to lowest, spring relaxed setting, after use, or will be out of calibration.

 

[LINUS]

Check your steering stops.

The one on that new knuckle looks like it's a easy few threads further out than the other side from the jamb nut.

If it steers "normal" to one side (turning left I think), but right turns are the issue then you need to adjust that new knuckle's steer stop.

You might have to adjust both if you pulled the bolt & nut from the old knuckle when you cleaned it. All my 80's have blurred together, but seems like 6-8 threads max is what shows on my 4" lift / 315's & I don't rub the fronts ever.

 

[fuzzywuzzy]

@LINUS - I looked yesterday and both ways are limited to about 3/4 turn from center - neither side is getting far enough to hit stops.

 

[LINUS]

So when you hit the 'limit' of your articulate now, is it a solid stop, or more like a bind that feels like if you go further, something is going to co$t you?

Can you get a wife/kid/buddy to run the wheel side to side while you're down there listening to the axle?

If you did that, what came of it?

 

[fuzzywuzzy]

I can't help but think (and hope) that it's the tie rod. I had the wheels turned lock to lock in the video, 9 year old son was turning wheel so he couldn't push on the binding much. There's some buzzing from a ground behind the dash so you can't hear if there's anything creaking down there.

 

[customcruiser]

With both tires off the ground and steering wheel unlocked, disconnect your tie rod (knuckle to knuckle rod behind axle) from the PS knuckle then by hand move each side from stop to stop.

You will either find one side binding which means you will have to tear that side down again and see whats up.

Or if both sides move freely you have an issue with the tie rod or drag link hitting something.

One other thing to check is did you put the PS steering arm on backwards... I just did this rebuild too and it took me a second to make sure that was correct. Not sure you can put it on backwards and in your pics it looks correct but make sure the tie rod is level with the axle and not higher on the PS.

I can see in your video/pics that the wipes have cleaned more of the axle than you're getting movement so my guess is it's in your steering or tie rod.

 

[2fpower]

@LINUS watch his video above.

 

[2fpower]

With both tires off the ground and steering wheel unlocked, disconnect your tie rod (knuckle to knuckle rod behind axle) from the PS knuckle then by hand move each side from stop to stop.

You will either find one side binding which means you will have to tear that side down again and see whats up.

Or if both sides move freely you have an issue with the tie rod or drag link hitting something.

One other thing to check is did you put the PS steering arm on backwards... I just did this rebuild too and it took me a second to make sure that was correct. Not sure you can put it on backwards and in your pics it looks correct but make sure the tie rod is level with the axle and not higher on the PS.

I can see in your video/pics that the wipes have cleaned more of the axle than you're getting movement so my guess is it's in your steering or tie rod.

What he said. I typed drag link but meant tie rod. put the axle up on jack stands. Take off one side of the tie rod, ( the rod with tie rod ends sitting behind the axle connecting the two steering arms), then you should be able to move one side by hand, and the other with the steering wheel.

This will let you know what side is causing issues.

FSM is free digitally, follow the link that @Tools R Us sent. It is the Toyota bible, trust and believe it the words written.

Finally, a word of encouragement. one of my favorite quotes...

I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work. Thomas A. Edison

 

[LINUS]

Just saw video - wow.

I'd pop off the bearing cups / drive plates & see if threading in a bolt to the birf end if you get it to slide out too much & confirm not having driven it into the inner shafts on one or both sides.

 

[fuzzywuzzy]

@LINUS - Did that to get snap-ring on and they barely clear the end of the spindle. So if that's my only reference then they're in all the way.