Builds Box Rocket 1980 1st Gen Hilux (1 Viewer)

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You don't need IFS hubs, just FJ60 rotors and IFS truck calipers. My test fitting showed the backing plate will just need a little trimming. My aftermarket 15" wheels fit, and my spare set of 80 wheels would work if it wasn't for the steering arm.
 
This is a very common upgrade, sorry I thought everybody knew about it now. There's lots of write-ups out there. Yup, '87 FJ60 rotors, V6-era calipers.
 
Vented rotors did not come until later so solid rotors are correct for this truck. Thickness could be in question howeever.

These rotors attach to the hubs with 6 bolts
Vented rotors started with IFS. But I can't figure out why anybody would put solid rotors back on.

I'm very aware of this. The vented rotors commonly used when doing this swap are from a FJ60 (or late FJ40). Those rotors look way too thick to be factory replacement, IF you were looking to use the solid rotors.

I missed someplace what calipers you are using.
 
Here's the measurement on my '82 with worn rotors.

20170724_071344.jpg


I'm curious why you didn't also make this upgrade. Heavy Duty Knuckle Gusset Kit | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
It was recommended to me as maybe more important than even the axle truss.
 
I was also comparing where your rotors sit in relationship to the backing plate, and it looks the same.

Do you want the Napa part numbers? I went with premium stuff.
 
I was also comparing where your rotors sit in relationship to the backing plate, and it looks the same.

Do you want the Napa part numbers? I went with premium stuff.
Thanks. I found the Napa premium parts. Looks like a good upgrade.
 
Thanks. I found the Napa premium parts. Looks like a good upgrade.

Good to see this upgrade was figured out. Its definitely the way to go on these trucks. I'd look at the FJ80 master cylinder as an upgrade and ensure the booster is working appropriately too. This will be a much better system with the upgraded rotors and calipers.
 
Haven't had much time to work on the truck for a few weeks but finally got a couple hours this week to get the front spring hangers welded in and the truck back on all four tires. I'm using the Low Range Offroad low profile front spring hanger which keeps the spring eyes is just about the same location as stock. Still running stock front shackles. 3" Trail Gear front springs. The rear, as you know, is 63" Chevy springs using the LowRange kit with new hangers, shackle hangers and shackles. From everything I had researched the rear Chevy setup would net anywhere between 3-4" of lift so it sounded like a perfect match for the 3" TG front springs.
Well, with the front back on it's own weight I'm sitting about 1.5-2" lower in the rear. I'm sure there will be a little settling of the front springs as they get broken in but I doubt it will be enough to really level things out. So now I'm looking at options for addressing the difference in height front to rear.

Option1: add a 1" rear lift block. Least desirable option, but probably easiest. Would require addition of a trackbar.

Option2: Longer rear shackles. They would need to be substantially longer (probably 4" longer than current ones) to get the correct amount of lift. Would likely require relocation of shackle hangers.

Option3: Remove a leaf from the front springs. Unknown result in lift height until it's done and still might not be enough. Will change spring rate (could be good or bad).

Anyone have suggestions?


*yes the steering is not hooked up. Working on power steering and highsteer swap*


 
Option1: add a 1" rear lift block. Least desirable option, but probably easiest. Would require addition of a trackbar.

Option2: Longer rear shackles. They would need to be substantially longer (probably 4" longer than current ones) to get the correct amount of lift. Would likely require relocation of shackle hangers.

Option3: Remove a leaf from the front springs. Unknown result in lift height until it's done and still might not be enough. Will change spring rate (could be good or bad).

Anyone have suggestions?





I had a similar issue when I SASd my Tacoma,

I ended up pilling two leafs from the front pack which had it sitting almost level, I wanted it slightly ass high to be level when loaded with gear. I then added a "zero-rate add a leaf" which is essentially a 1" block with a the ability to bolt it to the pack. seems safer in my mind?

Add a Leafs, Zero Rate for 4x4 Suspensions from Offroad Design

This has been a great setup for me........BUT my it's not my DD. and NO WAY!! I would to put my kid in in going to school everyday. The front springs are just too soft.



Recently I pulled the front Axle and put in a diamond and went with a set of these for the perches

U bolt Eliminator Perch Kit

They're actually about .75" higher then the stock perches I had on the 85 housing which kicked my front end up again,


These with the zero rate might get you right where you want to be?? Then if the front settles more then expected in the front you can pull the zero rate

Hope this helps, Truck is looking great!!

Hope to have a project like this with my kids one day

Rubicon 15 copy.png
 
Option1: add a 1" rear lift block. Least desirable option, but probably easiest. Would require addition of a trackbar.

Option2: Longer rear shackles. They would need to be substantially longer (probably 4" longer than current ones) to get the correct amount of lift. Would likely require relocation of shackle hangers.

Option3: Remove a leaf from the front springs. Unknown result in lift height until it's done and still might not be enough. Will change spring rate (could be good or bad).

Anyone have suggestions?





I had a similar issue when I SASd my Tacoma,

I ended up pilling two leafs from the front pack which had it sitting almost level, I wanted it slightly ass high to be level when loaded with gear I added a "zero-rate add a leaf" which is essentially a 1" block with a the ability to bolt it to the pack. seems safer in my mind?

Add a Leafs, Zero Rate for 4x4 Suspensions from Offroad Design

This has been a great setup for me........BUT my it's not my DD. and NO WAY!! I would to put my kid in in going to school everyday. The front springs are just too soft.



Recently I pulled the front Axle and put in a diamond and went with a set of these for the perches

U bolt Eliminator Perch Kit

They're actually about 1" higher then the stock perches I had on the 85 housing which kicked my front end up again,


These with the zero rate might get you right where you want to be?? Then if the front settles more then expected in the front you can pull the zero rate

Hope this helps

View attachment 1519463
Thanks for the insight. Pulling leaves from the front is not what I'd like to do. I need the rig to be streetable so keeping it stable and safe is key. I don't think I want to mess with the front, but just get the rear up a bit. The add-a-leaf is not a bad option and the more I think about it could be the smartest move for a number of reasons. The Chevy springs are pretty soft as is. An extra leaf could help not only with the height but make the rear end a bit more stable. Might affect the ride a bit but shouldn't be too bad. If this truck were being built as a dedicated crawler I'd look at this very differently. I just need it to be a good all-around truck that can be daily driven and still have fun on the trail. I don't think we're too far off.
 
Thanks for the insight. Pulling leaves from the front is not what I'd like to do. I need the rig to be streetable so keeping it stable and safe is key. I don't think I want to mess with the front, but just get the rear up a bit. The add-a-leaf is not a bad option and the more I think about it could be the smartest move for a number of reasons. The Chevy springs are pretty soft as is. An extra leaf could help not only with the height but make the rear end a bit more stable. Might affect the ride a bit but shouldn't be too bad. If this truck were being built as a dedicated crawler I'd look at this very differently. I just need it to be a good all-around truck that can be daily driven and still have fun on the trail. I don't think we're too far off.


I agree, safety is most important

I come from the school where a truck should be a little stiff and bouncy,

The zero-rate one wont change the ride at all, but a classic add-a-leaf or even an overload leaf would be a good option too. all are a quick, cheap, safe fix.
 
Doing more work on the steering. Frame is all cleaned up with all the unnecessary stuff cut off. Highsteer arms on installed. Working on getting the steering box mounted with new frame plates. Gonna be nice to finally have power steering on this truck.




 
whoa just now power steering!
Yep. But the truck hasn't been used that much since I've had it. It's been in various states of "rebuild" most of the time so we haven't had to suffer without power steering much.
 
I would inspect all the lines before installing. It isn't fun to be out wheeling and have your line blow out on you.
 
I would inspect all the lines before installing. It isn't fun to be out wheeling and have your line blow out on you.
Lines have been inspected. So far everything looks good. They were in excellent shape when they came off the donor truck from a friend.
 

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