Help! My work LC almost didn't make it home tonight! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter HiFiGuy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Follow up: I found that the Denso 210-0281 seems to be a proper fit according to Amazon. It's an 80A remanufactured unit. Two other sites, Advance Auto and Parts Geek, both show that the Denso 210-0565 also fits, and it's a 100A. Amazon shows that as not fitting. Any insight from the gallery here? I need to place an order ASAP so I can get her back on the road.
BTW, Rock Auto shows the 210-0281 as the only Denso unit they offer, too.
BTW, Rock Auto shows the 210-0281 as the only Denso unit they offer, too.
0565 (100 amp) fit my 99 LX470 just fine.
Can't imagine why it wouldn't work (be correct) for your L/C
Can't imagine why it wouldn't work (be correct) for your L/C
- Thread starter
- #25
Update:
Spoke to the good folks at Slee Off-Road, actually intended to purchase their recommendation from them, but apparently they don't sell alternators. They suggested sticking either with a new Toyota alternator, or a re-manufactured Toyota alternator, and suggested not getting alternatives, including the Denso, if possible, because they are not built (or re-built) to the same standards as the factory units. According to three dealers I called in two states, my VIN indicated I might have either an 80A or a 100A. No way to tell without the label on the unit. I had the alternator pulled, and it is the 100A unit, so I ordered a re-manufactured 100A Toyota alternator from the local dealer, which I will pick up tomorrow AM. I think it'll be on by lunch, and hopefully this will end the saga.
Spoke to the good folks at Slee Off-Road, actually intended to purchase their recommendation from them, but apparently they don't sell alternators. They suggested sticking either with a new Toyota alternator, or a re-manufactured Toyota alternator, and suggested not getting alternatives, including the Denso, if possible, because they are not built (or re-built) to the same standards as the factory units. According to three dealers I called in two states, my VIN indicated I might have either an 80A or a 100A. No way to tell without the label on the unit. I had the alternator pulled, and it is the 100A unit, so I ordered a re-manufactured 100A Toyota alternator from the local dealer, which I will pick up tomorrow AM. I think it'll be on by lunch, and hopefully this will end the saga.
- Thread starter
- #27
Thank you for the kind words, but apparently I spoke too soon! Got the alternator installed yesterday afternoon, drove home from the shop, seemingly no problems. Battery was fully charged at the shop before the alternator was installed, per the tech. Today, I drove across the bay to an appointment, and before I even got there, it was acting up again. Same symptoms. Took a voltage measurement, 13.1VDC with ignition off. 13.56VDC with truck running at 2k RPM. Better than Saturday, but I sort of expected a higher running voltage, closer to 14.1-14.2.
Took LC to Advance Auto to get a battery/charging system test, and the battery that was new as of this past Saturday afternoon showed to be in need of replacement for some reason. Remember, I did have to drive it back home with that battery, but with a bad/dead alternator, so I don't know what might have happened, if anything, during the return trip.
Put in brand new AGM Platinum Advance Auto battery, larger size, and repeated the entire battery/charging system test again, this time with a full passing grade. It is charging on an AGM-specific charger now. l let sit overnight and test again tomorrow.
So now I have a new Toyota (rebuilt) alternator, a new fuel filter, and a new AGM battery. My tech seems to think it might be the ignition switch assembly, not the key cylinder, but the part just past that, and has replaced a few in similar LCs with positive results. Does that seem likely? I wonder if it's not the ECU. Could be the fuel pump, per earlier posts, but the engine bay fuel filter itself certainly could have gone another 300k miles based on its condition. It looked clean inside and flowed very well when we removed and tested it. Doesn't mean it's not the pump, but it certainly wasn't fighting a clogged filter, at least not the one in the engine bay.
Any more thoughts, with the new data?
EDIT: I have a new fuel filter, not pump (yet).
Took LC to Advance Auto to get a battery/charging system test, and the battery that was new as of this past Saturday afternoon showed to be in need of replacement for some reason. Remember, I did have to drive it back home with that battery, but with a bad/dead alternator, so I don't know what might have happened, if anything, during the return trip.
Put in brand new AGM Platinum Advance Auto battery, larger size, and repeated the entire battery/charging system test again, this time with a full passing grade. It is charging on an AGM-specific charger now. l let sit overnight and test again tomorrow.
So now I have a new Toyota (rebuilt) alternator, a new fuel filter, and a new AGM battery. My tech seems to think it might be the ignition switch assembly, not the key cylinder, but the part just past that, and has replaced a few in similar LCs with positive results. Does that seem likely? I wonder if it's not the ECU. Could be the fuel pump, per earlier posts, but the engine bay fuel filter itself certainly could have gone another 300k miles based on its condition. It looked clean inside and flowed very well when we removed and tested it. Doesn't mean it's not the pump, but it certainly wasn't fighting a clogged filter, at least not the one in the engine bay.
Any more thoughts, with the new data?
EDIT: I have a new fuel filter, not pump (yet).
Last edited:
fj55-100
SILVER Star
following this closely , my 99 has had this for the last year , check your 15 a mp efi fuse see if it looks dark . then look for info online about stalling related to the engine fuse block terminals where the relays plug in getting loose .
- Thread starter
- #30
Will check the condition of that fuse in the AM, when I pull the charger. Thanks for the tip!
- Thread starter
- #31
BTW, meant to ask earlier, where is the fuel pump relay, in the box on driver's side under the hood, or elsewhere?
fj55-100
SILVER Star
circuit opening relay is in the engine fuse block ,it controls the fuel pump ecu ,the book shows it in the left rear kick panel. but i have not inspected mine yet. i put a fuel pressure gauge on it and drove it till it stalled , when it stalls it has 43 psi with no issues . and it restars without a long crank time , indicating fuel system on mine is good .
mine did similar when the fuel pump went out.
- Thread starter
- #36
Yesterday morning, I took mine back to the tech who put in the alternator, and asked him to try and make it fail, and then figure out what's wrong. I am going by shortly to see if he was able to narrow it down. I found fuel pump relays locally, and might try that as a quick attempt to fix the problem. If that doesn't do it, I can replace the pump, but I think I want to order it from somewhere like Camelback or Lakeland Toyota, because their pricing seems to be very good. All these things seem like throwing money at it to fix it, but in the end, I guess it won't hurt to have new items in these critical places on a 336k+ mile LC. So I suppose it's not truly wasted either way.
- Thread starter
- #37
Just talked to the technician, and he said he was able to, after the truck got warm under the hood, make it cut off by manipulating the fuse block attached to the positive terminal of the battery. He took it off, disassembled it, cleaned it, replaced one bad fuse, and reinstalled it, but it didn't seem to help the situation. The block is firmly attached to the battery terminal, but I wonder if there's an underlying issue with the block itself, maybe some wiring attached to it? I am going to pick up the LC from him shortly, and I guess keep looking.
- Thread starter
- #39
You have a good point. I reflexively avoid the dealers under normal circumstances, but in this case, a diagnostic fee might be worthwhile. FWIW, the trip home from the tech's shop, with a side trip to the UPS Store, and then the bank in an adjacent town, including sitting at idle in the drive-through, were completely uneventful.
- Thread starter
- #40
Update: I got to speak to the good folks at ACC in Atlanta, and it was suggested that it might well be buildup in the throttle body, so when I get home, I am going to clean that out. Makes sense as to why there wasn't a code, too.
In the meantime, my brake master cylinder also went out suddenly, so I have to swap that, too!! That's gonna be expensive. Good thing I love this truck.
In the meantime, my brake master cylinder also went out suddenly, so I have to swap that, too!! That's gonna be expensive. Good thing I love this truck.
