STOP, collaborate and listen.....Tundra brake swap (1 Viewer)

[TexAZ]

First I would like to thank Brian Jowett (@bjowett ) for figuring out that this is possible and providing some of the parts at a better cost than available anywhere else.
Second I want to thank Camelback Toyota and their parts department. They have gone above and beyond looking over parts drawings trying to come up with the correct part numbers for the hard lines and mounting brackets.


Like most of us, I was surprised by the way the brakes feel on our trucks. They work. But it is not linear and definatly not confidence inspiring when towing a trailer.

Having come from a Tundra as my previous vehicle, and installing the Tundra IFS, adding bigger brakes seemed like a logical thing to do to help stop the truck better.

Here is the parts list I used:

Driver’s side (LH)

Tundra Dust shield 47703-0c031
Tundra caliper 477500C030
Tundra Hard line 47314-35330
Line bracket on order, will get part number Friday
Rotor stop tech 126.44156sl

Passenger side (RH)
Tundra Dust shield 47704-0c031
Tundra caliper 477300c030
Tundra Hard line 47316-35250
Line bracket on order
Rotor stop tech 126.44156sr

Stainless brake line kit stop tech 950.44023
Pads Centric HD


Tools:

Jack, Jack stands, wheel chocks

17 mm wrench, crows foot, socket

Pliers, small prybar, screwdriver, hammer, 39mm 12pt socket, big @$$ breaker bar

Big torque wrench (up to 250 ft/lbs.)

8mm wrench, 10mm line wrench, 19mm line wrench, 12 mm wrench/socket,

Wheel bearing grease, brake cleaner, dust free rags, safety goggles/face shield

Installation:

Jack up front of vehicle, place on jack stands and remove wheels.

Remove the calipers by taking off the 17mm bolts. Place the caliper on/between the steering knuckle and the spring. Remove the rotors. (May need to use two small bolts to push disk off of hub.)

Use prybar/putty knife/ screwdriver to remove hub dust cap.

Remove cotter pin

Use 39mm 12Pt socket and big breaker bar to remove axle retaining nut.

Loosen the 4 17mm bolts that hold the hub bearing to the steering knuckle. I used a wrench and dead blow hammer.

Here’s where I got creative….having installed the tundra suspension, I knew what a pain it was getting the CV shaft out of the hub. My solution, take one lug nut and partially install it. Use a small piece of scrap metal, bar stock, tubing, or angle iron and a “C” clamp to make a press to push the axle back out of the hub.

Looks hokey, but works like a champ!

 

[TexAZ]

Pull the hub and bearing assembly off the truck and remove the stock dust shield.

Clean up the hub and O ring and apply fresh grease. Put the new dust shield on the hub bearing housing and push the bolts through the holes to keep in aligned. Slide the hub/dust shield assembly over the axle shaft and start the 4 retaining bolts. Get all the bolts started and run in about half way before tightening any of them. (disregard that in this pic the dust shield is upside down)

Once all bolts are in, tighten until your elbow goes click. Couldn’t find recommended torque value.

Used the double wrench method to gorilla fist it.

Install the axle retaining nut and torque to 249 ft/lbs. install capture plate and cotter pin. Put a thin film of grease on dust cap where it goes into the hub and re-install dust cap.

PIC of rotors!


Spray new rotors with brake cleaner to remove any packing grease and dust.

Special word of caution!!! Brake cleaner in your eyes SUCKS. Wear goggles or glasses or face shield or body suite from the CDC….

Just sayin’.


Place the rotor on the wheel studs. Pack the caliper with new pads, clips and anti-squeak grease.

With the new caliper fully opened (pads pushed out as far as they will go) slide the caliper over the rotor and install the two bolts to mount it to the knuckle. Torque the bolts to 79 ft/lbs.

Remove the Land Cruiser brake line mounting bracket (12 mm bolt) and install the Tundra bracket.

Insert the stainless steel brake line fitting through the bracket. Install the hard line from the caliper to the knuckle bracket (10 mm line wrench and 17mm wrench)

Disconnect the Land Cruiser brake line and remove the caliper (10mm line wrench on fitting, and 19mm line wrench on hose fitting)

Slide the stainless brake line fitting through the mounting tab on the frame and tighten brake line to hose.

Install spring clip in frame end of stainless line fitting. Install spring clip in steering knuckle end of brake line.

Recommend installing speed bleeders in calipers. (8mm closed end wrench)

Starting on the passenger side, bleed the brakes.

Once completed with bleeding the brakes, re-install the wheels and lower off of jack stands.

Perform burn in procedures as recommended by your chosen rotor/brake pad manufacturer.

 

[TexAZ]

I have the hard lines and brackets to attach the hard lines to the knuckle on order and expect to pick them up on Friday.
I bought the calipers and lines off ebay. Go figure, one line is off 4wd truck, other is off 2wd. They ARE different.
i didn't include any pics of the lines at this time as there are zipties keeping them snug to the knuckle.
i'll add more pics once the correct lines and brackets are in.

During the burn in, I slowed from 60 to 10 applying enough force that the ABS was just starting to come on. The poor Toyo ATIIs were clawing and barking trying for grip. Never had that issue before with the stock set up.
Not sure how much of that is due to the pads, and how much is due to the larger rotors, but they work like a champ!
The real test will be with the new pads on the rears and towing the boat.

We'll see how it does the next time some @$$ hat runs a stop sign and pulls out in front of me doing 40 towing a trailer, then decides to drive 20 because I'm all up on his tail.....

 

[murf]

Great write up~

 

[tplane2]

This is how its done. Excellent write up. Push-pin worthy.

 

[Atx Cruiser]

Holy cow what a great write up. Thank you!

 

[TeCKis300]

Nicely done! I had put one toe going down this path, and decided better of it as I didn't have hte time to invest. Glad to see someone else pull through and document it! Now if you had taken the journey only a few weeks earlier...

Good stuff!

 

[M1911]

A couple questions:

1) Will the Tundra brakes fit on standard 200 series IFS?
2) Where did you get the stainless steel brake lines? Vendor and part number?

 

[TexAZ]

I'm thrifty (aka cheap) when it comes to hobby spending. Nothing on these rigs comes cheap. I have a 67 Scout and can't imagine dropping close to a grand every time I mod something on it, but on the 200, that is just what it takes.
To mitigate this as much as possible I research what is available, watch ebay and craigslist and hopefully learn from others here what works and what doesn't.
I spent close to 6 months gathering parts for the lift, and nearly three researching and gathering parts for the brakes.
Hopefully this thread will make it easier for "the next guy".

 

[TexAZ]

@M1911, yes this will work with the stock 200 suspension.

the stainless brake hose kit is : Stainless brake line kit stop tech 950.44023

I got it when I did the Tundra suspension, and realized it wouldn't work at the time......just google the part number and use the best vendor you can find.

 

[M1911]

the stainless brake hose kit is : Stainless brake line kit stop tech 950.44023

Doh, you had that part number in the OP, if I had read it carefully enough...

 

[slimwat]

Thinking of doing this to my 2008. All in what did this cost you in parts?

 

[TexAZ]

200 for used calipers 450 for dust shields, rotors, and all pads. 65 stainless lines , 35 mounting brackets and hard lines. Brake fluid, anti squeal grease another 20.

 

[TeCKis300]

I was going to go down this path, but just finished my brake job with stock parts. I have a brand new set of the tundra lines if anyone is interested.

Stainless brake line kit stop tech 950.44023

$40 shipped Paypal

 

[mike mooradian]

Its really cool that you took the time to share this with everyone. Awesome write up. Very detailed.

 

[BulletHead]

Do you recall the "Line bracket" PNs ?

Also, does this entire method with PNs provided ONLY work with the Tundra IFS or will also work with the stock URJ200 LC setup?

 

[TexAZ]

The Tundra brakes will work with the stock landcruiser suspension.
as far as brake lines go, I would strongly recommend contacting Crown performance and getting Tundra lines that go from the frame to the caliper..
one thing I have learned since doing the swap, is that the hard lines make it more difficult to remove the caliper when needed (like replacing a broken wheel stud).

I saved all the parts bags with the part numbers, i'll look them up tonight when I get home.

 

[Willy beamin]

You are fearless! Bravo!

 

[Climbingnut]

Wow! Great write up! I tow an off-road caravan all the time. This is my kind of modification, but Tundra's aren't too common in my part of the world.

 

[BulletHead]

So if I replace the brake lines going from the frame to the caliper like you recommended, would one also NOT need the line brackets listed above?
Any idea what length SS lines would be needed? I'll try and contact Crown performance today to get some details. The SS lines for the 07-13 Tundra they have on their site are:
7 options:
0-7" over stock Tundra lift in 1" increments.