Nah, all the airflow will suck the cruiser forwards like a jet engine!
thinking about going Alum Rad-3FE (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rghouse
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- aluminum cooling fan rad
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Why would and aluminum radiator solve your problem? The only reason OEM's went away from brass/copper radiators was to save weight. Copper transfers heat with near twice the efficiency of aluminum.
What sort of water temps are you seeing that has you on this mission?
- Thread starter
- #23
I don't have a digital thermometer. The gauge goes up almost to red before I have to shut off/drive/turn off AC. A trustworthy friend mentioned aluminum radiators are more eficient in cooling and I believd him. I just can't understand why the damn thing will not stay cool and am willing to try anything. Apparently OEM fan clutches don't work so I'm going to be tackling that first
Hornd
SILVER Star
There is an easy way to test radiator flow.
Pull off top hose and bottom hose.
Put a hose and rag to seal in top of radiator.
See if flow out the bottom equals flow out the top.
Pull off top hose and bottom hose.
Put a hose and rag to seal in top of radiator.
See if flow out the bottom equals flow out the top.
- Thread starter
- #25
Had it completely out last summer and tested at a shop. Flow was found to be minimally restricted, and got "don't think this is your problem man"
I think we might need a little bit of a reset this only happens when the A/C is on correct? You can pick up an inexpensive temp gun from Lowes. See what the temps are on your engine with the A/C on and Off. The stock temp gauges are known to not be the most accurate are we sure the vehicle is actually overheating and this is not an electrical issue? Have you done a leak down to verify the headgasket is not blown? I know that the 3FE generally does not have an issue with head gaskets however its possible I blew mine a few years ago.
If you can pry the condensor far enough out of the way to get your hand in front of the radiator, get the engine to operating temp and put your hand on the core, feel different parts of the core to see if a section feels to be of a drastic difference in temp. This will tell you if part of the core is clogged. You can also point a temp gun at different parts of the core. Also try running it without the tstat and see if it makes a difference or just test the tstat in boiling water. I clogged a radiator buy using tap water to mix coolant rather than distilled, some of the core was hot, some was not due to being clogged.
- Thread starter
- #28
Not sure what a leak down is. The head was off last summer and found to be warped. It was machined and re-installed
I have an infrared laser thermometer and temps follow a normal pattern side to side top to bottom.
the only electrical component that has not been replaced/tested is the idle control module. The high temps are so easy to predict that I find it hard to believ the t stat/gauge are broke.
Also brand new water pump, fan shroud is intact
I have an infrared laser thermometer and temps follow a normal pattern side to side top to bottom.
the only electrical component that has not been replaced/tested is the idle control module. The high temps are so easy to predict that I find it hard to believ the t stat/gauge are broke.
Also brand new water pump, fan shroud is intact
Was the head retorqued after having the gasket replaced? Also was the deck of the block checked for warpage as well?
Leak down test can help identify if there is a problem with the headgasket or cylinder head simple to do.
How to do a leakdown test | Mobil™ Motor Oils
Leak down test can help identify if there is a problem with the headgasket or cylinder head simple to do.
How to do a leakdown test | Mobil™ Motor Oils
- Thread starter
- #30
Hmm. Don't know, shop didn't mention that. Valves were adjusted. What is that
So when you do the headgasket the head bolts are torqued to the spec in the FSM after about 100 miles or so or 4-5 drive cycles the head bolts will expand and shrink from heat and will likely loosen a little bit it is recommended to retorque the head bolts to the spec listed in the FSM otherwise you run the risk of the head and gasket not sealing to the block and basically blowing the head gasket again.
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- #32
Damn. Guess I need to have that checked
- Thread starter
- #34
Come to think of it, I did bring it back after 500 miles but I thought that was for the valves. They must have taken care of it.
Timing was done. What other external components are there?
The fan just isn't cutting it. When I was on the trail last week the fan on my buddies rubicon was throwing up dust, and it sits pretty high. My fan will hold a rag on the front (when the idle kicks up)but not even close to throwing up dust.
Timing was done. What other external components are there?
The fan just isn't cutting it. When I was on the trail last week the fan on my buddies rubicon was throwing up dust, and it sits pretty high. My fan will hold a rag on the front (when the idle kicks up)but not even close to throwing up dust.
clogged hose the condensor on the front could be closed you shouldnt be able to hold the fan when its running one way to check is a rolled up magazine or newspaper at start up try and stick it in the fan if the fan stops its definitely not working it should just push it out of the way and continue to spin.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
When it's overheating the fan clutch should be fully engaged. Turn off the motor and immediately go to turn the clutch. It should be hard to turn. If it just spins...well, you have a bad fan clutch. I've seen plenty of bad Aisin fan clutches right out of the box. FWIW each was from Amazon
You can easily see that your friend is wrong by googling the subject. A very efficient aluminum radiator can be built but it will be a custom build. The issue is that you have a certain sized space for your radiator and going aluminum will gain you nothing if not make things worse.
Do yourself a favor and read what engineers print.
Sounds like all this keeps pointing back to the fan clutch. I have a blue clutch that I drained and filled with 30K CST. At startup and for the first couple hundred feet of driving the fan ROARS. Sounds like an 18 wheeler pulling away from a red light. Then it gets quiet a few seconds later. A properly working fan clutch will move some serious air.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
+1 - I had a Amazon fan clutch bad/NIB. Real Aisin, seller was nice & swapped it fast, but I only have bought 2, ever.
1st was @cruiserdan in the early 2000's/Black Betty & this recent for the Sage 40th AE one I had just bought ~2.5yrs back. Dan's was & still is great, but my Amazon seller one (StockwiseAuto was vendor) was a loser right out of box.
I chased my butt on that (OK, not really - my high temp in WA just wasn't cured, I knew where I was looking), --but I never knew they were bad out of box back then - where were you with that little nugget o' wisdom back then J?
(Could be buried in your "wits end" thread - that's longer than the Old Testament!!)
Anyhow, good to know it wasn't just me.
__________________________
Cliff note : Always 'evil eye' a new fan clutch.
No doubt OEM suppliers have multiple tiers. Top layer goes where?
