1993 80 Drivers power window won't go down. (1 Viewer)

[HumbleDaddy]

I bought a 1993 that was submerged for a day. I Fixed all of the electronics EXCEPT I can't get the drivers side power window to roll down. I check the continuity at the motor plug and it was good both ways. When I hit the switch it will only roll up even before I connected it to the regulator. The passenger side motor was out and I replaced it with no problems, but the driver side has got me stumped. I spent about three hours looking at schematics and trying to cold solder the little box inside the bottom left outside of the drivers door. The doorlock actuator clicks also but won't unlock. Please if anybody knows a solution to the window problem let me know.
Thanks

 

[gummycarbs]

I can only say that I bought the set of two front motors and regulators off Amazon or eBay for about $90 and I've been very satisfied with them. It's not worth troubleshooting at that price, in my opinion.

 

[HumbleDaddy]

I also bought them for $39 each on eBay, but the driver side how's continuity and up-and-down at the plug, but will only roll up. I don't get it I tried three brand-new different motors. Is there some relay or internal circuit messing this up??? Also my door locks don't work but I can hear a click so I ordered the Little actuator motors in hopes to fix it. The truck was flooded might I add.

 

[gummycarbs]

So those are new motors and regulators, or just new motors? Are both sides new?

Have you 'jumped' the motors with wires connected directly to 12V (with a fuse) and ground? Tons of problems can be caused by weak connections to 12V and ground.

 

[ppc]

Sounds like a bad switch. The switch reverses polarity on the motor so if it works in one direction the motor is good.

 

[HumbleDaddy]

Sounds like a bad switch. The switch reverses polarity on the motor so if it works in one direction the motor is good.

At the motor connector:
I have 12.2v up and -12.2v down, but the motor only goes up. I know the motor is good. What is going on?

 

[HumbleDaddy]

So those are new motors and regulators, or just new motors? Are both sides new?

Have you 'jumped' the motors with wires connected directly to 12V (with a fuse) and ground? Tons of problems can be caused by weak connections to 12V and ground.

The motor is good. I've put 12v directly to it both ways. The regulator is new.

 

[gummycarbs]

The motor is good. I've put 12v directly to it both ways. The regulator is new.

So, I assume the motor is not new. It appears that the motor is also not good, if it's not running both ways when voltage and ground are provided directly and swapped.

 

[HumbleDaddy]

So, I assume the motor is not new. It appears that the motor is also not good, if it's not running both ways when voltage and ground are provided directly and swapped.

The drivers motor is new and works when I plugged it to the pass side also.
It will not work on the drivers side. Likewise, I plugged the rear passenger motor into the drivers door and it will only roll up, but works fine on all other doors.

 

[Malleus]

Do you have the FSM? THE EWD is clear on the circuit design of the DS window/lock cluster. A junkyard replacement is cheap. Some members have reported that the Camry switch is a direct replacement, but the board layout is not the same.

 

[gummycarbs]

If you're swapping in motors that work on other windows, and you're directly jumping power and ground (i.e. bypassing the switch issue entirely), then the problem has to be the regulator.

You didn't give any details on how you're powering the motor, though, so I still think that wiring and/or the switch is the most likely cause.

 

[HumbleDaddy]

I have another 1993 fzj80 that's in the paint shop and all windows work. When I get it back on Friday...I'll pull the master switch from the door panel and try it in the defective one. If it is the switch, what year Camry switch is a direct replacement?

 

[HumbleDaddy]

If you're swapping in motors that work on other windows, and you're directly jumping power and ground (i.e. bypassing the switch issue entirely), then the problem has to be the regulator.

You didn't give any details on how you're powering the motor, though, so I still think that wiring and/or the switch is the most likely cause.

It does it whether or not the motor is hooked to the regulator. I was powering it directly from the battery and switched neg to pos and Vice versa. The motor is good.

 

[wayawaya]

I got exactly the same problem... please let me know if you solve the issue.

 

[wayawaya]

Bump..

 

[beefjerky]

At the plug, are you reading +12v and -12v with the ground of your restored on the plug? Or are you grounding to the car body?

Have to pull the ground through the plug. My guess is switch.

 

[Brandon98]

Go to your local pick and pull. Find an 89 to 94 Camry with power windows. Yank the driver's master switch. Repeat 1-2 more times. Go home, clean off chicken grease and cigarette film with Chlorox wipes, swap the trim panels, and be done. Switches are about $12 in junkyards. Get two so you don't have to drive back if one fails.

Done.