Builds 4bt cummins 96 FZJ (3 Viewers)

[cjmoon]

Not real sure why my picture uploads are not showing up in the post.

But any way, my now 5 week old son is finally getting enough settled that I can get out a little more. Engine is almost back together both rear seatbelt mount panels are welded in and rear axle brakes re done. I've got a short list to being able to fire it up for the first time in over 3 months. Starting to really get motivated to put some late nights, but the sleeplessness that in sues after deciding it's late enough is killing me. I use to be able to function on 5 hours of good sleep. Now it takes closer to 9 or more.

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[cjmoon]

Trying some different photo attachment types

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[cjmoon]

Hot damn... back together and about 250 miles under its belt.

Trying to take longer routes to get more miles to break in the rings but that's not proving to be an easy task.

The first night after bad weather moved through and kids were a sleep I snuck out and got the first 100 miles on the maidian voyage. Small boost leak fixed checking every 20-30 miles. Everything was great and then the last stretch I found that I only hand tightened the second turbo drain I added to the pan for future expansion. Not sure at what point it feel out but let's say my underside is rust proofed. 5 quarts lost. Of the 12 quart system. Oops

 

[maxamillion2345]

That is the part that has taken me a while to find also part number 451-1113 is #10 fitting. The mounting hole had to be slotted an 1/8". I am checking with them to see it it was made incorrectly or if it truly is just different but works for this application. From AP Air

The compressor fittings are for a gm product aftermarket nostalgic ac part number gm1610. This company had the pad mounts also but the cost was much more and I didn't have any reference to pilot size.

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Have all but one of the ac fitting figured out. And have a real good idea on the 4th. Planning on using a compression fitting the a back up is having a fitting welded on to the original tube that passes through the radiator bulkhead

I hope its not too much to ask but I'd really like to copy your AC setup and was wondering if you could expand on this anymore. I see the part numbers for the two fittings on the compressor as well as the adapter for the firewall. Is there a part number for the crimp 90 that threads to that? How would I go about getting a straight fitting. #10 7/8 - 14 female oring but the hose side would be a what?

What did you do about the fitting at the condensor? Is that the one you're referring to having a compression fitting?

As far as hoses go... do I just go down to a hyd shop and have them crimp these?

When I did the swap I took the cummins and toyota lines down to a hyd shop and they just crimped stuff together but I was left with no schrader valves, which was fine as I only did it to seal up the system.

What did you do for oil amount and charge amount?

I'd really appreciate any help. If these seem like dumb questions, I'm sure they are and I apologize.

 

[cjmoon]

there are no dumb questions just dumb people asking questions. just kidding. i knew nothing about a/c stuff before diving into mine luckily one of my dad's aircraft mechanics use to do a/c work and gave me a bunch of pointers. I've probably forgotten most of it by now.

stop by your hydraulic shop first. they might even have what you need. my shop had some stuff but not exactly what i needed, so i bought the hose and and 1 or 2 fitting from them and then found the others online. then took them back to them to crimp they were cool to work with. they informed me that a couple different a/c hose wall thicknesses are out there and to watch out for that. what i found were most are for the thicker hose with is more common. Modern OEM tend to use smaller wall thickness for tight spaces and lower cost presumably.

one of the several sites for fitting options to think through your setup
Cold Hose - Female Oring - Oring - Fittings

I'll try and remember and snap a picture of it i think i ended up with a 45 deg one. i silicon-ed it also as it's crimped down on aluminum and i didn't want to over tighten and crush it. it loosened up on me once but oil collected and was pushing it out just making the fitting wet so a quick snug and didn't even have t refill and haven't had issues since.

I used the oil amount that toyota called out on a complete system overhaul with flush. i can't remember what that was. the oil amount is pretty arbitrary from what i could find to much and you displace Freon so poor performance (you would have to double the amount or more) and some is better than none. dry and your compressor is toast.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

All this AC talk makes me want to get mine working. I think when I got mine filled the shop guessed the amount somewhere between Dodge and Toyota.

 

[cjmoon]

i put a small pusher fan (12" or something like that, there are right ups on mud about it) on the front of the condenser. it helped a lot but in the heat and heavy stop and go traffic it is not that great and heat soaks

 

[Mr Cimarron]

i put a small pusher fan (12" or something like that, there are right ups on mud about it) on the front of the condenser. it helped a lot but in the heat and heavy stop and go traffic it is not that great and heat soaks

I have two pullers with no mechanical fan. I'm just lazy and don't put in the relay needed to turn on one or both of the fans when the AC turns on.

 

[maxamillion2345]

If you don't mind another question... how did those compressor manifold swivels seal to the compressor? I ended up with the same thing but the orings got smushed and blew out. Thinking I needed something different maybe.

 

[cjmoon]

if in remember right i used these molded seal washers. i dont; recall if they came with some parts I bought or from the local parts store. they looked like this:

Cold Hose - GM Sealing Washer Kit

 

[maxamillion2345]

Thats what my buddy thought I needed as well. Thank you!!!

 

[cjmoon]

I've had many late nights trying to finalize some things before a CO trip next month.

1 ton tie rod ends and dom tierod to fix the other one that is sooo protected by the axle...

Injection pump had a small leak/drip that I decided it was time to pull and reseal.

Going over the front axle and tightening things broke a knuckle stud. So I was able to drill it out and an easy out got it oit with oit dissassembly and installed trail gear studs.

OEM u-joints front and rear also.

Finally extended beather lines after almost 4 years of owner ship. Im a terrible landcruiser owner some one should remove it from my care...

I've been all ass and elbows getting things done and not many pictures.

 

[maxamillion2345]

That pump job looks no fun. I keep thinking I might be leaking out the front seal... yuck.

 

[cjmoon]

Ya the pump seal I've beenputting off for some time. Lots of VW writeups about it. My tuning didn't go back any where close to where it was when I removed. I know it's common for maxed out fuel screw without runaway. But mine has never been that way. Now it is. There is obviously some adjustment that people don't talk about/trade secret to keep the rebuild cost at $800 when basic parts are $30 of soft goods. Also my "fuel shutoff lever" has never actually worked. It was out of adjustment and didn't contact the fueling lever to close it off. I fixed that just incase the solenoid chunks out. It's never happeneed to me in 6 years of use, but my boddu is on his 3rd in 2 years, what a pain. I guess it can be machined off and fixes the issue but mine is back together so I guess all address that later if it ever happens to me

 

[maxamillion2345]

My FSS crapped out on me, would open just enough to give me fuel at the injectors but not enough to fire, only cough. That had me chasing my tail for a while. I finally gutted it and just run the lever to a cable. Fired right up after that.

With my absurdly high EGTs and my slight loss of prime and fuel in the oil I keep thinking maybe I should just get a new baselined pump but... ughh

 

[cjmoon]

Well. 2500 miles through CO with limited boost 25-30 max. And only had to lift my hood twice to shut off the engine. I machined the fuel pin down to the metal as that seems like what people did online. At first it was 50/50 before we left and I added a chock cable to the shut off lever. It worked at first them seized up the day before we left and I said screw it I'll lift the hood to make the trip happen but it got better as the trip went which I was plesently suprised about.

Heading out to CO we averaged about 67mph and got 16-16.5 mpg. Then hitting KS on the way back we had a killer head wind and thunder storms brewing and droped to about 13 doing 70-75 trying to beat the storm, didn't happen and with wind struggles for 60mph at times up hill into 30+ mph winds. That is with trailer bikes 4 people and gear. Guessing about 8500# total.

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Tincup pass

 

[cjmoon]

More pics

Sellers lake and pass on the same trail at the top of power line road

 

[cjmoon]

 

[maxamillion2345]

Decent mileage all things considered!

 

[cjmoon]

Decent mileage all things considered!

No can't complain at all my dad's 2012 f150 we took and dropped in Co springs as cheap insurance got about 21 on the way out and 17 back so the wind was a huge factor.

And a chevy 1500 pulling trailer and 80 series was at 11 heading out which suprising my dad. He pulls a horse trailer quiet a bit and would have guessed 9 and would have estimated his own to be with the load. He was empty and I wanted to take everything in my cruiser just to push the envolope.