Builds Red Line Landcruisers " The Tale of Two 80's" Build (1 Viewer)

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Lower control arms went in Perfectly! After throwing those in and having the uppers set at the factory length. The pinion angle is prefect for the 3" lift!

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Side shot from when I first installed the #slinklylongtravel springs and #Coopersttpro 37's! How time flies!

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#CruiserOutfitters sent me some goodies! Always have to thank industry partners like Kurt and Georg. I ordered axle rebuild parts like FA9097KWB front axle rebuild kit, the rear axle rebuild kit, housing gaskets, 555 branded tie rod ends and 105 series lock out hubs with 10mm studs and hardware.
My plan was to machine out my front and rear wheel bearing hubs to 10mm x .125 TPI and get more strength out of the lock outs. The 105 series uses 80 axles and a 5 lug stud wheel bearing hub in the front so I figured machining my 80 front WB hubs would be an easy upgrade. Come to find out, the base center circle for the 105 lockouts is larger than the 80 WB hub can hold.
So that's out. I now have machined the front and rear WB hubs to 7/16 fine thread. Also machined the factory rear shafts (2 sets) and front Aisin red center Lock out hubs bases to 7/16 as well. Thanks Kurt! Also installed Chromo inner and out hub gears for the lock outs.
Here is what the front WB hubs look like now!

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RLMS said:
#CruiserOutfitters sent me some goodies! Always have to thank industry partners like Kurt and Georg. I ordered axle rebuild parts like FA9097KWB front axle rebuild kit, the rear axle rebuild kit, housing gaskets, 555 branded tie rod ends and 105 series lock out hubs with 10mm studs and hardware.
My plan was to machine out my front and rear wheel bearing hubs to 10mm x .125 TPI and get more strength out of the lock outs. The 105 series uses 80 axles and a 5 lug stud wheel bearing hub in the front so I figured machining my 80 front WB hubs would be an easy upgrade. Come to find out, the base center circle for the 105 lockouts is larger than the 80 WB hub can hold.
So that's out. I now have machined the front and rear WB hubs to 7/16 fine thread. Also machined the factory rear shafts (2 sets) and front Aisin red center Lock out hubs bases to 7/16 as well. Thanks Kurt! Also installed Chromo inner and out hub gears for the lock outs.
Here is what the front WB hubs look like now!

View attachment 1465883
Click to expand...

I miss something here .. so ain't possible just machine the existing holes on the 80 hub to match the 10mm new studs ?
 
Tapage said:
I miss something here .. so ain't possible just machine the existing holes on the 80 hub to match the 10mm new studs ?
Click to expand...

10MM = .394"
7/16 = .4375"

Clearly even Toyota recognized that the hub studs were undersized for the load, they just didn't make the switch till the last solid axle...

The 80 hub can be machined for 10mm no problem, but Justin was wanting to use the hardware and locking hub from a 105 (Series). The base circle on the 105 locking hub is quite a bit bigger diameter than the traditional solid axle hubs. Normal solid axle locking hubs don't have enough room on them to take the 10mm cone washer and hardware.

In lieu of the lack of room we decided to switch to 7/16 - 20 flange head bolt...

7/16 - 20 can be taken safely to 55-58 ft lbs. which creates alot of clamp load....
M10 X 1.x can be torqued to 38-40 ft lbs. which creates a decent clamp load, and a stud with a shoulder would be the most proper for the load.
 
Kurt now sells the 10mm stud kit per WB hub for reference! I also decided to upgrade my spindles with inner OEM needle bearings. Also supplied from Kurt! Here is my overall plan on the front axle rebuild/ upgrade list

1. 7/16 x 20 ARP bolt mod....
2. 5:29 ARB locked cryo'd diff
3. Chromo hub gears inner and outer...Done
4. RCV Front shafts...Already have
5. Full knuckle rebuild, with koyo bearings, supplied from #CruiserOutfitters
6. ARP knuckle stud's on top and bottom
7. Drilled and slotted performance brake kit.
8. Ram assist
9. OEM needle bearing swap for my spindles, supplied from #CruiserOutfitters
10. ARP wheel lug stud swap
11. Custom 1/2" wheel spacers
12. Ruff Stuff 8" diff protection plates

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ARP 7/16 x 20 Flange head bolts and a random air fitting. Bought these from summit, so I had to save on shipping! Expensive little critters!

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RLMS said:
It's fair to say with 132,000 miles, that the previous owner never serviced it
Click to expand...

Put Charles on the rack to start doing suspension work (several months ago), and I grabbed the the wheel "vertically" to see how it felt and the axle felt like it had bad ball joints ;) (had alot of movement that it shouldn't have)...


Transmission hard lines were are just hanging on their own weight, after getting the exhaust re-done the passenger bank curved under the transmission lines. Since the lines weren’t attached anywhere they just wanted to lay on the exhaust. In an attempt to stem the pain I zip tied the lines out of the way, this however isn’t a long term solution. I ordered up a transmission thermostat (Thermostasis 165*), inline cooler with -6 fittings (AFCO 37600), and 20’ of -6 Aeroquip push lock hose.

Picked the rocks out of the condenser and factory transmission cooler, then straightened the fins as best I could with a dental pick…

Removed the old transmission cooler lines and cooler, spent an hour cleaning up the inner fender and front cross member. Had a nasty power steering and transmission fluid leaks…





While waiting on transmission parts to show up my bumpers arrived from Luke (4x4 Labs), I admire the die they have to throw that beautiful roll bend in 3/16”. After seeing his bumpers I knew that I wouldn’t be able to build anything as cool in a fraction of the time so I ordered a set.

Front passenger frame horn was a little tweaked on my truck so we cut the weld at the crush zone, wedged in a porta-power and got it within 1/16” of the drivers frame horn. Bolted the bumper down tight and then tacked the frame rail into place, removed the bumper and fully welded it. The bumper looks like it sits a little lower than most but I have a 1” body lift (to help clear 37s).





I like the way the bumper radius flow around the lower valence… Currently have the nose of the truck stripped back down to trim the core support. I am going to trim the core support back enough that even in the ¾ shot it will not be visible.

 
this would be a fun shop to hang out in.
*following.
 
While the steering arms and knuckles and diff have been removed and are in the wash. I started finial prep/ cleaning of the WB hubs!

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Painted the hubs with my favorite spray paint of all time. It is an outdoor tractor enamel by "vansickle".....Takes 6 hrs to dry but with 1 coat it almost feels like a thin powder coat. I have found that it costs less, finial finishes better, doesn't scratch as easy, and last's longer than krylon...etc.
Van Sickle Paint - Welcome to our website

I baked the flat black painted hubs in the oven at 300 for 20 minutes, so they could get ready for some fresh Koyo bearings and seals I ordered from Kurt!

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Prepping the spindles for the OEM needle bearing/bushing upgrade. I used a 24mm MAC socket to smack the old bushings out. Pressed the new combo in!

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