FJ60 Brake Problem - bleeding master (1 Viewer)

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Bench bleeding is a must with new or air contaminated master. I'm sure there are videos if the description above doesn't make sense. And if you think it doesn't matter cause some fluid came thru, It does cause there's still air pockets trapped in the master...usually you can get a kit but it can be made and I have a set in my tool box- cut a short piece of brake line in half so that each one can be threaded into the master and bent to feed back into the res, one for each circuit. Their ends should be below fluid level in the res. Then pump the master via pushrod by hand in a vise on the " bench" or by pedal if it's already installed. Pump steadily and repeatadly a bunch. You see a big glug followed by a bunch of strokes of tiny bubbles. If the tube ends see air during this, start over... it is called bench bleeding because you do it on the bench before putting it in, but a lot of guys just stick it in the oem vise and bench bleed... it's easier to know when your done on the bench however...but you have to bench bleed a dry master...
 
I don't think it's possible to get full plunger throw with the master installed. This will leave bubbles.

On an old, dirty master, full plunger throw might cause o ring damage and result in needing a new master.

Even with an assistant, 60 brakes can be problematic. I've tried vacuum bleeding but with poor results. With your Speedy Bleeders, you should get good results if you can clear the bubbles from the new master.

Good luck.
 
Yup, I'll be doing that later today...

Thanks all for your input on this, sometimes working alone sucks... I spiral down a hole of negativity for no reason....
 
So it turns out that doing things the right way is the right way to do things... go figure.

It appears that "bench" bleeding the master (on the truck, I made up the necessary hard lines) has firmed up the pedal. I won't know for sure until I get it back on the road - hopefully later today. I probably didn't need a new master but now I have one. (and I have the old one as I didn't need to turn in a core)

Thank you all for you patience with me...

If you see me at Cruise Moab you'll know it all worked out... and if you DO see me please say hello and feel free to give me a smack in the head for being a dope.
 
Have fun in Maob. 4WD disneyland.
 
Glad it all worked out, Woytovich. Nothing to feel bad about. You did everything right. Installing the new master was a good move. You wouldn't want to go through the bleeding process again in a few months when the old one failed.

Have fun in Moab.
 
awesome. :steer:
 
it only gets that bad when you get air in at the beginning of the line or when whole lengths of tubes get air in them...the other place air gets hung up is in the wheel cylinder cups of brand new wheel cylinders... just swapping a caliper or opening a bleeder to compress pistons for pads in a gravity job. Now you know. you won't forget any time soon...
 
Cruiser university is a great place to learn, thanks for the lesson!
 
You are bleeding in the wrong order. Always start farthest and end closest. Drivers (Left) rear, RR, LF, RF. Actual distance through the brake lines.

Dyno
 

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