Builds Rebirth of Squatch (1 Viewer)

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Can you post a good side profile shot with the current ride height with the 63" springs and frenched shackle? And you have 35" or 37" tires? Thanks.

This is the best photo I have right now with the 63s and frenched shackles. I am running 37s.

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Started on the exhaust last night and got the passenger side catalytic converted mounted up and routed past the transfer case. Things are real close, as in approximately 1/8" on each side of the cat between the frame and bell housing.
 
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Have been thinking about the wiring for the 5.3 and how I am going to tie it into the factory FJ60 harness, in particular the switched 12V power for the computer. I plan on mounting the computer on the driver side fender like most people do and there is currently a handful of factory plugs on that side for various thing, one of them being the fuel cutoff solenoid. With the fuel cutoff solenoid there is 12V power when the key is switched on. Does anyone see any reason I could not use this circuit for the 12V switched on the 5.3 computer? It is already fused and does exactly what I need.
 
Picked up some rear 99 Tahoe springs over the weekend. They measure 52" eye to eye with the center pin smack dab in the middle. Started mocking everything up and this is currently how it sits:

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Front mounts moved up and just tacked in place

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First shot at the shackle angle. I think it is too steep and will be moving the mount back an inch or so tonight

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Also if anyone is interested all the old suspension stuff is for sale and can be found here
For Sale - FJ60/62 Man-A-Fre OME Lift
 
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I would put the shackle though the frame. if you look at the angle of the spring you can see that the weight of the rig will add to compression of the leafs while under braking. You will get more nose dive with them in that configuration. A lot of guys don't think it is a big deal. I have done it both ways and I prefer my front leaves setup with a more level front to back ratio. The driving difference is noticeable.
 
I would put the shackle though the frame. if you look at the angle of the spring you can see that the weight of the rig will add to compression of the leafs while under braking. You will get more nose dive with them in that configuration. A lot of guys don't think it is a big deal. I have done it both ways and I prefer my front leaves setup with a more level front to back ratio. The driving difference is noticeable.

I think I am going to follow your suggestion on this as I think it will be easier to get the shackle bushings to line up easier as well as the inherited benefits you mentioned. The only thing I may have to do is change from a 5" shackle to a 6" shackle to get the height I need in the front, but this is an easy change that I can make at anytime.
 
Had a chance to finish up the front springs this weekend. Let me say Tahoe rear springs up front with 63" chevy springs in the rear, match up perfectly on ride height for 37s. The front springs are super flex but without the overloads in place they want to go negative, so bump stops will be in order. Also ran out of height on the cherry picker but I am sure she has way more in her.

Everything tucks real nice, but a bit of fender trimming will be needed

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Well as they say one step forward, two steps back. Decided to install the rear driveline so I could mock up the exhaust around and the driveline angles are to great and it binds. Looks like the offset rear difference is going to screw me after all.

So my current thought is to pick up a FJ80 full float rear end and run it for awhile. Then when the check book rebounds, buy a ruffstuff rear housing.

Does any one know how offset the pinion is in the rear 80 axle? How about on the 60? Is it really that big of a difference?

Any better ideas out there besides a 80 rear? Would like to keep six lugs and my 9.5" chunks as they are already geared and half locked.
 
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Measured the FJ60 rear axle and it is approximately 13.5" off center to the passenger side. Looks like if the FJ80 rear axle is only offset half of that it will work. Now I just need to find one at a decent price.
 
80 rear works fine with center output t-case. @GLTHFJ60 ran this way for a time.
 
If everything pans out I should be picking up a FJ80 rear end this afternoon.

Started working in the exhaust again last night, since I now know how this thing is going to flex and how the front driveshaft is going to travel.

I was able to get the passenger to driver side crossover to fit between the atlas and transmission and not hang down any lower then the pan on the transmission.

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Drive side catalytic converter is mounted as well but no pics yet. The two sides will be tied into each other using v-band to make removing the exhaust easier in the event that I need to drop the transfer case and/or transmission.
 
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Exhaust crossover and muffler are all tacked in. Just need to pull everything and fully weld it.

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Also spent a few hours cutting all the brackets off the FJ80 axle and the factory suspension mounts off. Found the easiest way to get the suspension mounts off was to cut the heads of the rivets off with the plasma and then smack them with a BFH.
 
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Was able to finish the routing of the exhaust last night. Just need to finish fully weld the system and put the O2 sensor bungs in.

Also finished grinding all the old brackets off the FJ80 rear housing. Probably have 2.5 hours of just grinding on the housing.

Pay no attention to the shock angles as they are not bolt on.
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Looks great! My rear suspension plan is exactly the same, those springs with frenched shackles.
 

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