Bearing grease (1 Viewer)

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anyone have experience with Amsoil grease for the knuckle rebuild?

Trying to figure out the right one to use. Also how much do I need.

I know I need moly grease too. How much should I buy?

Thanks
 
I use RedLine CV-2 grease.
 
OS, What do you think about using the Walmart Moly (in a tube) as a one grease solution ?

I've noticed in your other post that you always use just one grease for everything. I've used the mentioned Walmart for decades in the BIRFS of both of my Cruisers but never on the wheel bearings.

I'd like to be a 'one grease guy' if I could get away with it. Are you familiar with the Walmart Moly ?

I'm not sure what the Walmart Moly content is...I'll try to find out and Edit my post.
 
Back in the day...
There wasn't much to choose from 30 years ago, and (me being a one grease kinda guy) used Sta-Lube Moly Graph Extreme Pressure grease for 28 years... For everything.

Moly-Graph® Extreme Pressure Multi-Purpose Lithium Grease, 14 Wt Oz

And I can't say that I've ever had a lubrication related issue with it.
My u-joint spider bearings lasted 240,000 miles & weren't worn out when I recently changed them. My birfields were fine, though I only use 4WD occasionally. Wheel bearings fine (serviced every 60k). So that "old fashioned" (and inexpensive) grease was perfectly adequate. No problems at all.

But recently I wanted to change to something more super duper since the Moly Graph was no longer being carried at my local Autoparts store... Did some research & found this Valvoline SynLube stuff. Personally, I've only used it for about 2-1/2 years. Seems fine to me and it meets all the FSM specs and I'm sure it lubricantes far better than anything available back in the 80's.
 
only 1 lube for the birfields and bearings?

Is that better then the mobile 1 or amsoil?

No moly grease?
 
Don't use the red Mobil 1 synthetic grease in the birfields. It is an awesome wheel bearing grease though.

If I was going to completely clean out the birfield joints & repack the joint & repack the wheel bearings, I think you'll need at least 2 tubes of grease. You won't need four (per side). If I had to order grease before the job (& not run possibly run up short) I'd buy 6 tubes of grease to do both sides. What's left over (maybe a tube) can be your maintenance grease.
 
Mobil 1 red synthetic grease is an amazing EP lubricant. I once did an (unscientific) test with it comparing it to that molygraph stuff I mentioned above.
I had two aluminium tubes that could barely fit inside each other. They would bind when pushing & turning them to try to insert one into the other.

I lubed up the smaller tube with molygraph & then tried again to push & twist it into the other. I didn't get too far. Too much friction even with moly & lithium & graphite in that grease.

I then tried it again, cleaning off the molygraph grease & then coating the tube with Mobil 1 red synthetic. Holy Cow! I could twist & push the tube all the way down. It was amazing.

The problem with Mobil 1 red synthetic grease is that it will eventually separate into liquid if contaminated with even a trace of another grease or gear oil. It turns to soup. Mobil even warns of this and recommends that all parts be completely free of any previous lubricant and cleaned in solvent.

It's excellent for wheel bearings, but the steering knuckle can get some gear oil in it when the axle seal wears, and when that happens, the Mobil 1 will liquify.
 
I would recommend just using one grease for everything. That way there's only one grease gun and you only need to have one type. You can't go wrong with using that Valvoline SynPower Grease mentioned above for everything.
 
Back in the day...
There wasn't much to choose from 30 years ago, and (me being a one grease kinda guy) used Sta-Lube Moly Graph Extreme Pressure grease for 28 years... For everything.


I have used that for 25+ years, along with any other NLGI Moly-fortified (so-called 'Ford-Mercury spec' wheel bearing grease). Synthetic may have some advantages, but consider what people were using in Toyotas in the 1960s and 70s - anything from our era with Moly Sulfide should be totally sufficient for Birfields and wheel bearings.
 

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