Tembo / Exel 15 gallon Aux Tank Installation (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 31, 2016
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Location
Evergreen, Colorado USA
I wanted to share some of my thinking on the Tembo/exel aux tank install a bit as the 200 goes into the shop for installation of the Aux tank this week. I was going to do the install myself, but work always gets in the way of the best-laid plans.
A little background, while 60L/15 gallons does not seem to be a huge difference, it will allow for about 150 to 175 mile additional range on the highway. I am a little heavy on the skinning peddle, the rig is heavy, weighs in at about 7300lbs, running 4.88s, then once you add the ski box, rhino rack, max trax, etc and family of 4 adventure gear + a dog, well you get the picture… I average about 10.5 MPG on the Hwy, slowing down to 72 MPH allows for the engine to rev around 2100 PMs in 6th which increases the HWY MPG to 14.0 MPG when laden. A 200-mile range (maybe the 300 will have a 300-mile range) was fine when the Kidos were younger because we ended up stopping for potty stops every 2 hours. But, now we have learned to actively dehydrate the kidos and the dog through prohibition of drinking fluids while road tripping (kidding) they can last 5 hours without a pee break. So 375 range between fill-ups is about ideal for us.

Observation 1: The non-us spec 3UR-f3 (5.7) 200’s with a sub tank have the evap canister in front of the main tank, but the schematic does not show any wiring harness. Also, non-us 3UR-f3 200’s do not seem to have a vapor filter (us part #77706-60040)- indicating the emission controls are more passive in nature than the US-Spec and not controlled by the ECM. I think the target is mounting the evap canister in front of the main tank or in rear passage wing, behind the rear tire between the frame and outer body. Both locations will require an extension of hoses and maybe the wiring harness. The kit does not come with any parts (hoses, wiring, or brackets to relocate the evap canister or the vapor filter).

If possible, I would like to try to figure out a relocation that only requires additional hoses and not extending the harness, but I think that might be a pipe dream.
The non-us and us vapor canister (us part 77740-60470) looks to be about the same size as the non-us spec. So I am less concern about vapor maxing out the canister before a purge cycle being initiated by the PCM-

Observation 2: The instructions call for drilling a fill hole in the main tank- near the primary fill entrance. Seems straight forward… I think this where if anywhere there might be the opportunity to introduce an air leak into the fuel system impacting the pollution control system. This is how the Aux tank gravity feeds the main.

Observation 3: The Tembo/exel tank seems to have one vent to support filling and one fuel evaporation via the aux to main fuel filling path- this also serves a reverse vent to aid in gravity fuel transfer. The OEM sub tank seems to have one vent to support filling, two dedicated vents connected to the main and one via fuel filling path. I thought about putting a “ T” into the EVAP canister from the new Aux tank, I think that is an unnecessary complication.

Observation 4: per the instructions, the tire rack mounting bracket requires drilling holes through the rear floor, the ARB Drawers might be in the way. There is a replacement bracket that leverages the OEM spare tire lift system. Plus, to access (if required) the main tank fuel pump/sender/jet pump we will have to take the Drawers out or drop the main tank.

Observation 5: After reviewing of the Tundra service manual, eyeballing a neighbor’s Tundra and then eyeballing the 200. The EVAP system seems to be the same as the Tundra’s. My primary area of concern around throwing codes is when the system performs a self-test as it pressurizes the system to determine if there are air leaks. With the addition of the AUX tank, there will be more volume to pressurize with the addition of the AUX tank. I guess I will find out if the self-test cycles have some sort of time limit to pressurizing the system. Again, it seems this is not an issue on non-US spec 5.7 with the OEM sub tank as the evap system seems to be more passive than the US spec. I am less concern that computer will have issues with system doing what is design do and more concern about the self-test cycles.

Observation 6: The Aux fuel tank first completely fills, then effectively overflows into the main to complete the tank filling process at the pump. Simplicity, yes. One can add more fuel to the Aux tank and it will gravity feed the main. To only fill the main one will have to do a little math at the pump, or if using jerry cans, you will have add time for fuel to flow from the aux to main via the gravity feed line.

Observation 7: The distance to empty and MPG since last fill will not work unless there is a way in the TIS to change the tank size. Using the trip computer will work fine for me, the wife, on the other hand, thinks the orange empty lamp is a challenge vs. a warning.

Observation 8: When considering the relocation of the EVAP canister, it seem the orientation needs to stay similar to the original installation. Thoughts? Do you think it would work the same rotating it 90 degrees?

Thoughts and comments?

I will provide an update once the installation is completed- the shop I am having work done is committed to taking photos along the process, so I will share those as well.
 
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Bottom of the Tank- Note the gravity fuel drain, and the baffles/tank supports
IMG_1277.JPG


Rear of tank, note the through hole for the spare tire lift crank and the box for the OEM spare lift mechanism
IMG_1278.JPG

Top of the tank- and my foot
IMG_1279.JPG


Front of tank and the port to connect to the main-
IMG_1280.JPG
 
Quick update- The aux tank is in, evap is relocated and final fittings going on as I type this. Testing will begin tomorrow.

1) The shop elected to drop the main tank to drill the hole for the gravity feed hose attachment- this was to ensure there were no gas fumes and no leaks once the hose attachment fitting was installed.

2) The evap has been relocated to the rear passager side wing of the bumper- a mounting bracket and skid plate were crafted and painted. For what is worth, I have ARB steel bumper- the OEM wiring harness reached without any extensions, and the shop was able to minimize the length of hoses to allow for relocation.

3)the main, the AUX tank and new spare tire lift bracket are in. Final fittings are going on now. The spare tire might actually be a little higher than the OEM when fully retracted under the rig
I hope to get the truck back tomorrow afternoon.

It might be Monday as I have them installing a pan hard and performing a 4 wheel alignment-

Update to follow- (photos, video, heck I might need to figure out a 1200 mile road trip in order to perform 2 refills)
 
A lot of front-end work but it beats dealing with 3 loose gas cans for ever. I added a factory sub (50 liter) to my 80 years ago. One of the best things I ever did to it.
 
Glad to hear a positive update. We took measurements last week and hope to do a cardboard mockup next week for mine. It won't be as elegant as your setup though. You will be one of a small group to ever breach 400mi+ on a fillup with a 5.7. :clap:
 
Is the movement of the Cannister the same as if you had a long ranger or easier with this setup?

I see this less complicated as it gravity fills and gravity feeds. So it keeps the main tank full until this tank is empty, correct?

I had an aux tank in my 80 like CDAN. You didnt have to worry the evap canister and could hook it up just like the aussies

An extra tank is the one mod I still really want.
 
BTW, how much was it and shipping in USD? How long did it take to get here.
 
1200 USD including shipping- 250 of that was cost to ship the tank from the Netherlands to the US from Tembo- The tank is manufactured in South Africa, I contact them to see if it might be less from them it was not and their shipping was by slow boat then a freight forward from the port of Huston vs air freight from Tembo.

I think the relocation of the EVAP is the same no matter the Aux tank make. The Long Ranger adds a second EVAP.

Yes, the theory of operation of the Exel tank is it keeps the main filled until the Aux is drained. I looked at the the long ranger closely, I did not like the duel fell setup as it seemed it might add complications to the EVAP system. The Exel is KISS.

I should be picking it up on Tuesday and will work on more detailed write-up.
 
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Can't you tell we're all on the edge of our seats? #1 (or #2 next to A/T tires) mod in my mind if this is viable.
 
A long-long time ago I had 1980 Toyota 4WD pickup and I added a gravity-feed aux tank that fit above the spare tire carrier. I had an on-going problem that I never was able to fully solve. The nature of gravity-feed essentially keeps the main tank over-filled until the aux is exhausted. My charcoal canister got saturated easily and spilled fuel on the ground. Eventually I bandaided it by punching the seal out of the gas cap so it would vent. You can't do that with current evap systems.
 
I had to head out town for work. I will be picking up the rig tomorrow. The shop has been driving it at my request to exercise the EVAP system and to burn fuel. The relocation of the EVAP has been performed without extending the wiring harness or extending the hoses. The first orientation of the EVAP canister stretched the hoses resulting in a pinch one of them; it threw a code. The shop re-orientated the canister and rerouted the hoses so now there is less stress on them. Since re-routing it has not had any issues.

Regarding over filling, the postion of the gravity feed input into main effectively keeps the main 7/8's full until the aux tank is drained.

I will report back later in the week on progress.
 
I will be picking up the URJ200 (we call him, Finnbhennach (Finnbhennach - Wikipedia), the Irish white bull) this afternoon- the shop feels like it is ready to go.

YES, YES, YES! 40.4 gallons of fuel and about 400 miles range per fill up depending on my lead foot, RPMS, ladden weight, etc.

I want to give a shout out to the off-road performance shop for performing the work, AxleBoy (Axleboy Complete Automotive Service | Foreign, Domestic, Jeep, 4×4 & Custom Manufacturing) in St. Peter’s MO- They rock and are a first class operation, true craftsmen that take pride in their work. I have dreamed up some off the norm builds, and they have been able to execute the vision flawlessly. Further, they know I use our vehicles for their designed purpose, you know cruising the mall and kids shuttles- In reality, we also overland both of our vehicles extensively. They share and appreciate the journey is a round trip and share a design philosophy: design for 120% and use it 80%, go far, get home, get ready for the next adventure.

AxleBoy has performed ton’s upgrades to my wife’s JK350 (Bonnie) (RCV, re-gear, Dyna Big Brake kit, Tera44 HDs, etc.) and performed all the upgrades on my URJ200 that I did not do myself. Life gets busy; I do not have the time to always do the work myself; I trust these guys literally with lives of myself and my family.

A trusted shop is an important part of kit and is the basis for a successful journey.

For your reading enjoyment, AxleBoy sent over the below summary of the work via email. They took a ton of photos, and I will get the photos transferred to a USB drive, edited and will post them.


Work Order:
INSTALL CUSTOMER SUPPLIED EXEL MNF AUXILLARY FUEL TANK, FABRICATE MOUNTING
BRACKET TO RELOCATE EVAP CANISTER

ASSEMBLY, LENGTHEN WIRES AND HOSES AS NEEDED.

ALL ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS NEED TO BE SOLDER AND SHRINK WRAP AND WEATHER TIGHT.

TANK IS NOT SPECIFIED FOR US MODELS, AND MANUFACTURER BELIEVES THAT RELOCATING THE EVAP CANISTER WILL WORK OK.

MAKE SURE THAT NO PERMANENT MODIFICATIONS ARE PERFORMED THAT ARE NOT REVERSIBLE IN CASE THERE IS A COMPATABILITY ISSUE WITH EMISSIONS COMPONENTS.

TRACK A/T AND MATERIALS.

WE CAN MAKE NO GUARANTEE THAT AN EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS CODE OR OTHER
MIL RELATED ISSUES MAY NOT OCCUR.

**Technician Comments**
1. Removed the passenger side inner fender well to allow access to the filler neck and vent tubes/. Removed the filler neck, and associated tubes completely from the vehicle and saved
2. for later modification to be used with the new aux tank.

3. removed the spare tire/wheel from its mounting location on the vehicle, this allows access to the cross member that holds the spare tire mechanism ( winch)

4. unbolted the cross member and the mounting brackets for the cross member. This allows the tank to be mounted above the spare tire and the spare tire be in its original factory location with the new aux tank installed.

5. primed and painted the metal that was exposed under the mounting brackets for the spare tire cross member.

6. Installed the new cross member/bracket that will now be used to hold the spare tire mechanism in place.

7. Mounting this bracket required for the floor to be drilled in two spots to allow bolts to secure this bracket. ( after holes had been drilled, each hole was primed then painted to prevent rust ( This is the moment the customer stated he was okay with us drilling through the carpet instead of removing it. )

- Installed the two side mounting brackets for the new aux tank. Fitment was an issue at this point; it was required that the two brackets be trimmed slightly so that they would fit correctly. The brackets were too wide causing the bracket and tank to bind up and get stuck when putting in between the frame rails ( it's mounting position)** very little material was removed, so the structure or strength of brackets is unaffected.

- Before the tank was finally mounted in its location, it was noted that the heater hoses could be in the way, and as the tank manufacturer suggested, we had to modify the routing slightly in order to allow the tank to completely fit in its proper location. The hoses were also wire loamed and hose clamped in order to allow extra protection.


8. all hoses and wiring anywhere near the new tank, or spare tire were cleaned, and wire loamed, then safety tied to a secure location to ensure they are not pinched or contacted at any point after installation.

9. once brackets and tank were mounted in place, the spare tire winder rod had to be inserted to ensure the rod could successfully raise and lower the tire without hitting the tank. The new tank has an access port that allows the rod to go through a section of the tank. It is crucial this is aligned properly, or the spare tire will not raise and lower correctly.

10. installed they tank filler and outlet sockets. each fitting/ adapter had thread sealer applied Before installation ( manufacture recommended this step)

11. The OE filler was measured 330MM down and cut just before the bend,- the anti-glug was measured 80MM down and cut,

12. Connected the hose that joints the AUX to the factory tank

13. Connected hose from anti-glug to the 12mm T joint

14. Installed the two supplied rubber hoses to be used to create the new filler neck routing

15. The factory tank was dropped down out of the vehicle and removed the sending unit to allow the tank to be thoroughly cleaned and dried before drilling and installing the tank fitting.

16. drilled the 8.5MM hole to allow the tank fitting to be installed from the inside out.

17. the tank was then cleaned and reassembled then installed back into the vehicle.

18. All the filler/ routing hoses were clamped with good hose clamps and ensured they had an airtight leak free connection.

19. the entire system was then filled and checked for leaks.

20. This kit came with ZERO parts or info regarding relocation of the evap system.

21. Since the customer asked for us to avoid cutting and extending any electrical connections for the evap canister, we opted not to attempt to position it in front of the original gas tank, and then the customer suggested that we could place it behind the new tank between the cross-member and bumper, well the spare tire took up about every inch of spare room behind or under the aux tank. On the passenger side near the bumper/ body, there was just enough room to install the evap canister and allow it to be orientated in the same position that it was mounted originally.

22. Custom fabricated two mounting brackets that would allow the evap canister to be mounted in this tight spot. This required modification of the evap lines, but this will not be an issue down the road if the customer decides he does not like this setup.

23. THE electrical connector/ wiring WAS NOT MODIFIED IN ANY MANNER.

24. After the evap had been mounted, it was obvious that debris from the rear tire or potential damage could occur from off roading. Custom fabricated a very heavy duty skid plate that mounts flush with the bottom of the frame. The skid was designed to be used and abused. It will withstand anything you throw at.

25. The skid plate is mounted with nutserts that were installed in the frame so this can be removed very easily if needed.

26. Currently, the vehicle has about 275 miles into its first full tank (OE tank and AUX tank) no evap codes present or pending.

** the miles till empty has been reading about 160-170 since first complete fill. it appears the aux tank will continue to feed into the OE tank until the AUX runs completely empty then the OE tank will continue to work until it runs out itself. Will update after last test drive.
 
The replacement spare tire retractor frame mounts to the body and one reuses the OEM tire retractor. I have ARB/outback Drawers there is no issue with clearance. Not an issue if you have a rear mounted spare. An upgrade rear bumper is on the list, but the aux tank seemed to provide more utility to me for about the same total investment.

The instructions have you peeling back the carpet, then drilling the holes for tire retractor bracket, then reinstalling the carpet.
I did want to remove the drawers to do that, so the shop with my permission drilled through the carpet to mount the spare tire retractor bracket. I am not even sure where the 3rd row seats at this point.

The tank is fitted at three points to the frame, the frame rails and the rear cross member and looks to sit about an inch below the frame rails.

Once I pick up the rig, I will measure the spare tire height from a level floor but eyeball it looks like It might be an inch to inch and a half higher / closer to the body than OEM.
 
Hmmm...wondering if a larger AUX tank could be designed if there is no intention of using the spare tire mount or if that would sit too low to allow gravity to do it's thing?
 

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