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DirtDawg
"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
More details please, is this the cure for shaky seats? Or just a part your OCD wouldn't let you pass up?
- Thread starter
- #104
More repair needed do to previous work done. Ashtray/window switch housing rear catch/clip broken. This was apparently broken while replacing PS door rear window at some time. Tech must have just pulled stright up at rear of housing breaking hook, then tried to glue back on/in. I just replaced with new house from Dealer.
The rear hook was a solid plastic stationary piece, not meant to be pull up while hooked.
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- Thread starter
- #106
Replace missing luggage rack cover:
Our lite Snow storm sure was dirty. Too think, as kids we ate with milk, sugar & vanilla extract YUM.
I replaced this broken seal retainer with new, it's anchors by rivets that aren't on my 01LC. It covers B pillar between front & rear doors.
Our lite Snow storm sure was dirty. Too think, as kids we ate with milk, sugar & vanilla extract YUM.
I replaced this broken seal retainer with new, it's anchors by rivets that aren't on my 01LC. It covers B pillar between front & rear doors.
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- Thread starter
- #107
Replacing bleeder cap(s) that are missing or cracked is always a good idea. I'm sure, anyone that's dealt with a frozen bleeder would agree:
Re-inspect boots & coolant system for leaks, all good.
Also oil dip stick tube leaks no more, looks like O-ring did the trick.
Zero leaks is as all 100 series as it should be
Re-inspect boots & coolant system for leaks, all good.
Also oil dip stick tube leaks no more, looks like O-ring did the trick.
Zero leaks is as all 100 series as it should be
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Couvi
SILVER Star
Thank you for sharing all this valuable info, greatly appreciated!
How hard is it to remove the heater blower and replace? There is an LC near me and the seller says it's failed. I'd done a search on here and didn't really find anything, so it seems uncommon for them to fail... Just curious what I'm in for if I buy that one...
- Thread starter
- #112
One wire housing to unplug and three screws, couldn't be easier.How hard is it to remove the heater blower and replace? There is an LC near me and the seller says it's failed. I'd done a search on here and didn't really find anything, so it seems uncommon for them to fail... Just curious what I'm in for if I buy that one...
The LC near you: It could be something has jamb the fan, bad fuse, fan motor bushings froze (make squealing sound prior to bushing ceasing), wire unplugged at housing , fan switch bad, electrical issue like ground or sensor not giving proper single.
Look close at cooling system hoses including heater hoses at fire wall for swelling (sign of overheating), and coolant level. Coolant temp & level effect when fan comes on.
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #115
Thanks @jerryb.
You're welcome @Delmer.
The Redbaron is coming along nicely. I strive for showroom ready, meaning as it was in 2007 and ready to go coast to coast. Naturally I can't get 100% at reasonable cost, nor can I predict what part may fail down the road. I've done many little things like repairing & replacing bad bolts or missing screws, I've not listed on broad. In fact I'm buying a new tap (didn't have correct size) to clean threads for a bolt I've on order. I'm also ordering one more bolt I found busted last night. My parts guy is cool with even the smallest $2.00 parts I order. Like I've said; I spend a great deal of time correcting what others have done wrong, and it all starts with inspecting. This rig is by far the cleanest I've worked, I'd put it side by side with The King (my 01LC), once I'm done.
Once I've gotten these rigs under control, they should only need factory PM schedule with a few of my personal tweaks to PM. Sure stuff will still fail, but not because of poor PM or workmanship.
A slight change in plans:
I'm working up a new parts list for Timing Belt. T-belts is not due for another ~10K, but going to go-head and do now.
May do fan bracket while in there, not at bad idea at 173K miles.
May also do new spark plugs which helps protect coils When to replace Ignition coils. and puts plugs on same PM schedule with T-belt (90K miles).
Plus I'm going too do balance of fluids, they're also are not due yet, but will baseline them all now anyway with synthetic. Here is where I'm going to really misses the dip stick of our older (pre 04) transmission, they're so easy to flush these are not.
Looks like I may not be prefecting body paint and interior. Was kind of looking forward to seeing a shine that look as if I could put your hand into. Like @Manhattan & @landylover21 the two best I've ever seen on a 100 series.
It's probable best, as then my girl would never forgive for not giving to her if she saw that.
It's her favorite color and she has know idea how beautiful this pearl would buff-out.
You're welcome @Delmer.
The Redbaron is coming along nicely. I strive for showroom ready, meaning as it was in 2007 and ready to go coast to coast. Naturally I can't get 100% at reasonable cost, nor can I predict what part may fail down the road. I've done many little things like repairing & replacing bad bolts or missing screws, I've not listed on broad. In fact I'm buying a new tap (didn't have correct size) to clean threads for a bolt I've on order. I'm also ordering one more bolt I found busted last night. My parts guy is cool with even the smallest $2.00 parts I order. Like I've said; I spend a great deal of time correcting what others have done wrong, and it all starts with inspecting. This rig is by far the cleanest I've worked, I'd put it side by side with The King (my 01LC), once I'm done.
Once I've gotten these rigs under control, they should only need factory PM schedule with a few of my personal tweaks to PM. Sure stuff will still fail, but not because of poor PM or workmanship.
A slight change in plans:
I'm working up a new parts list for Timing Belt. T-belts is not due for another ~10K, but going to go-head and do now.
May do fan bracket while in there, not at bad idea at 173K miles.
May also do new spark plugs which helps protect coils When to replace Ignition coils. and puts plugs on same PM schedule with T-belt (90K miles).
Plus I'm going too do balance of fluids, they're also are not due yet, but will baseline them all now anyway with synthetic. Here is where I'm going to really misses the dip stick of our older (pre 04) transmission, they're so easy to flush these are not.
Looks like I may not be prefecting body paint and interior. Was kind of looking forward to seeing a shine that look as if I could put your hand into. Like @Manhattan & @landylover21 the two best I've ever seen on a 100 series.
It's probable best, as then my girl would never forgive for not giving to her if she saw that.
It's her favorite color and she has know idea how beautiful this pearl would buff-out.
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- Thread starter
- #116
Yes it did "help" with "shaky seat" sound from vibrating at this one point.
Restoration = OCD to some I suppose.
For me restoration means even the smallest parts brought back to within factory spec. I replaced these because seat was rocking in hinge. Eventually these old plastic bushing would have completely failed, leaving metal to metal. Then it would produce a nasty metal to metal clank, damaging the more expensive hinge & pin. PM is about, spending pennies on small stuff. And yes in this case it's was also part of chasing chatter & squeaks to get a nice quite ride.
Shaky seat or leather rubbing squeaking from vibration:
One of the issues in all 100 series has always been; seat leather rubbing. Perfect wheel/tire balance will stop vibration, and reduce or eliminate "shaky seat" sounds more than anything. The stock 100 series tires/wheels are very difficult to balance. Once a prefect balance on stock tires/wheels is achieved you'll not hear "shaky seat" bad seat bushing or not.
I use a tire shop with 5/150 finger plate & Toyota cone hub on a Road Force balancing machine, to get very best wheel balance I can. This helps more than anything with "shaky seat". The difficult parts is finding a tech that can properly use machine. At a Discount tire near me they have one, but maybe 2 out of 10 tech know how to use.
Many Toyota Dealers have this equipment as they learned long ago how difficult our stock 100 series wheels are to balance.
You can use your 2001 on many specs, but at minimum will need to supplement with online https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInf...nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_search_docs_page. As the 06-07 have many differences like with T-body, intake manifold, VVti heads, transmission, charcoal canister etc...
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Regarding T-Belt R&R parts list,
Will you be using all genuine Toyota parts, or mixing in Denso parts where applicable etc. I'm slowly acquiring my parts for the TB job I'll be doing later this year- and planned on genuine T parts, even though could save some $$ with Denso, Aisin alternates.
Post your parts list if you get a chance. Would be a good reference point.
Will you be using all genuine Toyota parts, or mixing in Denso parts where applicable etc. I'm slowly acquiring my parts for the TB job I'll be doing later this year- and planned on genuine T parts, even though could save some $$ with Denso, Aisin alternates.
Post your parts list if you get a chance. Would be a good reference point.
- Thread starter
- #118
Toyota Dealer Parts only is my plan. I buy 98% of my parts from Toyota Dealer.
Whereas I'm ok with using some aftermarket, and Dense & Aisin are what Toyota uses in many application. I've had & heard of issue with boot leg products/parts. I trust my local Toyota Dealer for the few dollars more that it may cost, especially when it comes to mission critical applications. That said, even Toyota Dealer has defective parts now-an-then but it's rare.
- Thread starter
- #119
Pull the console trim to remove the controller & wires that belong to headrest DVD, and terminate the hot & ground wires for it. Also pulled the chrome trim off from around shifter, since chrome is peel off.
I've don't remove boot any longer. I've found it is much easier to just twist off knob of Hi LOW shifter
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