Builds Father, Son, and the Unholy UTE (1 Viewer)

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Welder details? Looking for a tig eventually
 
Took a few more hints from @Mieser and make a cardboard template with lots of tape for perfect alignment. Pictures are better than my words
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Found a little time out in the shop this weekend. Josh got the from of the engine put back together and I got rear boxed and welded up.
 
We also welded in a cover for the rear heater, and are halfway through welding the other bottom side piece into the rear. So nice to see it getting boxed in!!!

I like you new picture Josh! It has been a huge joy to be working with you in the shop.
 
Decided before a box in anymore I needed to get the roll cage finish and welded in. Plan to take the Center roll bar tight to the rear tailgate, but realized that I need to be able to take the access cover on and off. Played with fitment of the bar to allow enough access to install panel and still have room for the seat.
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I need to order material to make sliders, as they will be 12" longer than normal with stretching the frame. I was thinking of using 2x2 or 2x3 1/4 wall for the main slider than some DOM for teh step/bumpout. Really just trying to save some $$$ over using 1 3/4" DOM for the main.

How do the strength of these metals compare?
 
id say use 3/16" 2x2 or 2x3 and HREW tubing for the outer. add one more frame support and you've added more strength than DOM would add. i do know you like over kill though 1/4 would not hurt. the outer tube can be replaced easy enough if it gets bashed. everything transfers tot he main slider
 
id say use 3/16" 2x2 or 2x3 and HREW tubing for the outer. add one more frame support and you've added more strength than DOM would add. i do know you like over kill though 1/4 would not hurt. the outer tube can be replaced easy enough if it gets bashed. everything transfers tot he main slider

Thanks. You got me pegged on the overkill guy. Figured that since this car is going to be a foot longer, it is going to use these sliders quite a bit more than the standard 80, so I ordered 2x3 1/4 wall and I did upgrade to DOM on the pipe. I have bent DOM using a rock to pivot before on sliders, and DOM is XXX% stronger than HREW, so would rather error to the overkill side.

The few items I found on sliders agreed with what you are thinking that the rectangle pipe is stronger than the DOM on the single axis, directional stress, so it makes sense to use this on the inner structure that will only take the vertical stresses.
 
Speaking of Overkill
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Basically came out as planned, 5 pages back on this thread.


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Josh has a name in mind finally. Time will tell if it sticks.



Yoda

Given the plan to put star wars graphics on it, and that it is a "yota" it may stick.
 
Also, think we have a choice on color. Green Tea Metallic from Honda CRV. G526M paint code


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Decided The best way to fill-in the front side what was the rear door was to cut and weld in a filler panel.
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We are about ready to weld in this lower section, however I'm thinking about going ahead and por 15 painting as I'm not sure how well I can get back here after it is welded shut. I did head out to the junkyard today and found a vent to put in. @yohavos advice.
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Here is vent and location.
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@2fpower What did you snag the vent off of?
 

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