Builds Fj40 Daily and Wheeler build (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter White Stripe
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- #182
So I added another leaf in the packs which leveled it out. I'm debating flipping the rear shackle mount to get a steeper shackle angle. Right now I'm getting a lot of body roll around corners and a lot of dive when braking. Much worse than with the 40 Springs. Thoughts? I tried flexing it out. But with the axle moved back it was hitting the fender hard so I stopped. It's got a lot more flex in it. I think it's going to be too much actually. I could have probably gone at least another 6 inches.
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- #183
Flipped shackle brackets 180 to get a little better shackle angle and stiffen the ride. Was getting too much body roll with super leaned back shackles.
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- #184
New traction bar mount welded on. Just used a ruff stuff bracket. I'm getting tired of making my own brackets these days.
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- #185
Started cleaning up my frame. I am going to box the rear of the frame and weld the already boxed sections. Try and get the frame to flex less.
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- #186
Going to be replacing the tub soon. I removed the rear seats. While at it i extended the tubing so that in the new tub they will fold up better.
Now they take up less space folded up then the original jump seats. I'm going to have to add a small bar on the roll cage for them to hook too. I'm also going to make the mounts on the floor different.
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- #187
I removed the emblems too. Last time they were installed I was a teenager. I measured the hole placement to mount on new tub.
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- #189
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- #190
Removed my roll cage, been a while since I dropped the top, man I love 40s with the top off. I hate driving without a rollback of any sort. Makes me nervous. Also since my cage is out I now have no seat belt, so I used a ratchet strap for mow lol.
Then I removed the sliders and rear bumper, the sliders need to be removed because I will have tour cut the rockers on the new tub.
I still had some of the factory sound deadening on the driver side to remove. 1/3 just lifted by tugging on it, tons of dirt n crap underneath. I used a heat gun and scraper on the rest. Part of me wants to put the lizard skin on all of the firewall, but I think I will stop at the foot wells.
View attachment 1424944
Then I removed the sliders and rear bumper, the sliders need to be removed because I will have tour cut the rockers on the new tub.
I still had some of the factory sound deadening on the driver side to remove. 1/3 just lifted by tugging on it, tons of dirt n crap underneath. I used a heat gun and scraper on the rest. Part of me wants to put the lizard skin on all of the firewall, but I think I will stop at the foot wells.
View attachment 1424944
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Tub looks pretty damn clean??
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- #192
Ya it's pretty decent. I was on the fence about repair or replace-I mean really on the fence. The factory tubs have a lot of places for corrosion to hide due to 40 year old spot weld construction. So I could have spent 1 to 2k fixing it, but still have rust that I can't see show itself years from now. Since I have the money now, the aluminum tub is constructed in such a way that it's much easier to keep corrosion off. Plus I sold the tub to someone on mud, so that offsets the price of aluminum tub, as does the current Canadian to us dollar exchange rate. Anyway I hope this works out ok.
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- #193
I mixed up a solution to do some rust removal using electrolysis. Never done this before. Started out with a tail light guard with excessive rust under the cheap cracked undercoatingredients. Well see what happens.
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- #194
I also removed the tub from my cruiser. I tried to remove it as cleanly as possible since I sold the old tub. I did ok, the floor did not come apart like the aqualu video showed and I had to cut further back about an inch behind the seem and just cut the floor. The floor seam just wouldn't come apart despite cutting the spot welds. I have no idea why. It was a bit of a fight. Anyway, old tub is on a pallet. Man I hate seeing my cruiser like this. I hope this was a good idea and the new tub fits ok.
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- #195
The electrolysis rust removal seems to work ok. Got a couple pieces to do.
Also pulled my cruiser in the shop for the weekend. The list of work is kind da long. Looks like I should make a fj45
Since I'm boxing the frame and removing rust I need to take off some frame rivets. I use a air hammer, when I'm on a role it takes about 30 seconds a rivet.
Also pulled my cruiser in the shop for the weekend. The list of work is kind da long. Looks like I should make a fj45
Since I'm boxing the frame and removing rust I need to take off some frame rivets. I use a air hammer, when I'm on a role it takes about 30 seconds a rivet.
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- #196
Flipped the rear springs and doing test fit of tub...
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- #197
So mocking up the tub is taking a while. The beads on the top rail I had to grind to fit my soft top rails. My hard top sides don't fit at all. I have to call aqualu. Also notice the gap in the door near the striker? I have to look into this as well. Once those are fixed I can continue drilling holes for seats and stuff.
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- #198
So I emailed aqualu today and sent them the above door pic. For the striker to engage the latch it would have to be spaced out 5/8" from the b pillar. I'm OK with 1/16" but not 5/8. In addition to that and the hard top sides not fitting, the Trans floor cutout is smaller to fit their Trans tunnel. But it's so small their is no way I could pull the sm465 out to service it unless I removed the motor Trans and tcase together. I have no problem modifying the old stock tunnel to work and cutting the floor hole bigger. But I'm not doing that until I know for sure my doors and hard top sides will fit without mickey mouse mods. I hope aqualu will come through in this. Worst case I may need another tub made. That would be considerable expense on their part. The attached pic is from the aqualu gallery. These are the kind of door gaps I want and what I was hoping to pay for in a tub...
Redgrrr
I have a problem with 40s
Not suggesting you shouldn't be disappointed in the fit and door gaps but can your latch side opening get better by adjusting the front side?
My buddy owns a body shop and after market doors, fenders hoods ...ECT always take time and manipulation to make it look right.
My buddy owns a body shop and after market doors, fenders hoods ...ECT always take time and manipulation to make it look right.
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- #200
That is a good point. In Aqualus customer photo gallery of customers rigs, all of them have really good door gaps. That leads me to think something is funny with mine, but even then I also have the hardtop sides that don't fit. I'll talk to aqualu this week and see what they say
