Is this grease ok for our wheel bearings? (1 Viewer)

[98 SNAKE EATER]

We have truck loads of this stuff at work and use it on MUCH larger bearings, but they're not exactly high speed

I'll be repacking my rear bearings for the first time next week (keep in mind my rig has over 400k on the odometer)

Would this be ok for a repack?

Kind confused with the NGLI 1/2/LB ratings

 

[mct75]

I would use a nlgi gc-lb but I'm sure that will work in a pinch.

 

[chap79]

considering that I just did my rear hubs this past weekend at 220k and there was NO grease at all in the bearings, they were running in gear oil. I think you could just spit on them and get 100k. YMMV

 

[DirtScaresMe]

I use moly knuckle grease. One tube of grease for the whole rig.

Specifically it's Valvoline Syn Power.

 

[mct75]

I use moly knuckle grease. One tube of grease for the whole rig.

Even U joints? I read that was bad for them.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

considering that I just did my rear hubs this past weekend at 220k and there was NO grease at all in the bearings, they were running in gear oil. I think you could just spit on them and get 100k. YMMV

Good to know

Mine developed just a mild axle seal leak a few months ago, otherwise I'd leave it be

Nothing major, just some sweating...

In fact, I've been checking the level constantly and have yet to see a drop.

Just curious, but did you replace the bearings or just to a repack?

I have a new set on hand just in case, but the consensus seems to be that the rear bearings rarely ever need replacing

 

[ewillis]

I use moly knuckle grease. One tube of grease for the whole rig.
Specifically it's Valvoline Syn Power.

I'd just use the Lucas red n tacky for bearings...moly for birfs.

 

[DirtScaresMe]

Even U joints? I read that was bad for them.

It probably is, but does that mean failure 5 miles earlier? 5 feet earlier? 50,000 miles earlier?

It's not like all moly grease even has the same amount so it's hard to take iron clad answers seriously.

I just believe that regular maintenance and inspection is 100x more important than whether the toilet paper should unroll from the top or bottom.

 

[chap79]

Good to know

Mine developed just a mild axle seal leak a few months ago, otherwise I'd leave it be

Nothing major, just some sweating...

In fact, I've been checking the level constantly and have yet to see a drop.

Just curious, but did you replace the bearings or just to a repack?

I have a new set on hand just in case, but the consensus seems to be that the rear bearings rarely ever need replacing

I replaced them since I had a new set on hand as well, but they still looked great. Now they're sitting on the shelf as spares.

 

[BILT4ME]

Just make sure that whatever grease you use is compatible with the oil in your differential. Since MOST FF rear axles use a gear oil flooded rear bearings (ours have a seal inside the spindle that sort-of holds it at bay), the grease and oil must be compatible in the case of contamination.

Most lithium based greases are compatible with standard gear oil. It's when you start doing synthetics that you may run into issues or if this happens to be a urea based greased.

Do an interwebs search for a grease compatibility chart. IT will break down what you need, but you MUST read the labels on what you're going to use to determine it's makeup.

I use Lucas RedNTacky 2 in the bearings and standard Dino Gear oil 80W90 in the diff on front/rear.

 

[cartercd]

I would not use this for wheel bearings. The FSM calls for an MP (multi purpose) grease, which is NLGI #2 suitable for wheel bearings. Looking at the label on the drum you pictured, this is EP (extreme pressure) grease with LB designation. LB means it is suitable for chassis lubrication. If it was also suitable for wheel bearings it would say GC-LB. The Chevron data sheet also mentions non-disc wheel bearings for applications.

Your bearings probably wouldn't blow up if you used this, but I'd use a grease that clearly meets specs.

 

[inkpot]

Just curious, but why would there be a different grease for disc wheel bearings vs non disc wheel bearings?

 

[mct75]

IIRC disc brakes run a lot hotter, so the grease requires a higher "drop point." Disc brake grease can be used on drums but not the other way around.

 

[mechanist]

I was looking at the archoil stuff. There was an Aussie guy on YouTube servicing the rear axle using this stuff - I can't find the video. It auto loaded while I was watching Jay Leon's Garage. The washout rate is really low.

http://www.archoil.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/8100.pdf

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Thanks for the info.

We use the Chevron stuff on just about everything at work (including wheel/axle bearings), but they're just a little more heavy duty than our Cruisers

Just picked up a couple tubs of Lucas R&T

 

[LINUS]

Without reading all that tiny print, it seemed all that really was the deciding factor for FAS / birfs was moly content.

Moly = good.

I just use my Valvoline semi-synth (dura-blend? - synth-blend? I forget the name).
I keep ~1/2 dzn tubes, and it's my main greasegun.

I keep toothpaste tube white lithium for little crap & a marine grease for all boat related.

Beyond being super simplistic, I am a firm believer that if you are in the general correct family of grease & keep on it, it beats the snot out of using "SuperDuper PurplePooper" -hi-dollar, psychedelic colored grease once 150K or a decade ago, whichever came 1st.

Frankly I use cheaper hypoid in my gears since I dump it semi-routine, so for me fancy purple, Lucas, whoever - would be $$$ better spent on hard parts or Mobil 1 oil as I do leave the oil be more than the diffs & knuckles.

For me it's dirty water inclusion that will hurt more & faster than cheaper diff fluid.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Even U joints? I read that was bad for them.

Meh, roller bearings and needle bearings and ujoints... these automotive greases are usually 2-3% moly, sometimes 5%, not enough to cause skating or other issues. Run it if you got it.

 

[ewillis]

We have truck loads of this stuff at work and use it on MUCH larger bearings, but they're not exactly high speed

I'll be repacking my rear bearings for the first time next week (keep in mind my rig has over 400k on the odometer)

Would this be ok for a repack?

Kind confused with the NGLI 1/2/LB ratings

If only Chevron replaced the "A" with a "U"...that would be a very interesting lube

 

[maxamillion2345]

If only Chevron replaced the "A" with a "U"...that would be a very interesting lube

We've got some multifak at work, I always stress the Fak when I sat it.

 

[DirtScaresMe]

"Use it in the shop, the driveway, and the bedroom."