Scored 2007 LC w/174K AHC (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Knuckle cleaning, inspecting and recondition also went well, nothing remarkable. Just standard wire brushing and marine greasing of bare metal. Axle bushing and needle bearings cleaned up & inspected nicely.

New seal and greased up ready to go:

Packed the bearings then readied axle hub for install. Being careful not to over fill the cavity with grease, which would retain excessive heat without some air space:

 

[2001LC]

I now suspect the wheel bearings where serviced at least one more time since Dealer records at 90K indicated. I say this because both front rotors have been replaced, as I found the tell-tell hammer marks to break loose on axle hub from rotor, additionally rotors are 32MM thick.

Wheel bearing also looked good with zero pitting on bearings, I've not seen that before. Claw washer was scored on more on one side then other, which is common of loose wheel bearing. So I flipped them good side in. Snap Ring (SR) gap was a bit to wide, hub flange & axle teeth were passable (minimal wear). All in all the best I've seen in some time, but over due for service as i suspected. I set breakaway (BW) preload at 12.5lb both sides, and was able to get DS hub flange to SR gap down to 0.15mm with a new 2.4mm SR, PS gap down to >0.04 with a 2.6mm SR. Hub flange were still serviceable, so I keep them.

Edited:
It took 72ft-lbf torque on adjusting nut of PS wheel bearing to get 12.5 BW preload. The FSM doesn't give a maximum torque here. But I become concern when I go much over the 47ft-lbf FSM states for locking nut. So when I need a high torque much over 50 or 60ft-lbf on adjusting nut, I schedule bearings for replacement on next service in 30K miles.

You'll see later in thread, the decision was made to replace wheel bearings & races now.
Page # 8 post #147

So install begins:

I really like that marine grease as in holds in, makes next service a snap. It also protects my parts from rust and reduce water entry.

All ready for snap ring.
Notice the can of degreaser (DX330) great stuff for prepping paint. I also use on rotor before brake pads touch them and axle hub flange studs before blue lock-tight and torque nuts to 24ft-lbf.

I finished up yesterday once I was able to get the last 2.6mm snap ring in the state of Colorado.
Once I installed it and measured snap ring to hub flange gaps with my "puller set-up" on to insure very tight & true reading, I torqued on the calipers bolts to 90ft-lbf, brake line braket 24ft-lbf, speed sensor wire to 9ft-lbf & speed sensor to 71in-lbf on. Then mounted wheels & tires, replacing those PITA wheel locks with standard lugs torqued to 97ft-lbf.

Stock photo from my 01.

 

[2001LC]

Before test drive, I lubed the propeller shaft slip yokes & spiders.

I was on a roll, and felt it a good idea for test drive to lube propellers first. On a roll until I pulled out my pneumatic (Harbor Freight) grease gun. It's great once I get grease gun flowing, but getting it primed is a 30 minutes job on a good day... PITA. But it really works well for grease the propeller shaft slip yokes and spiders.

A little trick I learned; is to massage slip yoke seal with grease, then used the pneumatic power and compression of drive train to pump yoke in and out.
Worked like a charm again, as grease passed the seal(s)

 

[2001LC]

Test drive went great, which was the first since before I pulled intake manifold. I noted a slight low band take off hesitation before work began on engine which is now gone. I feel this had a great deal to do with new intake gasket, and to a lessor extend the minor tune up. Power band felt great, love the pep!

Dive-train & steering was quiet and tight with no remarkable vibration or sounds...sweet.

No leaks observed, but will put some miles on over the next few weeks and keep checking.

I've still some minor mechanic stuff to deal with like fluids, but the heavy lifting is done.

All in ALL i'm pleased.

Oh and the blue tooth hands free speak phone and steering wheel audio controls are cool! I would like that in my 01

 

[Delmer]

Nice work and write up

 

[2001LC]

Thanks, hope you benefit from it!

I'm really going to hate selling this one. Not only is it a sweet ride, but only 3,251 2007 Land Cruiser's were made for the US market. This was made in February of 2007, making one of the last series 100 built. Consider that and it's color, makes this rare find indeed, IMHO.

I'd love to know what serial number was last built series 100?

 

[04UZJ100]

Exceptional quality work.

What sort of grease do you use both in bearings and your gun?

 

[sean2202]

Why sell it? Once you have those newer amenities you mention, it is hard to go back.

Cruiser outfitters has a nice snap ring set that makes finding the right snap ring much easier.

How were the tie rod ends and ball joints?

 

[2001LC]

Exceptional quality work.

What sort of grease do you use both in bearings and your gun?

I use all Mobil One (M1) wheel bearing grease #2. In fact I use all M1 lubes, good stuff and keeps things simple. In years 98-02 I use M1 syn MV ATF. I need to do some research on 03-07 before using it on those 5 spd transmission. I'd like to use M1 AFT in them, but if I end up with any doubt, I'll just stick with Toyota recommended is WS (IIRC).

I use marine grease for rubbing parts as a rust preventive and water seal.

Why sell it? Once you have those newer amenities you mention, it is hard to go back.

Cruiser outfitters has a nice snap ring set that makes finding the right snap ring much easier.

How were the tie rod ends and ball joints?

View attachment 1427954

It will be hard to sell, but that has always been the plan and I'll stick with it. Besides if I keep my girl friend wants (she loves the color), then I'd not have funds for next restoration.

Thanks for the picture & tip. I happened to pre-order two snap rings guessing (wrongly) at size, before doing my tear down gap check pictured. So I end up waiting until final assemble before picking up the 2.6mm. I buy most stuff at a Local near by Dealer. I've had a relation with them for 14 years, and returns are easy. If I boughtfull packs I'd have about 2 dozen snap rings lying around from just last year, that would most likely never get used. I've found 2.4mm & 2.6mm is what I most often use above 150K miles, once did I used a 2.8mm.

Tear down pre gap check pic (again). The factory standard 2.2 was on which they actually measure 2.16mm:

@cruiseroutfit for sure has best Deals & price and is OEM. I'd buy from them in a heartbeat, thanks for pointing them out.

TRE, all ball joints and their boots look good. Also steering Rack had been replaced at some point. TRE ball nut seem a bit loose and DS motor mount bolts were ready to fall out. I'm sure that was whomever installed the rack. So checked rack bolts just in case, which were good and tight, so all now checks out good in front end.

I now need to go throughout AHC & T-bar and setup. Also I'm going to take hard look at all control bushing front & rear.

 

[bctlex]

What is that tool that I circle in read? Look like something really useful to have in my tool box. I have looked around at local parts store, have not seen anything that would do this.

 

[bumpersignal]

Sweet! Those headrests are clean I assume they're not oem? I want!

 

[2001LC]

View attachment 1428651

What is that tool that I circle in read? Look like something really useful to have in my tool box. I have looked around at local parts store, have not seen anything that would do this.

View attachment 1428650

It's just a standard puller been lying around my tool box. But could be 30 or 50 years old. I've no idea where you can get one.

Sweet! Those headrests are clean I assume they're not oem? I want!

They are after market from what I can tell.

 

[bucfl]

Thanks for the pic of the drive shaft. I greased mine a few weeks ago but did not realize I still had more grease to fill until I saw your pics.

Your skills are impressive. Would like to wrench like that someday. It would be helpful to have a spare ride for times like that.

 

[bucfl]

View attachment 1428651

What is that tool that I circle in read? Look like something really useful to have in my tool box. I have looked around at local parts store, have not seen anything that would do this.

View attachment 1428650

Check out harbor freight. Crank puller.

 

[planomateo]

Thanks, hope you benefit from it!

I'm really going to hate selling this one. Not only is it a sweet ride, but only 3,251 2007 Land Cruiser's were made for the US market. This was made in February of 2007, making one of the last series 100 built. Consider that and it's color, makes this rare find indeed, IMHO.

I'd love to know what serial number was last built series 100?

I have a 02/07 build, last four of the vin 0652. What says you?

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the pic of the drive shaft. I greased mine a few weeks ago but did not realize I still had more grease to fill until I saw your pics.

Your skills are impressive. Would like to wrench like that someday. It would be helpful to have a spare ride for times like that.

Use caution when filling propeller shaft slip yokes, and make sure weight on wheel (on ground) or jack stands under rear differential. This keeps yokes in neutral positions. Once filled grease zerk can temporally be removed to relieve pressure. Bounce up & down on bumper or short drive will remove/pushes a little grease out, while zerk out.

Basically when lubing with a grease gun the idea is to push out old grease replacing with new. So pump until clean grease is seen. It just these seal are incredibly tight pressure build up may damage other parts from hydraulic pressure.

Lubing propeller shaft Risky (AKA Drive Shaft)
Too Much Grease in Drive Shaft?

I have a 02/07 build, last four of the vin 0652. What says you?

1331

 

[2001LC]

Worked on some lite duty stuff, some of which is cleaning up other mechanics work "as usual".
Pulled seats to remove headrest, clean under and reattach bottom seat rear flaps. These flaps, as I call them, were apparently pulled loose during headrest install.

Pictures really help me out. Looks like I need to work PS a bit more to full secure.

Where DS look perfectly secured.

 

[Couvi]

Worked on some lite duty stuff, some of which is cleaning up other mechanics work "as usual".
Pulled seats to remove headrest, clean under and reattach bottom seat rear flaps. These flaps, as I call them, were apparently pulled loose during headrest install.

View attachment 1429286
Pictures really help me out. Looks like I need to work PS a bit more to full secure.
View attachment 1429287

Where DS look perfectly secured.

View attachment 1429288

Do you lubricate the power seat tracks when you pull the seats as well? Is there a good way to lubricate the tracks without pulling seats? I have a very sticky passenger seat (inside track) and have tried to oil it put am having trouble. Seems taking seat out (not sure yet how hard this is) may be the only way to service and clean. It's fascinating watching you fix up your truck, top notch!

 

[2001LC]

Do you lubricate the power seat tracks when you pull the seats as well? Is there a good way to lubricate the tracks without pulling seats? I have a very sticky passenger seat (inside track) and have tried to oil it put am having trouble. Seems taking seat out (not sure yet how hard this is) may be the only way to service and clean. It's fascinating watching you fix up your truck, top notch!

You can grease in place, but factory grease holds in pretty well from what I saw. Too much grease will attract sand. High pressure air helps when cleaning seats in or out. The issue is more with crud/dirt/sand. Which the area between console is the worst and can only effectively be cleaned with seat out.
After vacuumed, with carpet foam clean applied:

After lite cleaning.

It is a 15 minute job pulling out. Spread plastic covers, from back along seat rails releasing rear pins/clips, then pull straight out release front pin/clips. Remove 4 bolts. Lift front and prop up with piece of wood, so you can disconnect wire housing(s) and release tie strap (don't remove just release with small prob inserted into back.

Here you can see Screw mechanism which has grease on as well as rials. Both must be keep clean.

Older 100's have only one wire block housing, this 07 had three.

 

[2001LC]

Some lite second row bench seat work, cleaning out the marbles & smelly's.