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- #161
Pulled the front axle hopefully for the last time. I figured I would freshen up the paint while in the middle of a knuckle swap.
Builds 76 Project Silver Back (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SMG
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- Thread starter
- #162
While waiting on all my parts to show up for my knuckle swap/rebuild. I decided to add some bling to my engine and paint all the pulleys. I could have just spray bombed everything, but I figured I might as well take the time and use some 2 part epoxy.
I also reinstalled my exhaust manifolds.
I also reinstalled my exhaust manifolds.
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- #163
Received my Tatton Rear driveshaft a couple of weeks ago. This measures roughly 20" long.
I'm still having a hard time locating the PN's for the 11mm driveshaft bolts,nuts and washers. I guess I need to call Kurt.
I'm still having a hard time locating the PN's for the 11mm driveshaft bolts,nuts and washers. I guess I need to call Kurt.
- Thread starter
- #164
Update, Finally got the painted front axle back under the 40. Hopefully this is the last time for awhile.
Started on the large pattern knuckle swap.
Thanks to @MOTOV8R and his generosity, I was able to get my knuckles centered.
At first, my numbers weren't making sense. I then realized the fixed end of the tool has to come from the bottom with the nut on top. At this point, I am very confident they are as centered.
I installed all new knuckle studs and Trail Gears rock rings and wipers.
Started on the large pattern knuckle swap.
Thanks to @MOTOV8R and his generosity, I was able to get my knuckles centered.
At first, my numbers weren't making sense. I then realized the fixed end of the tool has to come from the bottom with the nut on top. At this point, I am very confident they are as centered.
I installed all new knuckle studs and Trail Gears rock rings and wipers.
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- Thread starter
- #165
Slow progress but I installed my spindles and hubs today.
Still haven't bent over the locking tabs over as my pull scale is reading kinda high. I may have to back off the adjusting nut to get a lower lbs pull.
Here is the grease I used.
I sure wish I could use my Aisin hubs, but my birf axles are the longer version.
I thought I read somewhere that you can use a fender washer on the end of the axle to be able to run Aisin short body hubs on the longer birf axles. (Maybe not).
I might just run the Warns until I can afford some Longfields. Thats gonna be a long time from now as I have so much more to do!
To paint or not to paint the Warn body hubs?
Still haven't bent over the locking tabs over as my pull scale is reading kinda high. I may have to back off the adjusting nut to get a lower lbs pull.
Here is the grease I used.
I sure wish I could use my Aisin hubs, but my birf axles are the longer version.
I thought I read somewhere that you can use a fender washer on the end of the axle to be able to run Aisin short body hubs on the longer birf axles. (Maybe not).
I might just run the Warns until I can afford some Longfields. Thats gonna be a long time from now as I have so much more to do!
To paint or not to paint the Warn body hubs?
Man, that's looking sharp.
- Thread starter
- #167
So I think I need to rename the title of my build to (1 Step Forward 3 Steps Back).
I'm currently waiting for my Warn hub rebuild kit to arrive. Meanwhile I started poking around the engine and noticed how dirty/blackish the stagnant coolant was. I am hoping this is because the engine has sat around so long without seeing a lot of run time.
After doing a lot of research on the web,
some say this could be caused by a bad head gasket or crack in the block or heads causing exhaust gases to intermix with the coolant.
Hopefully this is not the case, but while I have the dog house off I figured better safe than sorry.
Off came the heads.
So far, no cracks have been found and the cylinder bores look really good.
The head gasket was really nasty and there was a ton of gunk, rust and black slime in the coolant passages. Most of the blackish slime was settled near the back of number 8 and 7 coolant passage ways which leads me to believe this is caused from stagnant coolant sitting there for so long.
Keep in mind, this is a 93 Chevy truck block that was totaled with roughly 19,000 according to the car fax.
I was able to suck out most of the black stuff with a smaller hose connected to my shop vac, along with a numerous amount of flushing.
My biggest worry is the amount of flakey reddish rust in the passage ways that may clog my radiator.
My plans are to install a coolant filter and to flush the system over and over once I get it running again.
I'm currently waiting for my Warn hub rebuild kit to arrive. Meanwhile I started poking around the engine and noticed how dirty/blackish the stagnant coolant was. I am hoping this is because the engine has sat around so long without seeing a lot of run time.
After doing a lot of research on the web,
some say this could be caused by a bad head gasket or crack in the block or heads causing exhaust gases to intermix with the coolant.
Hopefully this is not the case, but while I have the dog house off I figured better safe than sorry.
Off came the heads.
So far, no cracks have been found and the cylinder bores look really good.
The head gasket was really nasty and there was a ton of gunk, rust and black slime in the coolant passages. Most of the blackish slime was settled near the back of number 8 and 7 coolant passage ways which leads me to believe this is caused from stagnant coolant sitting there for so long.
Keep in mind, this is a 93 Chevy truck block that was totaled with roughly 19,000 according to the car fax.
I was able to suck out most of the black stuff with a smaller hose connected to my shop vac, along with a numerous amount of flushing.
My biggest worry is the amount of flakey reddish rust in the passage ways that may clog my radiator.
My plans are to install a coolant filter and to flush the system over and over once I get it running again.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
Slow progress but I installed my spindles and hubs today.
Still haven't bent over the locking tabs over as my pull scale is reading kinda high. I may have to back off the adjusting nut to get a lower lbs pull.
View attachment 1419428
View attachment 1419429
Here is the grease I used.
View attachment 1419430
I sure wish I could use my Aisin hubs, but my birf axles are the longer version.
I thought I read somewhere that you can use a fender washer on the end of the axle to be able to run Aisin short body hubs on the longer birf axles. (Maybe not).
I might just run the Warns until I can afford some Longfields. Thats gonna be a long time from now as I have so much more to do!
View attachment 1419435
To paint or not to paint the Warn body hubs?
View attachment 1419437
Your spacer idea seemed reasonable. The warn hubs work fine though.
- Thread starter
- #169
That's kinda what I was thinking, but since I have so many other things going on with the build, I'll just use the Warns for now and design some spacers in my free time when I upgrade to Aisins.
- Thread starter
- #170
Warn hubs rebuilt,
- Thread starter
- #171
Received my new front Bilstein shocks today.
- Thread starter
- #172
Well life has kept me away for awhile, hopefully I can start spending more time with the 40.
Finished welding up my new Drag/Tie Rod ends. These are 1.25" DOM tube, .125" wall ID with Low range weld in bungs to fit the larger FJ80 23mm threads.
Overall very pleased with how everything turned out.
The drag link is almost parallel with the axle and the tie rod and drag link are level with each other. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but I have more than an 1" of clearance above the leaf springs.
The All Pro hi-steer arms are super stout.
Hopefully I will have little to no bump steer.
Finished welding up my new Drag/Tie Rod ends. These are 1.25" DOM tube, .125" wall ID with Low range weld in bungs to fit the larger FJ80 23mm threads.
Overall very pleased with how everything turned out.
The drag link is almost parallel with the axle and the tie rod and drag link are level with each other. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but I have more than an 1" of clearance above the leaf springs.
The All Pro hi-steer arms are super stout.
Hopefully I will have little to no bump steer.
This project is looking good! Coming along much better than mine. One thing, not as egregious as a bezel, but I think your shocks are upside down. Im about to install the same ones, hopefully improving the ride over the rough country shocks that the PO put on and in my research I saw this page which says that Blisteins have some rod up while others are rod down shocks and they indicate the correct orientation by their logo.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
At full lock to the left is your pitman arm over your springs? How much up travel will you have before it hits? Other than that concern it looks great.
- Thread starter
- #175
That's very interesting, I was always under the impression it didn't matter which way to mount them. I guess I should flip them 180. Thanks for the info.
- Thread starter
- #176
I double checked it again this morning and with the fixed end of the leaf pack being on the forward side, the spring pack would have to go inverted before it hits the pitman arm. The way I checked this is by stringing a line from the forward spring pin to the rear spring shackle up against the frame.
Thanks for the heads up.
- Thread starter
- #177
Time for another update. Not much accomplished these last couple of months thanks to a couple of hernia surgeries. Getting olds sucks!! It takes so much longer to recover from this type of stuff.
This week I was able to install my new brake booster from @Racer65 along with an new FJ80 master cylinder and new clutch master cylinder.
Setting the rod gap between the booster and the master. 0.35mm
This week I was able to install my new brake booster from @Racer65 along with an new FJ80 master cylinder and new clutch master cylinder.
Setting the rod gap between the booster and the master. 0.35mm
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- Thread starter
- #178
Installed my backing plate delete brake lines from Napa.
My helper assisted me in bleeding the brakes.
My helper assisted me in bleeding the brakes.
Woe looks real clean. Did u get all the air out? It's more difficult when u do that much brake work.
- Thread starter
- #180
HaHa! Yes, It took forever, especially for the first one which was the drivers rear (farthest away from the booster).
With all fours up in the air, they lock up pretty easily and the pedal feels good.
I'll will probably go back around one more time, just to make sure.
Starting on the exhaust, so hopefully I will be starting it soon!!!
