T-case question...need advise (1 Viewer)

[CenTXFJ60]

I'm doing a rebuild on my 38MM case. My understanding is there are usually shims to work with. Had these on a 62 case I did last summer. The case I'm doing right now does not have any shimsbin it. Is this unusual and do I need to be concerned with putting it back together without shims? I bought my rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters. Thanks, Jim

 

[60Works]

Shims set the bearing tension so the presence or absence of shims is only an issue if your bearing preload is off. Follow the manual to set the preload and buy new shims if necessary.

I've only rebuilt 2 transfer cases and both had shims from the factory.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

both split cases I've done had shims- one 84 and one 88 with bearing supported gears.... SOR has a few of the shim selections in stock I think. Best to order a range of them to have before you start. you don't want to put it all together to find it needs a shim for proper loading...you can sell the left overs in the classifieds when you're done.

 

[Tapage]

measure preload and determinate if you need shims or not .. pretty straight forward ..

Shims can be ordered from your fav Mr. T dealer .. in different thickness ..

 

[CenTXFJ60]

So i put the case together the way it came apart (no shims). Unfortunately the snap on wrench I'm using only goes down to 60 inch pounds. What I can tell you is there's no slop in the output shaft, but I'm concerned as the load seems very heavy. And what I mean by that is it takes a bit more force to turn it by hand vs another one I have in m shop. The other one is out of a 61 with 175K on it. I can spin that one fairly easily. Is the fact my rebuilt one is quite a bit harder to turn something to be concerned with. Or is this due to the new bearings etc. and should loosen up. I don't recall the 62 case I rebuilt 6 months ago being this stiff. Appreciate your feedback. Jim

 

[mwebfj60]

This is probably a silly question but did you put it in Neutral? In the pic, looks like it's in Low.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

This is probably a silly question but did you put it in Neutral? In the pic, looks like it's in Low.

Man that's a great question. I will check that out as soon as I get out there.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

new bearing will have alot more load than old bearing. I use the fish scale trick to check preload. pull the flange studs at as close to a 90* angle to the scale as you can. th preload it the force it takes to START turning...once it sheers and spins, the load will drop back to static... the other thing I can't remember is that I THINK addings shims adds load...so if with no shims, you're too high, adding shims will make it worse...someone correct me if I'm wrong on the affect of those shims...HTH

 

[CenTXFJ60]

new bearing will have alot more load than old bearing. I use the fish scale trick to check preload. pull the flange studs at as close to a 90* angle to the scale as you can. th preload it the force it takes to START turning...once it sheers and spins, the load will drop back to static... the other thing I can't remember is that I THINK addings shims adds load...so if with no shims, you're too high, adding shims will make it worse...someone correct me if I'm wrong on the affect of those shims...HTH

I believe you are correct about the shims. I don't fish but assume you can get a digital scale that reads low inch pounds. Also, to confirm...case needs to be in neutral when testing pre-load. Correct?

 

[CenTXFJ60]

This is probably a silly question but did you put it in Neutral? In the pic, looks like it's in Low.

Bingo ma man...slapped it into neutral and she spins nicely. Thanks for pointing this out. It's a good thing I have a day job

 

[billmc]

Yes, it should be in neutral, FSM doesn't specify whether front output should be engaged or not. You can get an inch-lb torque wrench from autozone for about $25. With my old bearing, it read 9-10 inch-lbs with no shims, which is correct. New bearing should be tighter. I could turn mine with my fingers, but it was harder than screwing in a tight light bulb, so if yours is easy with a new bearing you probably need to shim it.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Another question on this T Case. It's been a week since I loaded everything back into the 60. Have not driven it as I just mounted a new motor and now working on other things. Walking by it today I noticed a puddle of oil on the ground. Turns out the rear output shaft is leaking. I went back and found a pic of the cover with the new seal. Kinda scratching my head as I'm not sure what could be causing this. I haven't even run the gears via the motor. Did the same job on my brothers 62 last summer and no issues with his. I don't see anything in the FSM other than the one seal. Also don't recall any other rings or seals that came off the original case. Any help trouble shooting is appreciated.

 

[Output Shaft]

The case gasket, front & rear output shaft seal, the idler shaft o-ring, the 4WD switch and the speedometer cable o-rings all -could- leak. But none of course should leak when new or resaled.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

The case gasket, front & rear output shaft seal, the idler shaft o-ring and the speedometer cable o-rings all -could- leak. But none of course should leak when new.

OS, I understand and agree. This seems to be an issue with the output seal as the oil is leaking all around the nut holding the flange. I know it is not common but have you seen one fail out of the gate? Very possible I could have screwed up the install, but it's a pretty simple seal to put in. My next move will be to remove the flange and see if I can see any issues.

 

[Output Shaft]

Was the OS seal a Toyota seal or one from a kit? If it was from a kit, that's maybe the problem. I just replaced mine two years ago w a Toyota seal. Still dry as a bone.

 

[mwebfj60]

Pretty much has to be the shaft seal huh? I don't remember if this one has a spring that keeps the seal tight around it. Short term memory probs...I just did this a month ago!

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Was the OS seal a Toyota seal or one from a kit? If it was from a kit, that's maybe the problem. I just replaced mine two years ago w a Toyota seal. Still dry as a bone.

Don't believe it's a Toyota seal. Came in the kit from Cruiser Outfitters. I'll get a closer look this weekend and confirm

 

[60Works]

Leaking past the splines?

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Leaking past the splines?

That's what it looks like. Will get a better understanding when I pull the flange.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Leaking past the splines?

That's my guess. A bit of permatex on the splines will cure this.

I think the @cruiseroutfit kit uses the same seal as OEM, just not the Toyota branded one. I used one of these kits and it's been good for years. The only thing I noticed was the main body gasket was a few thousandths thicker than the OEM one, no big deal.