Heart transplant for my 74 (1 Viewer)

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Auburn Al
Some if you might have seen my other thread where I started a frame off on my 72... Needless to say I've gotten bogged down on for several reasons but I won't go into detail on that. On to the important stuff. Last summer I got a package deal on a 74 a 75 and a 77 in various states. The 77 and 75 were pretty rusty but 74 was 95% rust free so I'm going to bring her back with a heart transplant. The po tried but some different exhaust on the original engine but drilled through the water jacket and ran it anyway and eventually killed her.
Here's the plan: I'm going to freshen up a running f.5 out of a 73 then pull the the original driveline. While I have the drive line out I'm going to replace the clutch assembly and install new brake and master cyclinders.
More updates to come.
 
I've slowly made some progress on prepping to pull the driveline. I was wrenching away on intake and had finally gotten all the bolts out and was trying to pull it off when a snake fell out of my hood. It about scared the poop out of me. I carried on and most of the junk out of the engine bay.

Today I got started on the engine. I popped off the oil pan and then replaced the rear oil seal. Also what's that piece with four bolts above the rear seal called? I need to find the torque spec for those bolts. Scraping the old cork gasket was quite the pita but I got most of it off. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the rest off and cleaned up and have the new one in. I'm also planning on putting in a new exhaust manifold gasket and side cover gasket. Are there any other gaskets or parts I should replace while I've got the engine out?

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Finally got my engine on my engine stand. In the process I sheared a bolt off in the block so that will be a pita to get out. Anyways I got the new oil pan gasket installed and finished buttoning the engine up at about 9 last night.

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That piece with the four bolts is one of the four caps that holds the crankshaft in the block. Correct reinstallation is critical to engine survival. Proceed with great caution.

Mark
 
That piece with the four bolts is one of the four caps that holds the crankshaft in the block. Correct reinstallation is critical to engine survival. Proceed with great caution.

Mark
Thanks Mark for the reply. From what I could find, it said torque those bolts to 75-95. Does that sound right?
 
Were there any shims under the cap?
 
Hopefully on both sides.
 
Are there any other gaskets or parts I should replace while I've got the engine out?

Any gasket you can get to. Murphy's Law. Also, clean well and paint it all satin black with a high-temp spray bomb so that you can be proud of all your work!
 
Are there any other gaskets or parts I should replace while I've got the engine out?

Any gasket you can get to. Murphy's Law. Also, clean well and paint it all satin black with a high-temp spray bomb so that you can be proud of all your work!
That's the plan. I've got more gaskets on the way so I'm going to work on degreasing the engine and getting it ready for paint while I wait on the gaskets.
 
The one between the timing cover plate and the engine block is critical. ONLY use OEM for it.
 
Well I made some progress this weekend. I got the fuel pump and oil filter assemblies off along with their gaskets. I started working on the side but I some how sheared on bolt off. I pressed on and got all the cork gasket scraped off and cleaned with a bit of brake cleaner. Next i tried to address the sheared bolt. I started off drilling it out with my corded drill but it killed my drill. Making me 0-1. Next I went and got my cordless drill to finish drilling it out and tried my extractor but that broke too. 0-2. I tried drilling it out again but my drill bit was too dull to do anything so I said screw this and went to work on prepping the truck. I made good progress on the truck. I got the driveshafts, parking brake, and. speedo cable removed. I also got engine mount bolts a out which was a real pita. My only real dilemma is trying to figure how to get the shifter cane out.

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You were set up. The PO used a bolt that was too long and bottomed it out in the block and ALMOST broke it. He/she left you with the honor of finishing what they started. :rolleyes:
 
You were set up. The PO used a bolt that was too long and bottomed it out in the block and ALMOST broke it. He/she left you with the honor of finishing what they started. :rolleyes:
with my luck that's probably what happened. I'm going to get some better drill bits tomorrow and try again. I might give it a little heat treatment before I try the extractor hopefully it goes well.
 
The welding trick works a lot better than an extractor on a small bolt like that.
 
Alright time for an update. I finally got all my gaskets and finished buttoning the engine up. I cleaned as good as I could then rattle bombed it with some vht and called it good. I also pulled and replaced my pilot bearing. I used the old bread trick were you stuff bread behind the bearing to force it out. I used about a slice and a half and it popped right out. I also got the old drive line pulled. It was a freaking pita but I eventually got it out. I hit transmission and tcase with the pressure washer to try and get some of the goo off it the key word there is try. That stuff is so thick my 3400 psi gas pressure washer wouldn't hardly dent it. I think I'm going to try some oven cleaner on it and if that doesn't work I'll just call it good enough. I really got hung up today trying to get the throw out bearing out. I think I'm going to have to go get a small press or something because I couldn't get it to budge with my bfh. Once I get that throw out bearing fixed and the clutch in hopefully it will go more smoothly with less hang ups.

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Update time!
So I tried out the oven cleaner on the transmission goo it worked on the thinner stuff but couldn't touch the thick stuff. I didn't try the pressure washer so I could have broken it down enough for it but I didn't feel like dragging it out. I started playing around with some flat tan spray paint. I really like the color. Should I wire wheel down to bare metal then prime and paint or just sand over the paint it has now and paint?
Anyways I went to harbor freight and got a few goodies to hopefully help the assembly process. I finally got the throw out bearing out with my new little press and got the new one in. Once I had the throw out bearing in I went to put in the new slave cylinder but I noticed the hole for the mount was wollowed out so I change de that out. It so nice having spare parts on hand.
I attempted to mate the engine and trans but the trans was too big for me to handle by myself so I'm going to recruit a buddy to come help me get it mated up.

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I got a few hours in tonight and got the engine and transmission mated up. It was a pita by myself but I got it done with a little bit of ingenuity. I also cleaned cleaned up the intake and painted the exhaust manifold with some vht.
I had a couple little parts that I think came off the carb while I was cleaning it but I couldn't figure out where they went. Anybody have any ideas?
Also my exhaust manifold didn't have the little flapper thing it will this cause any issue while running?
And one final question is this the stock carb for a 73 F1.5? it had something with a wire coming out of it that didn't seem stock.

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For the second pic in the post of the three parts, not sure about the lower two parts. But, if my feeble memory is working right the top part looks like the adjuster cam for the TC mounted E-brake. It has been a long time since I've seen mine so I could easily be having a bad memory moment.

Don
 
Ok time for a much needed update. I finally got the engine and transmission mounted and booted in. It took me by myself about four hours to finally get it all bolted in so what about 1 bolt per hour ;);). Anyways I've got to order some more bolts and a few other things before it will be drivable. My next few projects will be a new fuel pump, mounting the gas tank and probably some brake work.

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