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- #21
So I have everything. Front & rear OME shocks, OME rear springs, ARB torsion bars. They're supposed to get it done next week, but how do they cap off the AHC?
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How does it ride compared to the stock suspension? I really debating on which lift to get...So we cranked it up another 4 turns. Measures as follows. 81" to top of roof rack. 37 1/4" to top of front wheel opening, 38 7/8" to top of rear wheel opening. It does definitely ride/handle a little rougher since it was cranked up. Sadly, I might crank it back down 1.
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This 2nd pic is next to a JK with a 2.5" lift and 35s. Every time I see a JK with 35s, I wish I would have gone with bigger tires. Note that I did NOT do the diff drop. Haven't noticed any grease slinging yet, but I will keep an eye on it. I really LOVE that front ground clearance.
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It's good that it passes the wife test. I'm with you on the cost. If my AHC goes out I just can't see spending $$ to fix it. I just want the best ride I can get but still have a enough room for 295sThe AHC definitely rides smoother, but not enough for me to justify how much money I was going to have to put into it. Before yesterday, when we cranked it up 4 more turns, it rode better than most vehicles out there. My wife and I drove it on a 400 mile weekend trip 2 weeks ago and were perfectly satisfied with the ride, and she drives a 2016 Land Rover LR4, so she's a tough critic. I really wanted the more level look though and I'll have to live with it a while to see how I feel about it with the front cranked up.
At this point, I'm confident I made the right choice to switch over to OME. Though it is a jump to get in without the running boards.
Put the LX on a lift to identify some suspect AC lines, and noticed the driver's side inner boot is now oozing grease and flinging it on the small/outside end and the passenger side is just starting to ooze a wee bit of grease on the inside/larger end. Mind you, I did NOT install the diff drop and didn't really want to. Do I bother rebooting? My tech says he's not real confident a reboot will take care of this. I am assuming these are the original shafts (187,000 miles).
I didn't want to install the diff drop mainly because I'd seen several people say they got by without it. Also, it's another $250 on top of the other $3000+ dollars I'm pouring into it right now. I'm not saying I won't, just trying to see if I can get by without it. Truth be told, I think it also needs upper control arms, which will also add another $500. Diff drop and UCAs might have to wait a few months because while I DO understand it needs it, my wife hasn't given me carte blanche, so in good time.
Wow. Surprised those 35s fit! How hard is it to trim the pinch weld?View attachment 1383236 The body lift will help but if you go with a 285/75r18 (35x11)it will not be needed. I had the exact set up on mine with slee spacers and tundra wheels with no rubbing once I trimmed the pinch weld. I really was not happy with the ride of the 2.5" ome kit! Very harsh unloading on the front. I am much happier with my current iron man pro foam cell kit. Here is how mine set with 285/75r18 and the 2.5" ome kit.
No body lift.