Finally time to lift my LX470 (1 Viewer)

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So I have everything. Front & rear OME shocks, OME rear springs, ARB torsion bars. They're supposed to get it done next week, but how do they cap off the AHC?
 
IPOR removed the complete system in my LX when the lift was done by PO. I went back to have torsion bars adjusted because the truck had serious stink bug so they raised the truck another inch. I had previously ordered the Diff Drop and didn't ask them to install for the same reason you mentioned earlier and just left it in the back of the truck. 3 weeks later both CV boots leaked and grease was everywhere ...the only reason I found out was I brought the truck to work to have the front pads replaced (i work at a Lexus dealership). I pulled out the Diff Drop and it was done in 15 minutes and the leaking stopped. So from personal experience I'm on the side that says the Diff Drop should be installed ....it's a small price to pay to protect your investment and peace of mind.
 
Lift is now done. Had it done at Jeep dealer because they do a lot of lifts. I'm driving it for the weekend, then they'll raise the front probably another inch, then do the alignment. My tires suck anyways. In a couple weeks, we'll install the 1" body lift. then it's wheels & tires! I will post pictures Monday or Tuesday after the front is adjusted up more. I'm pretty stoked, but right now it's really no higher than our LR4 with the air suspension raised all the way to "off road" height.
 
Sorry about the late reply. I have not purchased the body lift from Duiser yet. I have regretfully wussed out on going to 35s and have ordered 275/70R18. I'm going to have to do some towing and after that is all done, then I can get the 35s and keep these 275s for winter driving.

I ordered 18x8.5 Ultra Rogue machine finish 35 offset, fitted with Kumho Road Venture AT51 275/70R18. They are supposed to arrive tomorrow. I'll get pictures on after installation, so hopefully tomorrow night.
 
Before and after wheels installed. Drives like it was meant to be this way. Much better with the bigger tires

lifted before.jpg


lifted wheels.jpg
 
So we cranked it up another 4 turns. Measures as follows. 81" to top of roof rack. 37 1/4" to top of front wheel opening, 38 7/8" to top of rear wheel opening. It does definitely ride/handle a little rougher since it was cranked up. Sadly, I might crank it back down 1.

lx close level.jpg

This 2nd pic is next to a JK with a 2.5" lift and 35s. Every time I see a JK with 35s, I wish I would have gone with bigger tires. Note that I did NOT do the diff drop. Haven't noticed any grease slinging yet, but I will keep an eye on it. I really LOVE that front ground clearance.
lx next jk.jpg
 
So we cranked it up another 4 turns. Measures as follows. 81" to top of roof rack. 37 1/4" to top of front wheel opening, 38 7/8" to top of rear wheel opening. It does definitely ride/handle a little rougher since it was cranked up. Sadly, I might crank it back down 1.

View attachment 1436704
This 2nd pic is next to a JK with a 2.5" lift and 35s. Every time I see a JK with 35s, I wish I would have gone with bigger tires. Note that I did NOT do the diff drop. Haven't noticed any grease slinging yet, but I will keep an eye on it. I really LOVE that front ground clearance.
View attachment 1436706
How does it ride compared to the stock suspension? I really debating on which lift to get...
 
The AHC definitely rides smoother, but not enough for me to justify how much money I was going to have to put into it. Before yesterday, when we cranked it up 4 more turns, it rode better than most vehicles out there. My wife and I drove it on a 400 mile weekend trip 2 weeks ago and were perfectly satisfied with the ride, and she drives a 2016 Land Rover LR4, so she's a tough critic. I really wanted the more level look though and I'll have to live with it a while to see how I feel about it with the front cranked up.

At this point, I'm confident I made the right choice to switch over to OME. Though it is a jump to get in without the running boards.
 
The AHC definitely rides smoother, but not enough for me to justify how much money I was going to have to put into it. Before yesterday, when we cranked it up 4 more turns, it rode better than most vehicles out there. My wife and I drove it on a 400 mile weekend trip 2 weeks ago and were perfectly satisfied with the ride, and she drives a 2016 Land Rover LR4, so she's a tough critic. I really wanted the more level look though and I'll have to live with it a while to see how I feel about it with the front cranked up.

At this point, I'm confident I made the right choice to switch over to OME. Though it is a jump to get in without the running boards.
It's good that it passes the wife test. I'm with you on the cost. If my AHC goes out I just can't see spending $$ to fix it. I just want the best ride I can get but still have a enough room for 295s
 
Put the LX on a lift to identify some suspect AC lines, and noticed the driver's side inner boot is now oozing grease and flinging it on the small/outside end and the passenger side is just starting to ooze a wee bit of grease on the inside/larger end. Mind you, I did NOT install the diff drop and didn't really want to. Do I bother rebooting? My tech says he's not real confident a reboot will take care of this. I am assuming these are the original shafts (187,000 miles).
 
Put the LX on a lift to identify some suspect AC lines, and noticed the driver's side inner boot is now oozing grease and flinging it on the small/outside end and the passenger side is just starting to ooze a wee bit of grease on the inside/larger end. Mind you, I did NOT install the diff drop and didn't really want to. Do I bother rebooting? My tech says he's not real confident a reboot will take care of this. I am assuming these are the original shafts (187,000 miles).

Not sure why you don't want to install a diff drop.. it will solve that leak issue which will only get worse, create a huge mess and you'll end up spending more than the cost of the diff drop to reboot without a guarantee. The diff drop is easy to install (20-30 min), doesn't require special tools and returns the shafts back to standard and immediately stopped mine from leaking.
 
I have been going back and forth on the diff drop then had a realization. Diff drop is about $200 and one CV is around $400 new. So $200 to extend the life of the $800 CVs seems like a no brainer
 
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I have the AHC lift, I did install a diff drop about 2 weeks after I did the lift. I noticed it seemed to help with torque steer vs. not having it.
 
I didn't want to install the diff drop mainly because I'd seen several people say they got by without it. Also, it's another $250 on top of the other $3000+ dollars I'm pouring into it right now. I'm not saying I won't, just trying to see if I can get by without it. Truth be told, I think it also needs upper control arms, which will also add another $500. Diff drop and UCAs might have to wait a few months because while I DO understand it needs it, my wife hasn't given me carte blanche, so in good time.
 
I too cheeped out and didn't get a diff drop after initially lifting my LC, but after only week or 2, my cb's teared. I think any vehicle with IFS that is lifted after being stock height for 10+ years will have the CB's tear. Its not if, its when. After a few months I replaced my front axels and installed a diff drop. That being said, I have also had new/replaced CB's tear after some extreme rock crawling, but I also Run Icon Stage 3 shocks that have 1'' longer travel and probably let a hanging front wheel CB extend more than its designed to. I think if you have the money, do it.
 
I have been lifted with no diff drop for over a year with no issues. Had 220k miles on it when I lifted it. On another note, I didn't max out the T-bars and left more than the minimum required down travel. I went from an AHC rig that was run in high at least once a week. I figured the CV shafts had been in that position before and had no issues. So far so good, but not something that will work for everyone
 
I didn't want to install the diff drop mainly because I'd seen several people say they got by without it. Also, it's another $250 on top of the other $3000+ dollars I'm pouring into it right now. I'm not saying I won't, just trying to see if I can get by without it. Truth be told, I think it also needs upper control arms, which will also add another $500. Diff drop and UCAs might have to wait a few months because while I DO understand it needs it, my wife hasn't given me carte blanche, so in good time.

Just do the diff drop for now ....so you can drive it worry free and get the upper control arms later
BIOR sells it for $185.00 .... I got mine from Slee for $250.00... didn't know BOIR was less
Differential Drop Brackets For Toyota Land Cruiser
 
View attachment 1383236 The body lift will help but if you go with a 285/75r18 (35x11)it will not be needed. I had the exact set up on mine with slee spacers and tundra wheels with no rubbing once I trimmed the pinch weld. I really was not happy with the ride of the 2.5" ome kit! Very harsh unloading on the front. I am much happier with my current iron man pro foam cell kit. Here is how mine set with 285/75r18 and the 2.5" ome kit.
No body lift.
Wow. Surprised those 35s fit! How hard is it to trim the pinch weld?
 

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