What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (38 Viewers)

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Picked up my '98 100 about 6 weeks ago and it turned 280k shortly thereafter.

This week I:

- Replaced heater T's with stainless (Four Seasons 84543) and all six hoses (87245-6A170/180/190/200/210/220)

- Replaced ignition cam rod that luckily broke while in my driveway doing the above ^^^

- Forcefully exhumed the warning chime from my instrument cluster

- Removed front armrests and installed 3D-printed covers

Next projects: Driveline lube, steering rack R&R, front rotors & pads.
 
Tough Dog order has arrived.

100 series TourFlex (medium & heavy) suspensions and misc other 100 items.

J

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Just installed some 295/70/18
Cooper STT Pro mud Terrains.
(Center caps are being refinished)
Upgraded from my 305/60/18 KO2's
 
Well, you know, 250k miles and I suppose it was time to do this. FYI, my original TEEs were NOT falling apart, did not disintegrate in my hands or the hoses, and frankly were still solid and I could only destroy them with pliers. I figured I had another 100,000 miles left on them. But the brass ones will outlive me.
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View attachment 1426682 I am on my second key, both have broken into 2 or 3 pieces over 6 years, usually when I lend my cruiser to my brother or father...

I also had 2 spare keys cut, one for camping in the middle of no where that I cable tie to a place under the cruiser that I can easily find but that is not easily seen, and not near any moving parts... but when camping and packing away the tent I forgot them in the tent pocketand fully loaded cruiser with keys packed away ... sent me underneath to retrieve my 3rd key...

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The other I have been using till I get my main set sorted... I usually clip my keys to my belt clip... that got caught and ripped the belt clip today and my keys fell to the floor...
After that I could not start the cruiser and even after locking and waiting 15 mins a couple times I still failed...

I think the little chip broke inside the Lexus key... My spare camping key is no where to be found so the cruiser is parked on the farm

Is there keys out there that are as tough as the cruiser??? Anyone else have these problems?? Any one have a solution?

You can start the truck with the "dropped" key and the guts/remote from your broken key. Just hold the remote close to the other key when you turn it. The transponders shouldn't conflict as they are both paired and one isn't transmitting. @suprarx7nut 's fob just keeps the remote on your key ring and makes it a permanent fix.

Personally, I just taped the fob/transponder/remote to my ignition cylinder and use a plain metal transponder-less key. And then have a Viper alarm for the keyless entry.
 
A third arm would be ideal if you can fit it but not 100% needed.
I would however add plates to the frame, a 3/16" dimond shape frame plate would be ideal but square on 3 sides and triangulated on the
Top will work as well.
I'm not sure if your AHC is still in use but you may want to keep in mind removal or repair with welded sliders may not be possible depending on out rigger location.
Hope this helps.
I meant to ask you Ben, why diamond/top triangle?
 
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I meant to ask you Ben, why diamond/top triangle?
Simple answer, a straight edge will cause a week point, the top with the gusset will take most of the force, your really just looking to break up the straight welds. What's best is debatable but somthing like this would be fine
 
Just installed some 295/70/18
Cooper STT Pro mud Terrains.
(Center caps are being refinished)
Upgraded from my 305/60/18 KO2's
Wish I could like this more than once!
 
How are those Ralph shocks? I was wondering about getting some for all corners of my 100. Or are the adjustable ones better?? Glad to see more options!

I have the Ralph shocks up front and 45mm adjustables in the rear on my rig. I honestly love the front ride. Currently about 6500 miles on the TourFlex springs and TD shocks. For me, it is the perfect solution, for my day to day usage. I'm still a little shy on weight for my CONSTANT rate TourFlex springs, but once my drawers arrive and get them installed I know I will like the rear ride much better. The 45mm have helped with unloaded rear springs. I'm running them a little softer than Tough Dog recommends due to being shy on weight to compensate.

My wife's cousin in London has about 40000kms on his 45mm adjustables (Defender 110). He uses his rig about the same way I do and I have no doubt mine will perform and last like his have. His rig is what made me research Tough Dog and become a distributor.

Please feel free to PM me or email me for more questions and pricing if interested.

J
 
Well, you know, 250k miles and I suppose it was time to do this. FYI, my original TEEs were NOT falling apart, did not disintegrate in my hands or the hoses, and frankly were still solid and I could only destroy them with pliers. I figured I had another 100,000 miles left on them. But the brass ones will outlive me. View attachment 1427616View attachment 1427617

Do you have a link to the tees?
 
I have the Ralph shocks up front and 45mm adjustables in the rear on my rig. I honestly love the front ride. Currently about 6500 miles on the TourFlex springs and TD shocks. For me, it is the perfect solution, for my day to day usage. I'm still a little shy on weight for my CONSTANT rate TourFlex springs, but once my drawers arrive and get them installed I know I will like the rear ride much better. The 45mm have helped with unloaded rear springs. I'm running them a little softer than Tough Dog recommends due to being shy on weight to compensate.

My wife's cousin in London has about 40000kms on his 45mm adjustables (Defender 110). He uses his rig about the same way I do and I have no doubt mine will perform and last like his have. His rig is what made me research Tough Dog and become a distributor.

Please feel free to PM me or email me for more questions and pricing if interested.

J
Out of curiosity, how do you adjust the rear shocks? A knob like the rancho rs900xl?

I ran those on a 2500HD and I really liked the adjustability, but the rears never got adjusted because I would have to do a belly crawl to reach the knobs on the bottom but a 100 shock would probably be easier to get to. Ranch made an air actuated in-cab adjustable system years ago, but discontinued it before I got mine.
 
Out of curiosity, how do you adjust the rear shocks? A knob like the rancho rs900xl?

I ran those on a 2500HD and I really liked the adjustability, but the rears never got adjusted because I would have to do a belly crawl to reach the knobs on the bottom but a 100 shock would probably be easier to get to. Ranch made an air actuated in-cab adjustable system years ago, but discontinued it before I got mine.

They are the same style/placement of knob. I adjust my rears every 2-3 weeks, pending my travel plans. I have to get under the rig to adjust, so probably similar to your experience.

J
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cut in all the accessory switches (6) and also installed (2) usb charging ports. 1 in the center console for rear passengers and the other in the blank to the right of the radio for front seat area. tightnd up the front cup holder screws cleaned out under the console.
 
I caught the CV grease weep early.....It was the small boot for the inboard CV boot.

I had the Pfran hose clamp kit sitting in the tool box, which I received about 2 months ago. Love it being prepared (of course I could have put it on right after I received it and not had to clean up a bit of grease, but I'll count it as a win)

So now I'll pull out that axle and inspect for wear later
 
I didn't catch your location nor the 1HD-FTE in the 1st post, these links may or may not be applicable for you.

Zimbabwe by the Sea! Jokes... it's a notorious part of Southern Africa... managed to buy and cut a new key for $55 and put my remote into that... gotta sort my backup next
 
I recently scored some Tundra 18's brand new from a dealership with new Dueler tires for $450. The tires will get swapped out with BFG KO2s this spring/summer.



Not sure if this is exactly what you want, but excuse me while I toot my own horn... so to speak. You'll want to find a remote internal piece that still works on your car(the part with the buttons) and then use a regular hard key (plain metal or one of the nicer "transponder keys").

YotaMD.com - Products - Toyota and Lexus Key Fob

Thanks that does look like a good plan... found a $55 new Shell yesterday and retrieved my cruiser today... cut and ground the mountings for my 52" LED light bar to attach it to the front runner roof rack...
 

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