If I read correctly the pull showed up after the lift. So bearing or brake issues would then be coincidental but not impossible.
A Couple Nagging Issues Following OME 2.5" Lift Install (1 Viewer)
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surfpig
The Anti-Tech
With your numbers there I would definitely go with the caster correction plates (with OEM bushings). The difference between sides is pretty minor, so probably not the reason for your pull...
Is the axle centered under the truck? Unless you change the length of the panhard thingie it will be offset in one direction or the other by the lift. Again, not sure if that has anything to do with your problem.
Is the axle centered under the truck? Unless you change the length of the panhard thingie it will be offset in one direction or the other by the lift. Again, not sure if that has anything to do with your problem.
I agree. My caster numbers have never been equal, but close enough like his. I "think" mine are around 2.2* and 2.3* right now, but would have to dig up old paperwork buried and forgotten. I lack OCD.
- Thread starter
- #44
What makes it difficult to isolate is that I did everything over a few weeks. New pads, rotors, springs, shocks, caster bushings, bumpers, tires, etc - all over the course of about 3-4 weeks.
I think I may have the passenger wheel bearing too tight - I'll pull it apart (need to fix a stripped stud anyway) this weekend to check the torque. The axle is definitely shifted slightly to the passenger side, but I expected that.
At this point my plan is to swap the rear 2860 spring to a 2863 & pull the control arms to see how close the bushings look to where I think they should be based on the dozens of pictures I've looked at. I really don't think the caster is causing my pull...it's got to be somewhere else. It's also only really noticeable over ~50-55mph. But considering that I have a 2000 mile trip planned with 70% or more on the highway, I really want to get it figured out before then.
I think I may have the passenger wheel bearing too tight - I'll pull it apart (need to fix a stripped stud anyway) this weekend to check the torque. The axle is definitely shifted slightly to the passenger side, but I expected that.
At this point my plan is to swap the rear 2860 spring to a 2863 & pull the control arms to see how close the bushings look to where I think they should be based on the dozens of pictures I've looked at. I really don't think the caster is causing my pull...it's got to be somewhere else. It's also only really noticeable over ~50-55mph. But considering that I have a 2000 mile trip planned with 70% or more on the highway, I really want to get it figured out before then.
- Thread starter
- #45
I hadn't considered this - I didn't rebuild the calipers when I did the brake job. How would I check?
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DirtScaresMe
Trouble Maker
So... uh... I have a 2.5" heavy OME lift kit sitting here I'm installing once it stops snowing.
My truck drives just fine right now, any pro-tips on how to do this? Was planning on getting a small press to knock the bushings out/in myself, un/re bolting the shocks and un/re screwing the coils on.
My truck drives just fine right now, any pro-tips on how to do this? Was planning on getting a small press to knock the bushings out/in myself, un/re bolting the shocks and un/re screwing the coils on.
- Thread starter
- #47
The install is pretty straight forward. Use lots of liquid wrench and go easy so you don't snap a bolt - especially if you in an area with lots of salt on the road.
I had someone else install the bushings for me because it seemed like a total pain in the arse. I regret doing that now. When doing all of the work yourself you tend to know exactly where you most likely screwed up so you know where to start looking when things get a little sideways.
DirtScaresMe
Trouble Maker
Can I do the bushings after the fact? I know people have popped these on without using a press so unless they have quite powerful thumbs I'm imagining they left the oem bushings in the arms.
- Thread starter
- #49
I'd recommend it, actually. Let the springs settle for a few weeks, get an alignment, install the bushings and then put it back on the alignment rack. I wish I had done that because right now I have no idea where I started before installing the caster bushings, which I'm now having trouble with.
DirtScaresMe
Trouble Maker
Cool, thanks for the tip on that. You thinking of buying new bushings and a press?
I'm running the same setup with fox shocks and mine is pulling hard right even after alignment. First thing I'm gonna do is adjustable pan hard to see if that fixes it.
I recently installed an OME 2.5" lift and haven't yet installed the castor correction bushings. I also got new tires. The truck seemed a little darty on the highway. I then realized my tires were set at nearly 40 PSI from the tire shop. I took them down to 33 and it feels much better on the highway - way more stable. Could your 45 PSI tire pressure be causing your truck to simply follow the natural crown of the road- to the right??
- Thread starter
- #53
Not sure yet - gonna drop the arms and have a look.
The tires are 295/70/17 Toyo Open Country M/T, which according to what I'm reading really should be around 60 psi or so. I aired them up to 65 today to see how that feels.
I am not going to argue, but 65psi seems excessive. I am sure for the maximum load rating it is at 65psi, but I never run my tires at max PSI. I would try them at 40psi and go from there. Do the old chalk roll out test and see how they look.
- Thread starter
- #56
The max is 80psi - I talked to a guy today who has them on all of his trucks and he thought I was nuts at 45psi. 65 seems crazy to me too, but I looked on the tire and the max is in fact 80psi.
I've only installed one lift (OME 2.5 on an 80 series), but I found that the 12-Ton Harbor Freight press was severely taxed getting the OEM bushings out. I was literally hanging all my body weight off the thing. That was with an overnight soaking of PB Blaster and some tapping (theoretically helps with penetration). Then again, it may simply be that I should have applied force and then just left the thing to sit for awhile...? The Cruiser in question had minimal rust, but it wasn't pristine.
I bought the HF 20 ton press on sale last weekend in anticipation of installing another lift soon.
Oh, and the first truck rode great after the lift with max caster. It's kind of confusing, though, so I can imagine how someone could easily install them with the wrong alignment.
Caster impacts the vehicle's tendency to return the steering to center. With your measurements it will go with road crown, wind, etc.. with little tendency to return to center. I have a 2.5" heavy lift without any of the armor I intend to add so my lift is more than 2.5" and with the bushings I still have plenty of caster. I would strongly suggest you fix this first and see if you still have an issue.
Can you take a picture of your installed bushings? Maybe that will lend a clue, otherwise I'd say they are not installed correctly.
I have the 20 ton HF press and it did my bushings just fine and I'd recommend it.
Can you take a picture of your installed bushings? Maybe that will lend a clue, otherwise I'd say they are not installed correctly.
I have the 20 ton HF press and it did my bushings just fine and I'd recommend it.
As far as I know tire pressure is determined by the vehicles weight. You want a pressure that creates the optimum contact patch for your vehicle.
The max tire pressure on the tire is just that, the maximum pressure you can use in your quest for getting a proper contact patch.
The max tire pressure on the tire is just that, the maximum pressure you can use in your quest for getting a proper contact patch.
- Thread starter
- #60
Pretty sure it's the load limit that's determined by pressure. Here's a link to the Toyo load and inflation table. I'll give them a call today to confirm because 65 seems a little high to me as well. But after googling around and talking to people, it seems reasonable with this particular tire. I'll feel better hearing it directly from Toyo.
Load & Inflation Tables
Load & Inflation Tables
