I am new to this site and was wonder if the OME 2.5 lift (heavy) is a straight forward swap ? I have a factory grill guard but am planning on building a steel just wondering if it will be super squirrelly without the Wright I will be running 305/70/16s thank you for any help
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I have the J series lift on mine and it is squirrely as hell if you don't do the caster correction. The swap was super easy. Just need a good jack and strong/tall jack stands. Safety is the most important thing while doing the swap. If you have access to a lift that is even better and safer. Took me like 4 hours or so and that included time to go buy the damn floor jack and all hand tools, no air or electric impact wrenches. But that was for just the springs. Caster correction plates or bushings would be extra time. I still have to do mine, but I do not daily drive it.
lcgeek
Glad to meet you!
Some do, some don't. Most do some form of castor correction.
I don't have my plates on mine yet. Maybe when I get home in a week or so I will do them. I am sure it is as lcgeek said. Some do and some don't. But at least the plates or bushings are done after the fact so you can address that when you get to that point. Heck you may find that the bushings fix it for now, but as you add gear or change things around it may have to be addressed again.
I don't have castor plates or bushings on my OME 2.5 lift. I just traded 285s for 315s and it a bit more stable. Never had an issue though
i have 4 inches of suspension and 1 inch of body lift on 37s with no caster correction. we joke that it chases rabbits because it darts around so fast. obviously not a DD. plates are here just havent put them on yet.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Slee included (still includes? - @sleeoffroad ) a nice AL bushing tool to save OE rubber radius arm bushings if you buy from Christo, (plus a nice paper template for bushing orientation for your pressman), and it is a straightforward swap & Christo can help you decide/2nd guess your selection per your use & planned other mods w/ weight influences --prime example are the 2 guys fighting RTT installs & handling issues.
It's a straightforward bolt-on situation, but the 4 bushings between your radius arms & FR axle housing is what controls the caster - the plates spoken of are generally for guys doing J's or more (3.5"+) - the bushings you swap are in a spring kit, but you need a press so you see people talk of not bothering to swap them.
The top FR shock nuts can be tough without either a helper or a impact gun as the shock can try to spin.
The bushing tool & paper template Christo included are worth it for 'Joe No-tools', as you get a blueprint for your pressman & a tool so he doesn't burn out your old bushings, or screw your new ones or clock them wrong, either giving you wrong caster or plain not bolting into the axle pickups.
Here's Slee's instructions so you can see exactly what you're in for:
Slee - OME Suspension Installation (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)
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Alternately you also ::can:: correct caster by doing drop brackets to the rear radius arm pivot point, either by welding a washer (fine if you are dead set on leaving that lift height in -most of us had OME 2.5" lifts as a 'gateway drug'-lift) - or the bolt-on drop brackets MAF sells.
I bring up these brackets as guys are building more "overlander" use rigs lately (fancy "car camping" term to me, IDK - but a segment of owners here) - if you use yours more like this than running trails, they are a reversable solution esp if you ever think your spring size may change. Not commonly used, but a solution worth a mention.
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Without the Slee press tool, rubber bushes that would otherwise be re-used if you grow into bigger lift later get mangled coming out for the yellow urethane bushes (if your press guy isn't trying to be nice to you) - so hold onto the rubber ones if you swap them, you might want them down the road. IIRC, new ones are $60-75/ea.
If you talk with Christo, tell him all your planned realistic mods - if more armor or batteries or a RTT, etc, etc, etc are in your future, you might find you want something else.
Also, you can run your 305/70's on stock height springs, in case the tires are your reason to lift. Seems others say you can even do 315/75's but no 1st hand on stock springs there.
Not sure on your 'factory grill guard' but suspect it's the Waag 'brush gaurd' we call the damage multiplier - post a pic, if it's the Waag it's worth pulling ASAP.
Call Christo when you are ready, plenty of great vendors but his knowledge & his extras that come with springs make him my choice for this. Let him 2nd guess your use & needs.
It's a straightforward bolt-on situation, but the 4 bushings between your radius arms & FR axle housing is what controls the caster - the plates spoken of are generally for guys doing J's or more (3.5"+) - the bushings you swap are in a spring kit, but you need a press so you see people talk of not bothering to swap them.
The top FR shock nuts can be tough without either a helper or a impact gun as the shock can try to spin.
The bushing tool & paper template Christo included are worth it for 'Joe No-tools', as you get a blueprint for your pressman & a tool so he doesn't burn out your old bushings, or screw your new ones or clock them wrong, either giving you wrong caster or plain not bolting into the axle pickups.
Here's Slee's instructions so you can see exactly what you're in for:
Slee - OME Suspension Installation (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)
---------------
Alternately you also ::can:: correct caster by doing drop brackets to the rear radius arm pivot point, either by welding a washer (fine if you are dead set on leaving that lift height in -most of us had OME 2.5" lifts as a 'gateway drug'-lift) - or the bolt-on drop brackets MAF sells.
I bring up these brackets as guys are building more "overlander" use rigs lately (fancy "car camping" term to me, IDK - but a segment of owners here) - if you use yours more like this than running trails, they are a reversable solution esp if you ever think your spring size may change. Not commonly used, but a solution worth a mention.
----------------
Without the Slee press tool, rubber bushes that would otherwise be re-used if you grow into bigger lift later get mangled coming out for the yellow urethane bushes (if your press guy isn't trying to be nice to you) - so hold onto the rubber ones if you swap them, you might want them down the road. IIRC, new ones are $60-75/ea.
If you talk with Christo, tell him all your planned realistic mods - if more armor or batteries or a RTT, etc, etc, etc are in your future, you might find you want something else.
Also, you can run your 305/70's on stock height springs, in case the tires are your reason to lift. Seems others say you can even do 315/75's but no 1st hand on stock springs there.
Not sure on your 'factory grill guard' but suspect it's the Waag 'brush gaurd' we call the damage multiplier - post a pic, if it's the Waag it's worth pulling ASAP.
Call Christo when you are ready, plenty of great vendors but his knowledge & his extras that come with springs make him my choice for this. Let him 2nd guess your use & needs.
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Wow. Thank you so much for all the
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- #10
Wow,. Thank you so much for all of the replies. I guess I've been snookered by another 4x4 outfit. I thought I explained pretty well as to what my plan was. I'm just not to handy with computer/phone so I had a hard time even finding this site lol. I'm throwing it on today on my 97 that I've had for about 16 yrs so finally getting it to look how I've wanted. Cheers
If you have a heavy front bumper and a winch you can likely get away with just castor correction bushings. J springs are an inch longer and typically require the correction plates or washer mod.
I ran heavy oME springs up front for a long time with just correction bushings. If I were you I would put the lift on, let it "settle in" with your heavier bumper, and then take it to a shop and have the castor measured to see how far you need to go. If you drive on highway a lot, it is nice to not have the truck darting on you at speed or when you are stopping. Every truck is a bit different so see where you end up after the lift AND bumper.
I ran heavy oME springs up front for a long time with just correction bushings. If I were you I would put the lift on, let it "settle in" with your heavier bumper, and then take it to a shop and have the castor measured to see how far you need to go. If you drive on highway a lot, it is nice to not have the truck darting on you at speed or when you are stopping. Every truck is a bit different so see where you end up after the lift AND bumper.
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- #12
I really appreciate the help. The only reason I've decided to do this is the fact of my stock suspension is shot. My rear right was sitting lower than the rest of the rig so I figured why not go 2.5 taller if I'm getting new suspension anyway. I won't be going any higher as it is my daily. I guess I'll be riding my murder cycle alot if it drives like shiz. Well the three months we have of nice weather here in Montana. Thanks again guys. I might be bugging you with more qs
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I've never heard of the brush gaurd doing more damage in a collision. I will post a pic. Thank you sir
You should really spend some time reading a few of the many OME lift threads on Mud. Depending on your future use, you may be really unhappy with a full HEAVY OME lift. There are a ton of people who are actually better off (ride, stance, etc) using the Heavy in the front (if you will have a heavy bumper/winch) and the MEDIUM in the rear (rides better and avoids the "stink-bug" look. There are soooooo many threads on here about this lift combination vs heavy vs etc, etc, etc. But, if you haven't already bought the lift, I would seriously consider the MEDIUM springs at least for the rear. Depending on which shock route you go, you will not be happy with a heavy rear lift and no weight back there (aftermarket bumper, drawers, etc). just my 0.02
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Ok. I thought I did enough research but with the rear I run a home made rack that fits my 400+ Klr Moto. Planning on figuring out some sort of spare tire swing out etc. Obviously the bike won't be on there all the time but this made my conclusion for the heavy all around. I sincerely appreciate any and all advise from all of you guys. I will post pics hopefully by tomorrow
I have a set of Medium rears that I'm getting ready to swap for heavies after installing my rear bumper and tire carrier. PM me if you want them once I pull them off - they've been on the truck for about a month.
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