Yep, don't even bother with those things.
A Couple Nagging Issues Following OME 2.5" Lift Install (1 Viewer)
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- Thread starter
- #22
So what are my options at this point? Go back to OEM bushings and install plates? Which plates?
Honestly not sure if the caster is causing your wheel pull. Other than the pull do you like the way it drives? I drove mine for several years with about your caster number running offset bushings... It was just OK. (2.5" OME lift). When I went to J lift is when I said enough of that. Swapped my offset bushings and arms to a friend (who has zero caster and lift) took his OEM bushings and arms and then went to plates.
- Thread starter
- #25
I'm just trying to solve for what I can see right now. I'm not sure that it will solve the pulling issue but it's something that's measurable and is off so seems like a good place to start.
Can I install plates with the OME bushings or will I need to swap back to OEM and then install plates. All of the plates that I've seen seem to be made specifically for certain degrees of correction?
Can I install plates with the OME bushings or will I need to swap back to OEM and then install plates. All of the plates that I've seen seem to be made specifically for certain degrees of correction?
Generally speaking no. You wouldn't want to combine caster bushing with plates. Now bushings have work fine for some, I just didn't like that setup and never got back to where I wanted to be in the numbers. Like said i swapped mine with a friend that was running OME med 2.5" lift w/o any correction so was a win-win. End of the day it will be up to you on how well your truck drives (set aside the pulling which I believe is different, but could be wrong).
- Thread starter
- #27
I'm just having a hard time finding plates for my small OME 2.5" lift. They all seem to be for 4" or higher. I'm really surprised that the caster bushings aren't correcting it, given how moderate the lift is.
Given that the caster is different from side to side, I would be very suspicious that the shop did not get the bushings in equally so now you have one side that is off. Not to mention they do not seem to be providing much correction at all for a 2.5" lift. I have Yellow bushings and heavies all around and have zero issues. I have driven thousands of miles and over 100mph and the truck is rock solid.
I really don't see misaligned bushings causing a difference in caster readings from side to side. That would mean that instead of the rubber compressing the axle is twisting.
I've seen plenty of alignment print outs and a difference from side to side is almost always evident for what ever reason, be it the truck or rack.
Initially caster plates targeted 4" lifts which put the tierod close to or even contacting the arms. So adding correction bushings to those plates weren't an option as the added rotating would actually bind the tierod with the arms.
First thing I would do is figure out why there is a difference in height from right to left. That shouldn't be there. Be sure to look the truck over for any signs of an accident.
I've seen plenty of alignment print outs and a difference from side to side is almost always evident for what ever reason, be it the truck or rack.
Initially caster plates targeted 4" lifts which put the tierod close to or even contacting the arms. So adding correction bushings to those plates weren't an option as the added rotating would actually bind the tierod with the arms.
First thing I would do is figure out why there is a difference in height from right to left. That shouldn't be there. Be sure to look the truck over for any signs of an accident.
- Thread starter
- #30
Yeah, that seems to be the case, unfortunately. I just called Slee and he said that with the current alignment readings, the bushings are either not installed or they're installed incorrectly. He said that caster alignment in the .4 - .8 range is what they typically see when no caster correction has been applied. They’re definitely installed - they’re the yellow OME bushings.
I think I’ll pull the arms myself this weekend and have a closer look. I’m pretty sure that the shop I use has a hydraulic press. What are the odds that I destroy the bushings trying to remove them to reposition?
I've pulled them and reinstalled them. But you run the risk of deforming the ring and having them loose in the hole afterwards. A couple of tack welds would take care of it.
Post pics of how they are installed.
Post pics of how they are installed.
and a 2.5" lift needs 4.375* or so of correction to bring it back into the original range before the lift. I don't see yellow bushings doing that.
- Thread starter
- #33
I measured again this morning and they're dead even. The problem was trying to read a tape measure in the dark last night with my horrible vision.
- Thread starter
- #34
You want pics of them mounted on the vehicle or once I pull them off?
- Thread starter
- #35
Where do you get that 4.375 number? Even the adjustable bushings will only get 3 deg max. If the bushings are a waste of time, even with a small 2.5" lift, why would vendors even bother selling them? I can't find plates for anything under a 4" lift.
after the arms are pulled. If they look visually close to how they should be pressed in then there will likely be little improvement even if you do adjust them.
The axle housing should appear to be "shifted" up at the front housing mounting hole and down at the rear housing mounting hole if the bushings are installed correctly. Also you should be able to see the yellow cores if they are actually there.
Another thing is a bad caliper, one that has a piston hanging up, so you get more braking on one side, than the other, and it does not return, and the pad is dragging all the time
Also a tight wheel bearing
