What's bare minimums for a fj40 for rubicon trail? (1 Viewer)

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What would be the minimum upgrades for a pretty much stock fj40 on rubicon trail? I have 31" tires. Will it get dented and scratched?
 
Minimum modifications for the con in a 40. IMO
Rock sliders for the rockers
Correct gearing for your tire choice
Lockers front and rear. ( You can do just rear being both make a big difference)
Fine spline pinion and cromoly front axle shafts.
My junk doesn't leave the shop without the basics.
 
Depends on if you want to go all the way through, or turn around at little sluice. I've gone through to the little sluice in winter with a stock Jeep. On the other hand, the back half gets rough - it's a challenge on 35's.

A single locker, rock sliders and 33's are the minimum IMO. Expect dents (if your careful you'll get a few quarter sized) and scratches no matter how built it is.
 
Depends on if you want to go all the way through, or turn around at little sluice. I've gone through to the little sluice in winter with a stock Jeep. On the other hand, the back half gets rough - it's a challenge on 35's.

A single locker, rock sliders and 33's are the minimum IMO. Expect dents (if your careful you'll get a few quarter sized) and scratches no matter how built it is.


Truth to that but only going to the little sluice is kinda lame.
 
X2 on the 33's, sliders and at least one locker. Watching folks go through with less makes for good entertainment, but is frustrating for those in the rear. It's good that you ask the question, because even folks with well-prepared rigs have a bad trip now and then, but being totally unprepared is just no fun for anyone.
 
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X2 on the 33's, sliders and at least one locker. Watching folks go through with less makes for good entertainment, but is frustrating for those in the rear. It's good that you ask the question, because even folks with well-prepared rigs have a bad trip now and then, but being totally unprepared is just no fun for anyone.
I want to be ready for rubithon in July if I can only afford one locker should I go with front or rear
 
I want to be ready for rubithon in July if I can only afford one locker should I go with front or rear

I am a big believer in a front locker and a rear posi. But this only works if you have a built front axle (longfields, hubs, etc.). This is because when you lock the rear diff, the truck will want to push straight. When you lock the front, the truck pulls over an obstacle, usually allowing you to take a better line.

90% of the time when I lock a locker, I only lock the front and leave the rear open.
 
I'm sure cost will be a factor, but I like having an ARB (or similar) up front for the reasons @GRM noted. Years ago when I could only afford one, I locked the front. That said, my Detroit locker in the rear has served me well for years and I wouldn't leave home without it.
 
I agree with everything said above. We went through with my 40 on 35s, locked front and rear with sliders and some rear protection. The other 40 in our group had 33s locked front and rear with no sliders. I had essentially no damage. The other 40 had quite a bit of body damage. I suggest watching some videos if you haven't already. One of the guys in our group made a 5 part series of our trip on youtube. It'll give you ideas on what you're up against.

Here's part 1 of our trip.

 
I ran it on 32's, lockers front and rear, a sm420 and power steering..

My rockers hated it, but it made it easily (got stuck in the mud at the springs). I did not run the little sluice because I had a huge dent in my rear driveshaft and did not want to push my luck.
1606868_10202419202715414_133895035_n.jpg
 
We ran it multiple times in the 70s and 80s stone stock with 31s/33s. My pictures from those days show everyone smiling, but the post-mortem always involved beating out sheet metal or adding 'protection ' for the next trip.:)
 
We ran it multiple times in the 70s and 80s stone stock with 31s/33s. My pictures from those days show everyone smiling, but the post-mortem always involved beating out sheet metal or adding 'protection ' for the next trip.:)
Did you know a guy from back then, last name Fuller? Lived in the bay area, worked at a Toyota dealership in Redwood City in the 70's. He used to go out with the guys from the dealership and weekend-run sales floor 40's on the rubicon.
 
I spotted a stock 29" tire-ed 40 thru the first Rubithon in 1989 with no lockers. All I asked him to do was take off the running boards. No body damage.

The trail changes a lot from year to year, and even the best spotter can only do so much. The trail was VERY different two Years ago to what it was in 1983.

That said, @reddingcruiser makes a very valid point. The trail is ALWAYS going to be full of better equipped vehicles that don't want to be stuck behind a stocker all day. I am mildly guilty of this, running 33s and coarse birfs, but I have gears, lockers and over 30 years experience running the 'Con.'

IIRC, official Rubithon requirements are 33s and one locker.
 
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I ran it on 32's, lockers front and rear, a sm420 and power steering..

My rockers hated it, but it made it easily (got stuck in the mud at the springs). I did not run the little sluice because I had a huge dent in my rear driveshaft and did not want to push my luck.
1606868_10202419202715414_133895035_n.jpg
Looks like the BARE minimum was on your grille WAY back. Truckers
 
33's, rear locker, sliders, 2 inch lift I would say are the min. The first time I went through way back when I took all the bypasses and had exactly that. It was a rough couple days. My rancho leaf springs would not flex worth a s*** but I scratched and bounced my way through.
 
I'd say the minimum is- living in America dammit! Sorry- I'm so jealous!

Pete
 
Just for a little clarity, these are the actual 'minimum' requirements for the TLCA Rubithon Run.

  • Vehicle must be street legal or green sticker ed with current registration and proof of Liability Insurance
  • Battery secured (no bungees )
  • Either a single locker or lower gearing
  • Minimum 33" Tires (must have at least 2/32" of tread)
  • Spare Tire must be fully inflated and within 3 " of other tires. Tires over 37 " ( a tube / bailing wire / repair kit will suffice )
  • Tires must be aired down to a maximum of 15 psi prior to safety inspection
  • Hi Lift Jack capable of lifting vehicle
  • Tool capable of removing lug nuts (don't forget any wheel locks)
  • Front and rear re covery points
  • A tow strap (no chains or metal hooks.) Rated for twice the vehicles weight
  • Extrication Hardware (tree strap, clevis, dowels, snatch block)
  • Service Brakes: Must be able to stall engine when idling in High Range 2nd gear (1st gear if 3 speed)
  • Parking Brake: Must be able to stall engine when idling in High Range 3rd gear (2nd gear if 3 speed)
  • Head Lights, Running Lights and Brake Lights : Must be functioning properly
  • Roll Bar: Any open vehicle must have a roll bar firmly attached to the vehicle
  • Seat Belts: Required for driver and each passenger
  • Steering: Check play in wheel, condition of column and mounting hardware, knuckle arms
  • Fire Extinguisher: Must show full cha rge on gauge and/or have seal intact
  • First Aid Kit: Recommended to be as complete as is reasonably possible
  • Antenna Length: Not longer than 54", unless both ends are firmly attached to the vehicle
  • Hoses and Lines: Please do not bring a vehicle with exces sive leaks to an event. This is damaging to the environment.
  • Exhaust System: Must be intact. No open exhaust, excessive noise or excessive smoke
 

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