Builds Lumpskie's Diesel 80 build (3 Viewers)

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Joined
Jan 10, 2017
Threads
26
Messages
1,827
Location
New England, USA
Hey Guys,

I've owned my 80 for a couple of weeks now, so I think it's time to start a build thread. Here are the basics of what I started with. I consider it a mechanically solid truck that needs a little TLC in the aesthetics department.

'96 FZJ80 converted 1HD-T

Engine: 115,000 miles
Chassis: 160,000 miles

1HD-T conversion was completed by Torfab and was compression checked at 475 across all cylinders
Gturbo Grunter Turbo - 14psi (for now)
A442F from Wholesale Automatics (complete rebuilt unit, not just VB) with lockup in 3 and 4
Heavy Duty Torque Converter from Wholesale Automatics
Airdog II filter/separator
ARB front and rear lockers
Center Diff Lock
BEB's replaced by PO
Rebuilt injection pump and serviced injectors (DFIS PDX)
OME 2" (850/860 combo I believe...)
Dual batteries, Sears Diehard Advanced Gold AGM
IsoPro gauges for: Oil Pressure, EGT’s, Boost
Slee headlight wiring harness
Wilson switch wired up for glows.





N2MD1cZh.jpg


That was the starting point.
My mods are:

Dawes Boost controller - 23 psi
Fuel Pump Boost Compensator tune
GY Duratrac 315s
Modified Trail Gear Sliders (to work with my skids)
Home built flat belly skids - 1/4" T6061
Costa Fabrications Front Bumper
Rigid Dually D2 lo/hi output lights
M8000
BH3D Cell Phone/CB holder
BH3D Dual Cup Holder
PDI Intercooler
GTurbo Grunter Extreme
PDI Highflow Intake/Airbox


Here's what the Cruiser looks like now:
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3rcLBmjh.jpg
 
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The first thing that I did was buy some 315 Duratracs for it. I sure changed the way the rig looked overall.




 
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Next, I fixed the front passenger power seat. It turns out that the worm drive on the inboard side had lost its end cap which holds the assembly in alignment. I found it under the seat and screwed it back in. Seat works perfectly now!

SzBGa7Hh.jpg
 
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With big thanks to the knowledge of the diesel guys on here ( @IanB @mudgudgeon @CycloSteve @Rock40) , I believe that I am running a little rich AFR, creating high EGTs. The fix will be another 5-10psi of boost. Hopefully, I'll get lower EGTs and more power at the same time.



So, I bought a manual boost controller... it's a Dawes MKII. (Only $47 shipped!)
 
After getting tires, it was time for some basic testing on the back yard test circuit. (Wifey was out with friends and couldn't catch me!)
Deep snow testing: Pass

Basic rock flex testing (Sway bars on): Pass




Looks like I need to find some taller rocks...
 
Got yourself an Oregon rig huh?
 
Got yourself an Oregon rig huh?

Yes sir! I tried to get as far away from the New England rust as possible to buy it! That, and this swap was complete by Torfab, so I have a little more faith in it.
 
when the lockup happen for 3rd and 4th gear .? or you can control it manually ..?

The lockout happens at a certain speed... I can't remember exactly what speed but I'll try to check when I drive tomorrow. Unfortunately, I don't get to control when it happens. But, overall the transmission seems decent... for an auto.
 
Nice but you are with holding under hood p0rn.
 
Nice but you are with holding under hood p0rn.

Oops! Here's a basic pic. I can get some better ones this weekend. Better yet, maybe I'll get a startup video. It's amazing how quickly it starts even without glowing!

 
Quick question for you guys...

I measured my hub to fender distances (22" front and 23" rear) and, with the help of @GW Nugget , think I've figured out that my rig has OME 850s in front and 860s in the rear... with a lift height of about 2". After that, I looked at my lower control arm bushings and they appear to be stock. And, the truck is fairly darty (is that a word?) at the highway speeds these New Englanders drive.

From that, I deduced that I probably need some castor correction. My question is "What kind of castor correction would you recommend?" I've read some comments from guys saying that they didn't like their bushings. I've read that other guys didn't like the washer mod. And... I've read a few posts from people that didn't like castor plates.

At the end of the day, I use this rig as my daily commuter. Plus, this will be my weekend warrior-family adventure vehicle. Do you have suggestions about what castor solution would be best for me?

Thanks for the help,
 
Do you have any driveline vibrations? At 2" lift probably not if everything is up to snuff and this can hold true for a 4" lift when castor correction has not been accomplished. What I'm saying is, when you rotate the axle to correct castor angle there is a possibility of new front drive shaft vibes but probably not with a 2" lift.
You could easily install a set
Of Man-a-fre drop brackets to the frame where the front radius arms attatch. They are a simple, inexpensive bolt on solution that actually works best for your daily street use. I suggest having your castor angle determined first so you know what you are dealing with. These drop brackets come in 2,3,4" iirc.
 
@baldilocks
Thanks for the info. You're right; I don't have any drive line vibrations right now... I didn't think about castor correction introducing them. Is there any particular reason you like the drop brackets more than bushings? Just trying to learn here...
 
@baldilocks
Thanks for the info. You're right; I don't have any drive line vibrations right now... I didn't think about castor correction introducing them. Is there any particular reason you like the drop brackets more than bushings? Just trying to learn here...

Ease of install for one.
 
@baldilocks
Thanks for the info. You're right; I don't have any drive line vibrations right now... I didn't think about castor correction introducing them. Is there any particular reason you like the drop brackets more than bushings? Just trying to learn here...
Again, at 2" lift, vibes should not be an issue unless your U-joints need replacing. I don't like drop brackets or bushings for the type of off roading I do. The drop brackets are a very simple solution and the most proper for maintaining suspension geometry but they hang down and reduce ground clearance at that point. Many of us make a habit of driving over large rocks and more ground clearance is a good thing.

I use castor plates but I'm now up to 5" springs in front and even the plates leave me castor angle deficient.

If you will be using yours mostly on improved road surfaces and no rock crawling, the drop brackets will be best. If the decreased ground clearance at that bracket bothers you then bushings or castor correction trunion bearings are there for you.

Slee off road or Cruiser Outfitters can answer your questions and hook you up with what's best for you. I'm not advertising for them but they are very good sources of info because of their experience. Or you could spend a lot of time digging into Mud archives. :worms::eek:
 
General consensus is that anything other than stock toyota bushings will not last as long and will have worse ride and flex. The drop brackets allow you to run stock bushings without changing your driveline angles much at all. The downside is they hang down lower and might get bashed up in the rocks. Castor correction brackets (and washer mod) also allow you to run stock bushings, but they change your driveline angles more and might introduce vibes.
 
Hmmm... I'm planning on rock crawling it. Maybe I'll take your advice and give Slee a call. I'm not wanting to run crazy trails... just good-old fashioned crawling trails. (Colorado trails like Spring Creek, Chinaman Gulch, Holy Cross) But, the build to get it ready for that level of difficulty will be slow.
 
Installed a manual boost controller today. It only took a little over an hour... pretty straight forward!
Here's the Gturbo Grunter:

Here's the line that get's the boost controller inserted into it:

Boost controller installed:

I bumped boost up to 24psi. EGTs are staying much lower and power is up a bit too. Really, this rig needs a full tune, matching fuel, air and injection timing. But, for now it's running well enough to quit messing with it and enjoy it for a bit.


EGTs are now low enough to stay in the green and power is at a useable level. But I think the truck is still moving a little slow compared to videos people post of their 0-60 times. Do any of you guys know if there's a reputable diesel tuner in either New England or up near Montreal? I'm wondering if I should have a pro take a look.
 
I'd start by calibrating the boost compensator for your new boost level, making sure you're getting full travel on the aneroid pin, but not getting into fuel cut, and then reassess. If at that point you feel it needs more fuel, add a little bit more fuel, and reassess. I'm planning to do the same myself this summer.

You won't likely find anyone local that's an experienced tuner on these engines, but the injection pumps I believe are pretty well the same as what Cummins used, so that's where I'd start looking if I was trying to find a tuner.
 

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