Hokie LX
SILVER Star
Doubtful, but there are plenty of professional retrofitters that would gladly build you a set of lights.
Retrofit HID's and TSX Projectors into my LX470 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter deanfun
- Start date
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Doubtful, but there are plenty of professional retrofitters that would gladly build you a set of lights.
Looks great bud! I've been Retrofitting my cars and friends cars for years now! I wanted brighter headlights and pNp just blinded oncoming traffic and didn't do much for lighting up the road. You might find that the ballasts won't hold up to igniting the D2S bulb after a few months time. With my first retrofit, that's what happened to me. But I used OEM Philips 85122+ bulbs.
New to the forum and have owned a Land Cruiser for 2 days now. My first mod will be Retrofitting the headlights in a few days time.
New to the forum and have owned a Land Cruiser for 2 days now. My first mod will be Retrofitting the headlights in a few days time.
I've seen a cruiser with LS430 projectors install online. I can tell you now for a fact you won't be disappointed with the output. I have 430's in my GS & all I can say is wow
When I bake my headlights. Should I preheat the oven first? I am guessing yes.
Also, I read that I should turn off the oven during the baking duration?
Is there a certain orientation the new lens goes in ? Does it have markings for top or bottom?
Also, I read that I should turn off the oven during the baking duration?
Is there a certain orientation the new lens goes in ? Does it have markings for top or bottom?
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DirtDawg
"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
Preheat to 250, leave oven on, bake for 6-8 minutes and the housing should come right apart with a little prying.
Personally, I prefer 225 at a bit longer duration. More difficult to accidently melt the housings at lower temps. As has happened at the higher temps. If they don't come fully apart after 3 minutes of prying place them back into the oven. Have multiple prying tools available to leave in the sides you've successfully pried apart. Personally, I like to place a piece of wood on the rack to keep contact away from metal.
No need to turn oven off until you've completely separated all pieces.
Awesome job!
When you restored your lenses, did you also restore the inside of the headlight lens? Would love to hear how you did it.
When you restored your lenses, did you also restore the inside of the headlight lens? Would love to hear how you did it.
DirtDawg
"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
I've used the 250 6-8 rule on every single retrofit I've done. I'm no retro business, but have done more than I can count on my hands. Usually comes apart on the first try, never melted any plastic or damaged any housings. But I also made sure to allow the housings to have adequate cooling time before I stuck them back in for any reason.
I also set the housing on a baking pan, using wooden shims/blocks to isolate the housing from the metal pan. And even though I use the wood, I still like to let the pan cool between heating cycles. The pan really makes it easy to handle.
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- Thread starter
- #29
I'll echo wood shims. I got lucky with my first headlight, but when i baked the second one a corner of the plastic frame got a little melty. Lesson learned!
Not really saying your method is wrong. Because you and I both know it works. But to add context to my advice, 225 is generally a safer temperature that will work, even for permasealed headlights, without melting the headlights if you end up leaving them in to long. As some people I know, on their first retrofit did.
Anyone have a valid discount code for TRS?
wanting to get some parts ordered/
Thanks
wanting to get some parts ordered/
Thanks
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DirtDawg
"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
I'm sure there are some local builders to you. I'm in OKC.
thanks for the code
one last question. do i need to cut the H1 OEM wiring harness or does TRS have a adapter to use with their lights?
one last question. do i need to cut the H1 OEM wiring harness or does TRS have a adapter to use with their lights?
You need the H1 harness with a H1 input they have. All the harnesses have 9006 outputs to plug into the ballasts.
HD Relay: H1 - Headlight Relay Wire Harnesses from The Retrofit Source
HD Relay: H1 - Headlight Relay Wire Harnesses from The Retrofit Source
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The front corner light from an 80 series Landcruiser or LX450 uses the same connector to its bulb as the LX470 does to the headlight.
Just obtain one from a part out or order a cheap set on eBay. All you need is the plug to bulb harness. Cut that plug off and connect the provided 9006 harness from the TRS kit. This will plug right into you factory harness.
I just finished the tsx projector retrofit with ds2 4500 K morimoto and ballasts. All the parts are from TRS.
First impression is they're better than stock. Not as bright as I expected. Seems almost warm incandescent in color. I have a xenon depot kit in 4300 on a 2016 4Runner with stock projectors which is much brighter and whiter.
Don't know if it takes a while to break in for a color shift?
Second thing I noticed is both bulbs have a little bit of flickering or pulsing going on. If I turn it off and on it will stop flickering for a little bit but will return. No one mentioned if The anti flicker module is required.
So do you think the hid bulb or ballast that's bad?
I have a 1999 lx, anything about this particular year that might affect the hid performance?
First impression is they're better than stock. Not as bright as I expected. Seems almost warm incandescent in color. I have a xenon depot kit in 4300 on a 2016 4Runner with stock projectors which is much brighter and whiter.
Don't know if it takes a while to break in for a color shift?
Second thing I noticed is both bulbs have a little bit of flickering or pulsing going on. If I turn it off and on it will stop flickering for a little bit but will return. No one mentioned if The anti flicker module is required.
So do you think the hid bulb or ballast that's bad?
I have a 1999 lx, anything about this particular year that might affect the hid performance?
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Most of us use OEM d2s bulbs (Phillips, Osram) and OEM ballasts (denso, hella) when using OEM projectors. The morimoto is the best aftermarket stuff but OEM is better.
Your 4500k bulbs wont be white or bluish. This is a generic photo off the net, but the actual light output is better at the 4500 level which is why most OEM bulbs are that temp.
Did you install a relay harness? if so, have you triple checked the connections and ground? post up an output pic 25 yards away from a wall at night.
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Did notice that the 4500K was more yellow for the morimoto kit, so I guess this is the.normal color.Most of us use OEM d2s bulbs (Phillips, Osram) and OEM ballasts (denso, hella) when using OEM projectors. The morimoto is the best aftermarket stuff.
Your 4500k bulbs wont be white or bluish. This is a generic photo off the net, but the actual light output is better at the 4500 level which is why most OEM bulbs are that temp.
Did you install a relay harness? if so, have you triple checked the connections and ground? post up an output pic 25 yards away from a wall at night.
I installed everything that came with the morimoto elite kit. I connected the battery negative to the battery itself, should I have ground it to the chassis?
I still need to finish the install . Need to put on the rubber boots,, trim pieces and adjust head lights..
I will post pics up as soon as I finish
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