What's my 1994 3x locked 300k worth? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 24, 2006
Threads
13
Messages
262
Location
GRASS valley, CA
Times be tough and was thinking of selling my cruiser prices seem to be all over the place
The goods...
White 1994 cruiser f/r lockers , white no roof rack 324k miles runs great always passed smog 178-189 on the temp gauge, no rust clean title
New parts... rebuilt discs/transfer case , new dissy 60% 285/75-16 cooper MT
Bads...
Needs front brakes , ps line leak , side mirrors fell off , front seats worn ..usual 80 series stuff

Needs smog/red out since may /16 ( was a daily before that) just hate seeing it sit here

Was thinking $4k ?

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Photo by Pipnorcali
Photo by Pipnorcali
Motor pic
Photo by Pipnorcali
 
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Sounds about right to me...but the people on here believe 80's to be worth way more than the average rational minded human being so you could probably ask $8k and get close.
 
Not sure what smogging issue is, or if you let it lapse like insurance (not a smog zone resident), but personally If you're serious about selling you'll do better with a rig that is turnkey ready.

-Bad: The pics I scanned looked like a missing pass side mirror & a missing plastic cover on the bottom of the column.

-Good: looks like a armor bumper front, maybe a lift too?

Frankly I'd dead decide what you plan to do, fix little crap, get your records collected, really make it a sale-able rig people are inclined to buy, not a 'project 80' if it's still missing parts & then we talk a sale price.
Missing parts are something I love since we find flaws to knock the price - yours are obvious by the pics if it's still in that condition, and I'd lowball a guy selling in that general condition. Like $2K lowball.

My Sage 40th AE w/ lockers & 360K & a HG receipt from Slee I paid $4500 for. Aside from a painted over airbag & worn out steering wheel leather, all else was great.

Beyond that, need more info otherwise I can only let @LS1FJ40 say what he says best.
 
Not sure what smogging issue is, or if you let it lapse like insurance (not a smog zone resident), but personally If you're serious about selling you'll do better with a rig that is turnkey ready.

-Bad: The pics I scanned looked like a missing pass side mirror & a missing plastic cover on the bottom of the column.

-Good: looks like a armor bumper front, maybe a lift too?

Frankly I'd dead decide what you plan to do, fix little crap, get your records collected, really make it a sale-able rig people are inclined to buy, not a 'project 80' if it's still missing parts & then we talk a sale price.
Missing parts are something I love since we find flaws to knock the price - yours are obvious by the pics if it's still in that condition, and I'd lowball a guy selling in that general condition. Like $2K lowball.

My Sage 40th AE w/ lockers & 360K & a HG receipt from Slee I paid $4500 for. Aside from a painted over airbag & worn out steering wheel leather, all else was great.

Beyond that, need more info otherwise I can only let @LS1FJ40 say what he says best.[/QUOTE
The smog /reg was due and it needed front brakes and I don't have another penny to put into it , yea it's missing the mirrors and the column cover .... it's a TJM bumper and no lift I just used it as a camping/ gold mining rig ...thanks for the input I looked for a long time for a white 3x locked one here in cali and I don't see them often or they are like $10k +

$2k gets you a rolled 80 or no motor one out here high demand
 
As @LINUS said I would say...

It's worth what someone is willing to pay.

Having said that, I'd ask $6k for a locked, white, rust free Cali rig. If you don't get any interest you know it's too high.

Ask $6k. Don't give off the scent of desperation. People like me can smell that like blood to a shark. Take the mindset that you don't NEED to sell it. When you get an offer you can live with and they have cash in their grubby little mitts then take it and run. Get your finances in order and come back and buy another.

Good luck!

FWIW, a non locked, 276k 93 with a hint of surface rust in spots on the frame just sold for $3k here in Eastern Iowa. I'd easily say that yours is worth $2k+ more than that here.
 
Being that I'm cruiser mechanic and aviation mech, if I saw your rig and came to buy it I'd pick apart all those issues you mentioned and drop the price your asking for. As example needs new front disc then I'm gonna say at least I have to tear down the hubs, so since I'm there do the knuckles too unless you can provide some doc that you've done that if the wiper seals look like crap then I'm gonna assume rebuild front axle, so there's 800 bucks off your price. Missing mirrors now I got source and put those on so more discount. 324 k on engine, Toyota specs rebuild at 300k so you have any doc on head gasket or anything? Prob runs fine but will need it sooner then later. So I'd say 4K is optimistic I'd prob offer around 2 to 3k. No way your getting 8k unless someone just loves the thing. Has rear axle been rebuilt? Original hoses in engine? Original radiator? Have you used Toyota parts on stuff you have replaced?
 
I'm with @ajax1 here - you are leaving too much "low hanging fruit" for guys to pick apart & disect your asking price, so you'll need to start high just to end up fair.

And in negotions of sale price, personally one of my tactics is to say "try again - call that a mulligan" to the 1st number I either hear or am offered. I smile & say it nice, but I mean it. I don't start the 'meet in the middle' thing at the 1st number, and especially not if I smell a hint of flop-sweat.

You need to commit to selling, or not, and really get the easy stuff tightened up. If it's tight, right & solid buyers will pick up on that.

I'd decide your bottom dollar amount you would accept, and if you can't raise enough your 80 is worth more to you than a reasonable seller will produce in $100 bills.

I always go in whichever side of the coin I'm on knowing my 'just walk' number, and really a motovated buyer can cough up $500-750 more for a specific feature your 80 will provide (it's white - I'd market it heavily it the AZ & NM -even TX craigslists since white is a feature in the sunbelt) just an example.

I think my bottom mentality is that the seller is generally more desperate for $$$ than what ever the car offered - no matter how 'rare', and I use that.

As is in current condition, your return in $$$ is lower to me than you want to hear.
 
$1k-$2k. Maybe less. You'll probably make more parting it out.

Rust free, but high miles and many missing parts. As we see on HGTV - Location is everything, but curb appeal is the lead in the bat.
 
To me it's worth $0 because of the miles. I'd take it for free but wouldn't buy it for any price. To me it's a high mileage :worms:.
 
$1k-$2k. Maybe less. You'll probably make more parting it out.

Rust free, but high miles and many missing parts. As we see on HGTV - Location is everything, but curb appeal is the lead in the bat.

It's just missing one int. Piece and the mirror 1-2k doesn't get you a motorless 91-92 around here.... I'm going shoot for $4-4500 and put the pieces back in.... thanks fellas
 
Being that I'm cruiser mechanic and aviation mech, if I saw your rig and came to buy it I'd pick apart all those issues you mentioned and drop the price your asking for. As example needs new front disc then I'm gonna say at least I have to tear down the hubs, so since I'm there do the knuckles too unless you can provide some doc that you've done that if the wiper seals look like crap then I'm gonna assume rebuild front axle, so there's 800 bucks off your price. Missing mirrors now I got source and put those on so more discount. 324 k on engine, Toyota specs rebuild at 300k so you have any doc on head gasket or anything? Prob runs fine but will need it sooner then later. So I'd say 4K is optimistic I'd prob offer around 2 to 3k. No way your getting 8k unless someone just loves the thing. Has rear axle been rebuilt? Original hoses in engine? Original radiator? Have you used Toyota parts on stuff you have replaced?

I have paper for the front axel rebuild I have the mirrors just not installed , don't have any paper on the motor ( bought it with no paper trail) but the motor looks newer than 324k ... new hoses/ belts/ plugs and PHH all Toyota parts (or Ngk)
 
Do that, and take it to a detailer (or detail it yourself). I paid $5k for my first cruiser. Triple locked with 300k miles. It was detailed and polished.

It was a valuable lesson - but there are plenty out there who haven't learned it yet. NorCal is a big place. Throw it up in SoCal, too. Inland Empire. You'll find a buyer. Could be a great candidate for an LS swap.

It's just missing one int. Piece and the mirror 1-2k doesn't get you a motorless 91-92 around here.... I'm going shoot for $4-4500 and put the pieces back in.... thanks fellas
 
I've owned, and sold many cars and trucks over the course of my life, but there are a few that i wished I'd never sold. I think you'll feel that way too, if you sell your LC. I know times are tough right now for many family's, but wait and see if things pick up for you. Now if things don't pick up, you won't of lost any value in regards to your asking price, by waiting a few months to make up your mind. YMMV
 
It's your 80, so ask what you want for it. Aim high and see what offers come in. The opinions you are getting are from seasoned 80 owners. You might find someone that will pay more than you think for it. If you aren't rushed to sell, I'd ask $8k and see what happens. You never know.
 
Don't ask that question on MUD unless your rig is <100k miles and has every component rebuilt with Toyota parts.

As others have said a vehicle that isn't immediately driveable is worth much less to a buyer than one that is ready to go. If you have the means you should really get it inspected and smogged before trying to sell.

I bought a 3x locked, semi-built, rolled 80 for $1800 and I was very pleased. Most on here would call that a bad deal.

Put it for sale locally and start around 6k - see what happens. If you fixed the little issues I bet you could get that.

Remember, too, that if you list something for cheap you get all the nit-picky buyers that want something for nothing. I had an 80 listed once for $2k and all I got was low ballers. I took it off Craigslist, waited a month and relisted at $5k and sold it within two weeks for $3000. It all depends who's looking to buy when you are looking to sell.
 
$1k-$2k. Maybe less. You'll probably make more parting it out.

Rust free, but high miles and many missing parts. As we see on HGTV - Location is everything, but curb appeal is the lead in the bat.

Unless you live somewhere that has an abundance of LC's, that is is way too low.

As a rust belter, I would put a premium on the fact that it's rust free, but I wouldn't travel from WI to buy this particular rig due to miles and overall condition. I think you should have no trouble selling it for around that $4000 number if you spent a weekend giving it a through cleaning and touched up all the little stuff that others have mentioned. If you could fix the brakes, that would be a plus in my book, especially if you can't drive it safely for a test drive, etc. If it's just pads, just replace them, it's like a $40 investment that would make a buyer feel much more at ease.
 
Prices are all over the place depending on location. If that were for sale here for $4000 I'd buy it, swap the axles into my 92, and then sell it with the unlocked axles for $3800 after vacuuming the carpet and putting like 10 air fresheners in there. Classic used car salesman tactic.
 
Whatever you do don't put in your ad that you have to sell it, are broke, etc. When I see those ads I salivate and so do others. I can't believe how many ads I see (for all kinds of stuff) that say 'I'm moving in three days, it has to go.'
 

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