Nice fab/metal work..following.
My '64 FJ40 Build - Cave Cricket (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Ramination
- Start date
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78fj40mg
TLCA #23510
I do the same in my shop to stay warm, I've got lots of trees primarily ceders and pines and will never run out since evergreens grow like weeds here in the Pacific NW.
Wow! Starting to see less rust and more solid metal on this thing! The stretch job looks good!
- Thread starter
- #44
Made a little more progress today, got the drivers side stretched and hung. Then attached both quarters at the rear The rear of the tub is square within an 1/8th inch, so that made me really happy. 
Took a couple tries to get the "U" right where the tailgate will eventually go. The first time I made it exactly how I intended which was 1/4 inch too narrow, second try it was 3" too wide (I have no idea how I managed that) but nailed it on the third try!
Will need to do a little filler on the corners where the sheetmetal meets the rail. I got it as close as I possibly could but it's not a perfect match. I probably could have gotten it closer but didn't want to grind too much away and cause even more work for myself later!
Big things happening tomorrow!
Took a couple tries to get the "U" right where the tailgate will eventually go. The first time I made it exactly how I intended which was 1/4 inch too narrow, second try it was 3" too wide (I have no idea how I managed that) but nailed it on the third try!
Will need to do a little filler on the corners where the sheetmetal meets the rail. I got it as close as I possibly could but it's not a perfect match. I probably could have gotten it closer but didn't want to grind too much away and cause even more work for myself later!
Big things happening tomorrow!
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Truly an inspirational build, nice work!
- Thread starter
- #46
Well I didn't finish the weekend quite as strong as I'd hoped to, I lost a little momentum after getting both rear quarters hung but we did get some work done!
Introducing the donor truck, my old '97 Ram. While it isn't exceptional in any way, it was given to me by my dad when I turned 16, he was the the original owner. When he gave it to me it was remarkably stock aside from a new head unit, but it didn't stay that way. I'll spare you the story that every teenager does to his truck, but around the junior or senior year of college I swapped one ton axles under it - these will be donated to the FJ now.
The Ram was my DD from 16-23, then it became a toy and in the last 5-6 years has only been driven a couple thousand miles. I kept it around specifically for this purpose (donor rig), but it is bittersweet for me. I'm excited to utilize the components but sad to see it go as I've had it longer than anything else in my life. Not looking forward to the day I take the body to the crusher.
Anyhow, this is the ol Ram's final stand.
The axles came out quick. The rear is a D70, has 4.88 gears and a Detroit inside. Front is a D60 with 4.88s and a limited slip.
As I mentioned above, I swapped these axles into the truck around 2010 and they have served me well.
The front was recently rebuilt with new ball joints and hubs so I only plan to do the folllowing:
- Disk brake conversion on rear
- New rotors and pads on front
- Detroit in front
In preparation for the new suspension the first order of business was to strip them down. It took a few hours and ELEVEN sawzall blades to get the old mounts off the front. But I WON!!!
If there was ever a time in this project to have a torch or plasma I'm convinced this was it. Unfortunately I don't, but I almost did...
That's pretty much how the weekend ended, I jumped on a few other projects and the barn is a complete wreck inside now. Back at it next weekend, goal is to finish cleaning up axles and get them slung under the FJ! Oh yea and reorganize the barn!
Introducing the donor truck, my old '97 Ram. While it isn't exceptional in any way, it was given to me by my dad when I turned 16, he was the the original owner. When he gave it to me it was remarkably stock aside from a new head unit, but it didn't stay that way. I'll spare you the story that every teenager does to his truck, but around the junior or senior year of college I swapped one ton axles under it - these will be donated to the FJ now.
The Ram was my DD from 16-23, then it became a toy and in the last 5-6 years has only been driven a couple thousand miles. I kept it around specifically for this purpose (donor rig), but it is bittersweet for me. I'm excited to utilize the components but sad to see it go as I've had it longer than anything else in my life. Not looking forward to the day I take the body to the crusher.
Anyhow, this is the ol Ram's final stand.
The axles came out quick. The rear is a D70, has 4.88 gears and a Detroit inside. Front is a D60 with 4.88s and a limited slip.
As I mentioned above, I swapped these axles into the truck around 2010 and they have served me well.
The front was recently rebuilt with new ball joints and hubs so I only plan to do the folllowing:
- Disk brake conversion on rear
- New rotors and pads on front
- Detroit in front
In preparation for the new suspension the first order of business was to strip them down. It took a few hours and ELEVEN sawzall blades to get the old mounts off the front. But I WON!!!
If there was ever a time in this project to have a torch or plasma I'm convinced this was it. Unfortunately I don't, but I almost did...
That's pretty much how the weekend ended, I jumped on a few other projects and the barn is a complete wreck inside now. Back at it next weekend, goal is to finish cleaning up axles and get them slung under the FJ! Oh yea and reorganize the barn!
jim land
SILVER Star
interesting project
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- Thread starter
- #49
I finished cleaning up the axles and got them slung under the frame for maximum day dreaming potential. Wasted a few hours looking at it after that while drinking beer.
Wifey got behind the mask for the first time laying a few beads where I was a little too aggressive with the grinder cleaning up the axles. Did pretty dang good for a first timer!
Got the rest of the linkage hardware (besides the DOM) in so we were able to roughly outline where everything would sit. Resulted in a couple of changes to my calcs, most good actually but still not certain how the front upper will fit until the motor gets set in place.
Rear truss
Nice big hardware
Before I set any mounts in place I want to get the drivetrain rough set.
In the mean time I jumped on the windshield screws.
I ended up breaking two off, but got the rest out of the windshield frame. Found it was best for me to grind the heads flat, weld a 3/4" nut on and then tap tap tap with the impact after hitting it with some heat. Oh yea and weeks of Kroil.
Kind of liked it more with the windshield on!
Ive made a little progress pulling the motor, it's just so damn cold right now! Hope to get a hot fire going and make some progress this weekend though!
Wifey got behind the mask for the first time laying a few beads where I was a little too aggressive with the grinder cleaning up the axles. Did pretty dang good for a first timer!
Got the rest of the linkage hardware (besides the DOM) in so we were able to roughly outline where everything would sit. Resulted in a couple of changes to my calcs, most good actually but still not certain how the front upper will fit until the motor gets set in place.
Rear truss
Nice big hardware
Before I set any mounts in place I want to get the drivetrain rough set.
In the mean time I jumped on the windshield screws.
I ended up breaking two off, but got the rest out of the windshield frame. Found it was best for me to grind the heads flat, weld a 3/4" nut on and then tap tap tap with the impact after hitting it with some heat. Oh yea and weeks of Kroil.
Kind of liked it more with the windshield on!
Ive made a little progress pulling the motor, it's just so damn cold right now! Hope to get a hot fire going and make some progress this weekend though!
- Thread starter
- #50
Considering everything I've done in last two and a half months is quickly summed up in the next few pictures it sure seems like I haven't been doing anything! Crazy how long these builds can take, and threads like these really keep track!
Anyways, the motor and trans came out pretty easy, better than expected for my first time especially since I did it by myself. The motor was running good when I pulled it, but it sure does show its age - very dirty! The worst part is that a lot of the leaks around the valve covers are because the bolts were only finger tight.
Since parking it in the barn and pulling the motor apparently some mice thought the manifolds/heads would be a good place to store their loot (which they had stole from my work bench, based on the BBQ flavoring).
All in all, it cleaned up pretty nice.
Can't wait for the headers to arrive.
Anyways, the motor and trans came out pretty easy, better than expected for my first time especially since I did it by myself. The motor was running good when I pulled it, but it sure does show its age - very dirty! The worst part is that a lot of the leaks around the valve covers are because the bolts were only finger tight.
Since parking it in the barn and pulling the motor apparently some mice thought the manifolds/heads would be a good place to store their loot (which they had stole from my work bench, based on the BBQ flavoring).
All in all, it cleaned up pretty nice.
Can't wait for the headers to arrive.
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- Thread starter
- #51
As you can kind of see in the previous post, I started on the sliders too. Keeping them simple, although I will probably add a...kicker bar for lack of the proper term. Basically some DOM mounted up and out from the rectangular tube.
I kinked them to match the body. Probably not something most have to do, but considering the body stretch I felt I had to for cosmetic reasons.
Also put some body mounts on the front. Will eventually put some in the rear, but the main body mounts will be the cage tie ins. Anyways, after way too many hours re-engineering the body mount I reeled it back in and kept it simple with the hockey puck and tab method. Cheap and easy.
With the body finally off jackstands and mounted to the frame I was able to lift the whole frame/tub up to "ride height", defined by a 20" belly. I'm so in love! I may end up bringing it up an inch or two more though, still researching.
I did have the motor/trans/t-case in the frame at one point this weekend and was planning on building the motor and trans mounts but last minute decided to step back and wait for the headers to come in just to make sure we don't have any clearance issues. So, hopefully this upcoming weekend...
I kinked them to match the body. Probably not something most have to do, but considering the body stretch I felt I had to for cosmetic reasons.
Also put some body mounts on the front. Will eventually put some in the rear, but the main body mounts will be the cage tie ins. Anyways, after way too many hours re-engineering the body mount I reeled it back in and kept it simple with the hockey puck and tab method. Cheap and easy.
With the body finally off jackstands and mounted to the frame I was able to lift the whole frame/tub up to "ride height", defined by a 20" belly. I'm so in love!
I may end up bringing it up an inch or two more though, still researching. I did have the motor/trans/t-case in the frame at one point this weekend and was planning on building the motor and trans mounts but last minute decided to step back and wait for the headers to come in just to make sure we don't have any clearance issues. So, hopefully this upcoming weekend...
Simple and clean always stays in style. What kind of EFI are u using?
What front link set up are you going to use
3 or triangled 4 link ?
One thing I do. For setting up. My links is use pcv pipe or cheap erw tube to make temp links
Erw is nice because you can tack it to your joints and cycle the suspension
I found on mine I had to lengthen my uppers a inch
To cure a pinion angle change as Susp traveled
Would have sucked as the heavy wall Dom is stupidly exspensive here
3 or triangled 4 link ?
One thing I do. For setting up. My links is use pcv pipe or cheap erw tube to make temp links
Erw is nice because you can tack it to your joints and cycle the suspension
I found on mine I had to lengthen my uppers a inch
To cure a pinion angle change as Susp traveled
Would have sucked as the heavy wall Dom is stupidly exspensive here
- Thread starter
- #54
Indeed. The plan is to use the brains from the Ram. As I understand it, there isn't really any other options for this setup, not a big deal since I started with a fine working truck, just need to make sure it runs before dragging the Ram carcass to the boneyard.
- Thread starter
- #55
Three link front. Was planning on PVC for mock up, hrew would be nice though.
Did you use the three/four link calculators?
- Thread starter
- #56
The headers arrived today.
More this weekend!
More this weekend!
Yes I did use a link calculator unfortunately it didn't calculate pinion angle change I have almost zero roll steer think it was .6 deg the length change in the uppers made the pinion angle remain pointed directly at transfer case output through travel yes I could have adjusted it with the joints . But I like to keep as much of the joint threads in the link
rrv333
SILVER Star
This was full bump 15 inches to skid plate
It's about 22in at ride height and six ten to top of roof
- Thread starter
- #60
Ahh, yea the three link calculator doesn't do pinion angle does it? The four link does now though. Anyways, I'd planned on having equal length uppers and lowers in the front, but doesn't look like I'll be able to. I wanted them equal so one spare could fit in either spot, plus I *think* that'd minimize pinion roll through travel.
In order to accomplish that, where I'd have to mount the upper on the frame side is right where the exhaust and oil filter are, just not going to fit. There isn't room to move the motor enough to clear so I have to move the frame side link mount either forward or back. Forward mounting the mount I would need to make it go through the frame rail, otherwise it gets too high and really messes up the geometry. Regardless, making that link shorter by 4-5 inches will really hurt pinion roll. So, I'm leaning towards pulling the mount back. It'll make my upper longer than the lowers, which will roll the pinion but in a way that helps point it at t-case through the travel but would do funny things to castor through the travel right? As far as the numbers from the calcs like AS, roll center, etc, all of those numbers suggest I go with the upper link mounted further back, keeping it low and flat at ride height.
