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Likely also improved tolerances in the compressor section.
Awesome new MPPT controller with bluetooth control for $99 (3 Viewers)
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- #22
Yes I know, I kept seeing 14V ( from 13.2) flashing by as the readout went wildly up and down, but why pull it down to where it "knows" it's going to switch itself off? Bad design or do they all do that (MPPT's)?
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- #23
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
They don't all do that and I'll be curious to duplicate this issue. Is it possibly changing states, like absorb to float or something similar? It's really tough to say with a battery that is 100% full.
It was $100 which I thought was a decent price since I didn't know if it really cooled, only that the motor ran. But in brief testing, I can tell it cools just fine.
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- #25
That's really great. Good luck with it.
Sounds like maybe the kid/guy didn't really know what he had and just wanted to get rid of it. Is there a date code anywhere?
As for the CC it just went right to Bulk, drew down the voltage from the panel, and switched off repeatedly (says "off" in the charger status line). This is far from a deal breaker though, as long as I see my voltages each day get at least to where the PWM had them, if not more/faster. I should know enough in a couple more days.
The BatteryMinder stayed on longer too. As long as the sky above was lit. No idea what it was actually doing other than a voltage readout on the dash.
Hi guys, I have exactly this controller! I'm about to buy the bluetooth thing, but I already had this USB cable to figgle around with the settings.
It is really a good product, feels like a solid thing when you have it in your hands. And the documentation is great.
Yes, it is a product from the Netherlands.
Please note that the Input voltage is 75 Volt (for this 75/15A model)
This allows for a wide range of solar panels that, can be used, including the ones that normally go on your house.
What I did is search for a second left-over solar panel with high voltage. This means you normally put it on your house, but if it is only one instead of 10, and a strange old format or older power output, it isn't worth much. Then I got even more lucky, and some guy sold me this old 175 Watt panel for 20 Euro
(the Controller is 83 Euro over here)
This is a 40 Volt panel, but this of course is fine with the Victron controller. It has been working very well, I never have to plug in on campsites or anything.
Next to that, I have it connected to my Optima YellowTop 75Ah.
This is the only battery for our campervan. No separate battery system, no complicated stuff, just one battery and a configured (load) shut-off voltage of something like 11.8V
The Optima Yellowtop is so powerful that it can easily start my diesel around freezing temperatures when half full.
No need to mess around with a dual battery setup anymore
(which also saves weight and interior space)
And in fact, before switching to a single battery system, I just had it in the back on a separate battery, I did not even connect the front battery. So we went on a holiday trip with the fridge/freezer always running on the solar panel, while it could not be charged from the engine. No issues at all.
I have it combined with this compressor fridge which even has a small freezer inside!
Waeco MDC 65
Apparently, the above fridge can take a beating, because it didn't really develop any issues on our off-road holidays.
They all use the BDF 35 Danfoss compressor, and that one is also used in the box fridges, which are suitable for offroading
So:
80 Euro for the controller
20 Euro for the huge solar panel (second hand)
40 Euro (I think?) for aluminum and glue
12 Euro cable (MC3 extension cable, cut in half)
100 Euro for Optima Yellow-top 75Ah
Cold beer for me and ice for the kids: Priceless
It is really a good product, feels like a solid thing when you have it in your hands. And the documentation is great.
Yes, it is a product from the Netherlands.
Please note that the Input voltage is 75 Volt (for this 75/15A model)
This allows for a wide range of solar panels that, can be used, including the ones that normally go on your house.
What I did is search for a second left-over solar panel with high voltage. This means you normally put it on your house, but if it is only one instead of 10, and a strange old format or older power output, it isn't worth much. Then I got even more lucky, and some guy sold me this old 175 Watt panel for 20 Euro
(the Controller is 83 Euro over here)This is a 40 Volt panel, but this of course is fine with the Victron controller. It has been working very well, I never have to plug in on campsites or anything.
Next to that, I have it connected to my Optima YellowTop 75Ah.
This is the only battery for our campervan. No separate battery system, no complicated stuff, just one battery and a configured (load) shut-off voltage of something like 11.8V
The Optima Yellowtop is so powerful that it can easily start my diesel around freezing temperatures when half full.
No need to mess around with a dual battery setup anymore
(which also saves weight and interior space)
And in fact, before switching to a single battery system, I just had it in the back on a separate battery, I did not even connect the front battery. So we went on a holiday trip with the fridge/freezer always running on the solar panel, while it could not be charged from the engine. No issues at all.
I have it combined with this compressor fridge which even has a small freezer inside!
Waeco MDC 65
Apparently, the above fridge can take a beating, because it didn't really develop any issues on our off-road holidays.
They all use the BDF 35 Danfoss compressor, and that one is also used in the box fridges, which are suitable for offroading
So:
80 Euro for the controller
20 Euro for the huge solar panel (second hand)
40 Euro (I think?) for aluminum and glue
12 Euro cable (MC3 extension cable, cut in half)
100 Euro for Optima Yellow-top 75Ah
Cold beer for me and ice for the kids: Priceless
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Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I got the Victron in from Amazon and got the dongle hooked up and operating on iPhone and Android. Actually, very cool. I can pick up the bluetooth signal from my family room with the battery and charge controller out in the garage.
Once the sun is up better, I'll get it hooked to a panel and see what it does.
Now I want a 200 watt 24 volt solar panel.
Once the sun is up better, I'll get it hooked to a panel and see what it does.
Now I want a 200 watt 24 volt solar panel.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
So, count me as impressed. 7A on a February day, plus the blue tooth monitoring. The best I had seen with a PWM controller was 5.7 and that was mid summer. I'd expect about 5.4 this time of year. I'm thinking by June, just the 100 watt panel could approach 8 amps into the battery. Anyway, it's quite nice and a nice addition.
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^ yeah, but it is 'proven' there's no need for an MPPT controller when a PWM will do just fine Yes, 
Found that same controller for $89 on ebay (BT extra)
cheers,
george.
Yes, Found that same controller for $89 on ebay (BT extra)
cheers,
george.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
^ yeah, but it is 'proven' there's no need for an MPPT controller when a PWM will do just fine
Found that same controller for $89 on ebay (BT extra)
You are a trouble maker! Lol. The Bluetooth dongle thingy is kind of expensive, but it's fun to know at a glance how things are going. Without the Bluetooth there is basically no info displayed other than two blinking LEDs.
With the dongle, the first thing it prompts you to update the firmware of both the dongle, and then the charge controller itself.
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Yeah, trouble is my middle name (since I don't otherwise have one)
For sure the BT dongle is pretty well required for the geeks in us and since it allows firmware updates etc, it seems like a GOOD idea. Anyhow, wth, I ordered the controller & dongle on Ebay. Got to have something to play with when camping, right?
cheers,
george.
For sure the BT dongle is pretty well required for the geeks in us and since it allows firmware updates etc, it seems like a GOOD idea. Anyhow, wth, I ordered the controller & dongle on Ebay. Got to have something to play with when camping, right?
cheers,
george.
The MPPT controller alone doesn't give much info. In fact, much less info than most other controllers. But everything works so much better.
With the big solar panel I noticed on holidays to see that most of the time, the MPPT unit was just having the permanent led on, meaning in "float" condition, at almost any time of the day. Even though fridge was running. (so fridge is directly powered from the solar panel through the controller)
@Cruiserdrew please note that this controller takes its advantage out of higher voltage. So just one panel will have maximum of 18V, which makes it less attractive. Specifically for this controller, it would than be better to have two times 50W in series, or even 4 times 25W.
This just means you have a wider voltage range, which is ideal for the cloudy situations when you don't have perfect weather.
But if it is just a compressor cooler box on nice weather holiday trips, it should be good enough to have 100W
This model is a 75V, they also come in 100V (like 100/50 mppt). These voltage levels are actually ment for the big solar panels that you normally put on roofs.
So they are made for two solar panels in series, where the solar panels each have 72 cells in series. But of course, they can do with much less. Applying 24V solar panel setup on a 12v system is already a benefit.
With the big solar panel I noticed on holidays to see that most of the time, the MPPT unit was just having the permanent led on, meaning in "float" condition, at almost any time of the day. Even though fridge was running. (so fridge is directly powered from the solar panel through the controller)
@Cruiserdrew please note that this controller takes its advantage out of higher voltage. So just one panel will have maximum of 18V, which makes it less attractive. Specifically for this controller, it would than be better to have two times 50W in series, or even 4 times 25W.
This just means you have a wider voltage range, which is ideal for the cloudy situations when you don't have perfect weather.
But if it is just a compressor cooler box on nice weather holiday trips, it should be good enough to have 100W
This model is a 75V, they also come in 100V (like 100/50 mppt). These voltage levels are actually ment for the big solar panels that you normally put on roofs.
So they are made for two solar panels in series, where the solar panels each have 72 cells in series. But of course, they can do with much less. Applying 24V solar panel setup on a 12v system is already a benefit.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Yep, understood. I also have a 160 watt panel but it wasn't convenient to get out this morning. I'm testing my 100 watt folding panel. THe no load voltage is 21 volts. I would really like a 24 volt panel (No load voltage around 40 volts) which would have twice the number of cells, and thus twice the voltage. Then let the controller do the voltage conversion.
I have a trip planned where I will take 2 refrigerators. The one I just got is not that efficient, and combined, I'll need 8 amps at 12 volts to run them both. With the 160 watt panel, I figure I'll be close to 11 amps into the battery.
Just based on this small sample, the Victron MPPT is about 20% more efficient than my Morningstar PWM. Pretty cool.
I have a trip planned where I will take 2 refrigerators. The one I just got is not that efficient, and combined, I'll need 8 amps at 12 volts to run them both. With the 160 watt panel, I figure I'll be close to 11 amps into the battery.
Just based on this small sample, the Victron MPPT is about 20% more efficient than my Morningstar PWM. Pretty cool.
Well, like I said, if you go around to see if people have solar panels left. Just one piece of a type you normally put on a roof by the dozens. And especially if it is an older type, that does not go well with new ones (other size or amount of Watt), then it's gonna be cheap.
Over here I noticed I could sell 2 x 50W panels for a 12V system, for more than I had bought them. I used them and sold them for more. Anything with boats or campers and 12V systems was relatively expensive. While these big solar panels, let's say a 195W panel, could be bought for half the money.
That's what is great about this Victron controller, it made the total solution cheaper.
My main usage of the Bluetooth dongle is to be able to modify shut-off voltage while on the trip. And see if the installation performs as desired, every once in a while.
But on normal roadtrips, I don't check it because I have plenty of power. Also without charging by driving.
Over here I noticed I could sell 2 x 50W panels for a 12V system, for more than I had bought them. I used them and sold them for more. Anything with boats or campers and 12V systems was relatively expensive. While these big solar panels, let's say a 195W panel, could be bought for half the money.
That's what is great about this Victron controller, it made the total solution cheaper.
My main usage of the Bluetooth dongle is to be able to modify shut-off voltage while on the trip. And see if the installation performs as desired, every once in a while.
But on normal roadtrips, I don't check it because I have plenty of power. Also without charging by driving.
I'm not seeing a lot of house-type panels for sale here. Unlikely that people would replace them since most are relatively new and usually installed by a contractor who has hopefully sized the system correctly. And the junkies may not yet have figured out that these things on the roof can be sold... Some folks may also like the ability to connect a "12V" panel directly to the battery in case of an emergency such as failure of the controller, which may not be a great idea with higher voltage panels. Not a huge deal I think but a plus for the "12V" systems possibly. Anyway.
I was leaning towards a controller with a built-in display, which seem cheaper and easier than this one plus the dongle. Is this one technically much superior to most, besides the nerd phone appeal? And sounds like the dongle allows you more customization on voltages etc, is that right, or can you do it all with USB?
Well, if George bought one maybe I should too...
Some folks may also like the ability to connect a "12V" panel directly to the battery in case of an emergency such as failure of the controller, which may not be a great idea with higher voltage panels. Not a huge deal I think but a plus for the "12V" systems possibly. Anyway.I was leaning towards a controller with a built-in display, which seem cheaper and easier than this one plus the dongle. Is this one technically much superior to most, besides the nerd phone appeal? And sounds like the dongle allows you more customization on voltages etc, is that right, or can you do it all with USB?
Well, if George bought one maybe I should too...
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- #37
Drew, I saw 43 watts the other day. I played the stereo loudly for about 10-15 minutes (125W amp) with engine off, and then changed one of the settings. It seems every time you make a change it goes right into Bulk mode. That's when it jumped up to 43W and 22V.
I think this thing might work out because it seems that the 0.1V - 0.2V discrepancy in overall battery voltage between this and my old charger is because of the later switch on time and earlier switch off time (which should work itself out in the spring/summer months) and not that the old one was better. But the old BatteryMinder SCC-180 is still a pretty damn good CC! I would highly recommend it to anyone except that it's the same price as the Victron.
I think this thing might work out because it seems that the 0.1V - 0.2V discrepancy in overall battery voltage between this and my old charger is because of the later switch on time and earlier switch off time (which should work itself out in the spring/summer months) and not that the old one was better. But the old BatteryMinder SCC-180 is still a pretty damn good CC! I would highly recommend it to anyone except that it's the same price as the Victron.
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You CAN connect a '24V' panel to a 12V battery, it'll just push the panel further away from its maximum power point, no big deal for an 'emergency'. As with ANY larger output panel connected direct to a battery, you would want to keep an eye on voltage to prevent overcharge/boiling of the battery...
Once the unit is configured, you don't need the BT dongle and your tablet/phone etc., and that could be left disconnected or at home. I run an android tablet for my mapping stuff, so given it has BT, it could run the App with the BT dongle connected all the time.
Many controllers allow you to configure the battery float/bulk etc voltages, this one just does it via BT so the interface/display is in a device you already likely have with you (phone, tablet etc).
cheers,
george.
I like the simplicity of the built-in displays, actually.
And I have a separate Powermeter anyway. So the dongle does not appear critical - well, assuming you can do all the settings by USB, that is. But, yes, a cute BT toy.
You are going to show us pics of the inside of the thing and do a MPPT eval, right?
And I have a separate Powermeter anyway. So the dongle does not appear critical - well, assuming you can do all the settings by USB, that is. But, yes, a cute BT toy.
You are going to show us pics of the inside of the thing and do a MPPT eval, right?
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^ no showing pics of inside the unit. It is entirely potted beyond the connectors - which is nice from a weather proof aspect. I'll have to experiment with mppt and real world operation when the sun is really shining versus wintery/wet bay area this year - at least the reservoirs are mostly full/overflowing and the drought (at least surface water-wise) has been nipped in the bud.
Took a little effort to pair since it was busy upgrading itself, but that's all taken care of and added as a trusted device to my android pixel so it connects cleanly now. Voltage sensing of battery voltage is pretty well spot on within 10mV so that is pleasing to see.
cheers,
george.
Edit: fix some minor typos
Took a little effort to pair since it was busy upgrading itself, but that's all taken care of and added as a trusted device to my android pixel so it connects cleanly now. Voltage sensing of battery voltage is pretty well spot on within 10mV so that is pleasing to see.
cheers,
george.
Edit: fix some minor typos
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