Builds Removing SBC conversion, going back to Toyota. 1972 Frame Off (2 Viewers)

[FJ40Jim]

@FJ40Jim , is there a way to adjust the valves on a cold engine? The FSM outlines the procedure on a hot engine, but I'm starting from scratch. Also what are your thoughts on exhaust manifold vs. headers. I noticed that you are running a header on your 60.

It's a fresh engine (sorta), so just adjust valves to spec. After the engine is fired & run for ½hr, then it's time to retork manifolds, headbolts, and adjust hot valves to spec. These engines are very homogeneous, so the valve lash doesn't change much with changes in temp.

Headers can give a small bump in efficiency, but they also introduce their own problem set. More heat radiated in engine bay, leaks due to flimsy flange, leaks due to differences in thickness WRT intake manifold, etc.

 

[Jdc1]

It's a fresh engine (sorta), so just adjust valves to spec. After the engine is fired & run for ½hr, then it's time to retork manifolds, headbolts, and adjust hot valves to spec. These engines are very homogeneous, so the valve lash doesn't change much with changes in temp.

Headers can give a small bump in efficiency, but they also introduce their own problem set. More heat radiated in engine bay, leaks due to flimsy flange, leaks due to differences in thickness WRT intake manifold, etc.

Thanks, Jim.

Today, after a preschool field trip to the Fire Station, I got out the not so trusty Harbor Freight cut off tool and made some room on the radiator shroud for the belts and crank pulley. Touched up the cuts and it's ready to go in. I still need to figure out a belt for the Saginaw Pump and finish that up.

 

[Jdc1]

Picked up a feeler guage set, adjusted valves and switched my attention to installing the Jim C recurved distributor. At first it didn't want to seat. I took a flashlight and checked the oil pump and it was off by a few degrees. I took a long screwdriver and adjusted per FSM (thank you again @Trollhole ). After making the adjustment, the distributor slid right in and seated against the block. Installed new Cap and rotor and OEM wire set. Next up is to track down the correct length belt for the Saginaw pump.


Incorrect:

Incorrect:

 

[Jdc1]

 

[TractorDoc]

Looking Nice!

I see you have discovered (as I did) the battery tray makes a fine tool holder. Much better and stable than setting tools on the tire -- I would always end up with a tire tool pile and before too long they would topple and cover the floor.

Any progress from the body shop on the blasting process? I know the temps were nice this week but I also know we had a couple rainy days as well.

Ill be watching for more engine progress. . . and copy your efforts/make sure I am doing everything right on my end!!

 

[Jdc1]

Looking Nice!

I see you have discovered (as I did) the battery tray makes a fine tool holder. Much better and stable than setting tools on the tire -- I would always end up with a tire tool pile and before too long they would topple and cover the floor.

Any progress from the body shop on the blasting process? I know the temps were nice this week but I also know we had a couple rainy days as well.

Ill be watching for more engine progress. . . and copy your efforts/make sure I am doing everything right on my end!!

Thanks, Doc. I dont have a bench in my garage and am constantly adapting different "techniques" as I go. The battery tray is great for resting tools, as is the lower splash guard.

The news from the body shop is soon. They really helped us out of a jam by squeezing us into the schedule to get the metalwork completed. My dad and I stopped in Wednesday and I snapped a pic of one of the chassis of their restorations. I'm not sure I can go into detail, but this shouldn't show too much (it's absolutely stunning in person):

 

[FJ40Jim]

JDC, it looks like the timing might be off on the dissy. To set timing exactly right, park engine w/ BB on pointer, both valves loose on #1, both tight on #6. Get rotor pointing in the neighborhood of #1 tower on cap (you're there now) and set tooth of starwheel exactly at pickup blade.
There is a good drawing in the 1978 supplement chapter of the Haynes FJ40 manual.

BTW, I need to stop up your way sometime soon to get a carb off dad's 40 and maybe rifle through some of your old junk vintage parts.

 

[Jdc1]

JDC, it looks like the timing might be off on the dissy. To set timing exactly right, park engine w/ BB on pointer, both valves loose on #1, both tight on #6. Get rotor pointing in the neighborhood of #1 tower on cap (you're there now) and set tooth of starwheel exactly at pickup blade.
There is a good drawing in the 1978 supplement chapter of the Haynes FJ40 manual.

BTW, I need to stop up your way sometime soon to get a carb off dad's 40 and maybe rifle through some of your old junk vintage parts.

Thanks Jim, Let me know what works for you. I'll be heading down that way late April and can drop off hatch and carb if needed. Attached pic is where the rotor is now w/ #1 valves loose and pointer on bb...

 

[Jdc1]

Yesterday was a sunny 70+ degree day. Today it's snowing, cloudy and 35. Spent the morning at the soccer dome, ate lunch, started the wood furnace and then took an epic nap in front of the TV. In order to feel like I accomplished something today, I played with the hoses for about 10 minutes(clamps are not tight).

 

[FJ40Jim]

Attached pic is where the rotor is now w/ #1 valves loose and pointer on bb...

View attachment 1409076

That looks more righter.

Pull off the rotor and verify that the tooth of the starwheel is exactly lined up on center of the pickup. If it is, then the timing is set perfectly and engine will start right up.

Edit: install manifolds, carb, fuel line, alternator, then install hose clamps so screws will be out of the way but accessible to tighten even with radiator & shroud in place. It is easy to place a screw for good access now, only to find its impossible to get to with other things installed.

 

[Jdc1]

That looks more righter.

Pull off the rotor and verify that the tooth of the starwheel is exactly lined up on center of the pickup. If it is, then the timing is set perfectly and engine will start right up.

Edit: install manifolds, carb, fuel line, alternator, then install hose clamps so screws will be out of the way but accessible to tighten even with radiator & shroud in place. It is easy to place a screw for good access now, only to find its impossible to get to with other things installed.

Thanks Jim!

 

[Chungas Revenge]

epic nap

^^ Helps you focus

Your TLC is moving into the "Museum piece" arena...So well done. As a result, I've put blinders on the mule..!!

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Your TLC is moving into the "Museum piece" arena...So well done. As a result, I've put blinders on the mule..!!

I feel the same, I browsed through the whole thread again this weekend, I would be embarrassed to park my 40 within sight of this one!

 

[Jdc1]

^^ Helps you focus

Your TLC is moving into the "Museum piece" arena...So well done. As a result, I've put blinders on the mule..!!

I feel the same, I browsed through the whole thread again this weekend, I would be embarrassed to park my 40 within sight of this one!

Thanks for the kind words, I am happy with how it's turning out. We have to go back through and touch up some areas that got scratched during bodywork or where our humid weather has pointed out areas that need some attention (the backs of the oem wheel cylinders).

I am trying to balance practicality and neuroticism to get this thing back on the road.

 

[Jdc1]

Newest @Racer65 gems:

 

[Jdc1]

My belts are supposed to be in tomorrow morning. Oreilly ordered 5 different sizes of Gates belts for me to dial in the power steering belt. When the steering box was built, West TX Offroad recommended going to an -6 adaptors for the high pressure lines.

I will be ordering the rest of the fittings and braided SS hose from AN Fittings and Stainless Steel Lines .

 

[Jdc1]

I feel the same, I browsed through the whole thread again this weekend, I would be embarrassed to park my 40 within sight of this one!

Ryan, don't sell yourself short.

 

[RustyNailJustin]

There are very few builds that have titles like this that turn my crank but this ain't one of them. Good job dude.

 

[Jdc1]

There are very few builds that have titles like this that turn my crank but this ain't one of them. Good job dude.

Thanks alot, if the mounts wouldn't have been booger welded(I knocked them off with a BFH) we would have started the 350 and been wheeling 2 years ago. It kind of spiraled out of control. Also, thanks for selling me the 60 birfs and congrats on the KOTH podium.

 

[Jdc1]

Was able to get belts squared away for PS and Alternator. Found out that the shroud needs some more trimming for the alternator belt and that I have the wrong lower radiator hoses. The power steering pump is close to where it will live after a trip to lowes for a shorter standard bolt and a sleeve to secure the pump.