I did an extended oil runtime test and took samples (2 Viewers)

[Mike6158]

Actually I take samples every time I change the oil. I'm pretty happy with the results. I didn't plan to go as long as I did. Total miles on the LC - 187,880 at the time of fluid changes. Here's what Blackstone Labs says about my fluid changes.

Engine Oil change with Mobil 1 at 12,436 miles:

Extended oil use is no problem for this engine's wear metals. This past oil run is nearly double the typical oil change interval, and each wear metal is still within the average range. That's impressive. Silicon didn't go in the direction we hoped, but with wear metals in such great shape we don't suspect it to be harmful. Either way, be sure to keep an eye on the air filter for any excess dirt and the intake system for cracks just to be safe. The TBN is fine at 2.9, and no fuel or water was found so feel free to extend further. Try 14,000 miles next time. Great report!

I probably should have noted that I changed the air filter this time. The dirty air filter might have had something to do with the silicon being high.

Front Diff Amsoil Severe Gear 75W 110 at 35,009 miles:

Silicon is still high, but it's moving in the right direction in the latest sample from the front differential. In that instance, we can still be looking at residual sealers taking their time washing out. If it continues to trend in the right direction, that'll keep us satisfied. Iron saw a large improvement, reading well within the average range. The oil's physical properties are on target; there's no contamination to speak of and there's just a trace of insolubles (oxidized solids), so there's no indication of heat damage to the oil. Try 40,000 miles next and see how things look.

Transfer Case Amsoil Severe Gear 75W 100 at 35,009 miles:

Wear metals are still high for this transfer case, but there's a LOT of progress compared to the first sample we saw. Each wear metal improved substantially, which is what we hope to see after the factory fill is changed out. Residual break-in material will take a few oil changes before it disappears and metals look normal. Things are certainly moving in the right direction. Silicon found its way into the average range, so factory sealers and lubes washed out. No contamination was found and insolubles were low so the filtration system is doing its job. Try 30,000 miles next.

Rear Diff Amsoil Severe Gear 75W 100 at 35,009 miles:

The rear differential is still in good shape. Iron increased compared the last sample, but is still well within the average range so we aren't concerned. This sample from the rear differential doesn't indicate any mechanical issues to speak of. The oil's physical properties have no surprises, which is always good news. There's no contamination to speak of, and the insolubles level is fine for the rear differential as well. Try 40,000 miles next and check back to see the results.

I changed to Mobil 1 when I changed the diff and transfer case fluids simply because it's easier to find. Amsoil is a great product and I prefer their containers to Mobil 1 because I can pump out of them easier.

 

[mrbigboy]

What oil filter are you using?

 

[Mike6158]

What oil filter are you using?

Toyota 90915-YZZD3

 

[2001LC]

Some good data there, thanks for posting.

I find interesting BS Labs recommends reducing interval for transfer case. I use the visually method and find the same. That is transfer case gear lube darkens sooner then differentials, and front differential darks soon than rear. So I'd say they are I are spot on. Personally I don't press my fluid change to the limit. I tend to change earlier rather then later.

When I reading Mobile One's grantee on M1 EP 15K mile oil, they require the use of their synthetic oil filter.

 

[Mike6158]

"Normally" I wouldn't have gone that far. All of the other engine oil changes were 7k-8k tops while they were recommending 10k. I just lost track of time and distance last year. The diffs and xfer case were in the cue for "the next oil change" so they got dragged into a little higher mileage than I normally would change too. But since I went way over I thought I would share the info and let people make their own call. I don't think I would shoot for extended intervals unless I was willing to spend the dinero on oil sampling. YMMV

The Toyota filter seems to have worked fine. I understand why Mobil would want to control filtration on high change intervals. A lot of people will buy the cheap filter and at higher intervals that might not be such a good idea <-- understated...

My dad was a big fan of Havoline oil. That was some sludge making crap burt the marketing was good. Times have changed

 

[Eliot]

To add to this, I recently did an engine oil analysis by BS. Pretty much same results here. 2UZ had 265k miles on it. Using Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30 with Mobil 1 M1-209 filter.

It looks like you've got a typical Toyota engine here - it looks great! The far right column shows average results for the 4.7 V8 at 6,700 miles. Your results at 8,955 miles show wear at good levels and in the proper balance - we see no reason for concern here. The only item on the report to earn a highlight was viscosity for being slightly high - that's harmless. There was no indication of fuel, coolant, or water contamination, and air & oil filtration look to be in fine shape. Go ahead and increase the oil change interval to 11,000 miles and check back to see effects

The Toyota filter seems to have worked fine. I understand why Mobil would want to control filtration on high change intervals. A lot of people will buy the cheap filter and at higher intervals that might not be such a good idea <-- understated...

Just my 2 cents: I tend to use the oil filter that matches the oil. I assume Mobil 1 chemical engineers are testing their oils with their filters in the lab. Makes me feel a little bit better about my oil/filter choice.

 

[suprarx7nut]

This is a great post. I'm a HUGE proponent of long oil intervals. I go at least 10k between changes and 5k between new oil filters on both my Cruiser and my Supras - both of which get driven hard. I've had blackstone kits in my garage for years, but never actually taken the time to send them out. Really neat to see some results on a long interval - and Blackstone suggesting you go even longer on engine oil!

 

[crimsonaudio]

I run 12-15k between changes and get an oil report from Blackstone every time, here was my last one, at 12,971 miles:

 

[tabraha]

This is a great post. I'm a HUGE proponent of long oil intervals. I go at least 10k between changes and 5k between new oil filters on both my Cruiser and my Supras - both of which get driven hard. I've had blackstone kits in my garage for years, but never actually taken the time to send them out. Really neat to see some results on a long interval - and Blackstone suggesting you go even longer on engine oil!

The 2UZ-FE is one of the best engines on oil out there. Been doing 14k intervals for over a decade now on them. I just use M1 and the M1 filter and have had very boring results but that's a good thing.

Here's a 13 year old post of my first shot at extended OCI. That engine is now closing in on 260,000.
Oil Analysis back on 5w-30 M1 for 12k miles

 

[2001LC]

Keep in mind Mobil has a 20K mile oil & filter now. But just as all synthetic oils they're only good for 1 year in crankcase, 3 years opened & 5 years sealed.

 

[apdxyk]

Just sharing here, no recommendations and no used oil tests at hand, I did once at 8k miles and it was stellar on M1 0W-40.

I am planning to use Lubrication Engineers 90W gear oil next time around for the differentials. I use Motive 1475 Power Fill Pro XL 2.0 (I have 2 of those) to make it easy. Mobil Delvac 75W-90 is in the differentials and transfer case right now. I also used Chevron Delo ESI 80W-90 in the rear differential with success - can easily go for 60k miles in the rear. The front differential is the one to watch. It is my understanding the sump capacity was reduced (?) after the first 2 years of production. My manual recommends 90W oil for the differentials first. it is also worthy of note that the standard was revised for the gear oil weights, the kinematic viscosity is thinner now for the 90 derivatives, so the 110 weight the OP used is a good thing IMHO. They should all switch to ISO standard, but it is a matter of perspective, of course.
All in all, Mobil Delvac 75W-90 is a great gear oil, if you want to standardise with one item in your garage. it is good for gears and it is good for seal longevity.

I also use Mobil Australia site for cross reference purposes. Cannot find the Shell UAE link at the moment - another good reference.

 

[tacoduck]

I'm running 10k OCI's in both my ujz100's I would run longer, but like knowing to change the oil every 10k miles. Helps me to track it. I wonder if a potential buyer for my truck down the line would question my OCI. 15k OCI sounds like neglect to many.

 

[SWUtah]

I run 12-15k between changes and get an oil report from Blackstone every time, here was my last one, at 12,971 miles:

Thanks for the info I'm using the same oil usually change every 5000 which looks like kind early guess I'll run those were not there almost 10,000

 

[ad27326]

Any oil test out there on non synthetic and Toyota filter? I go 5k, just wondering!

 

[calskibum]

Any oil test out there on non synthetic and Toyota filter? I go 5k, just wondering!

I'm also interested in this. I run the Chevron Supreme 5W-30 from Costco with Toyota filters. The LC is not my DD anymore so it doesn't get much miles on it, maybe just 4000-5000 per year from some road trips or camping trips. Anyone knows how long non-synthetic oils like the Chevron Supreme can stay in the engine on low usage LCs?

 

[Spike555]

I'm also interested in this. I run the Chevron Supreme 5W-30 from Costco with Toyota filters. The LC is not my DD anymore so it doesn't get much miles on it, maybe just 4000-5000 per year from some road trips or camping trips. Anyone knows how long non-synthetic oils like the Chevron Supreme can stay in the engine on low usage LCs?

Using dino lube you're fine to stay with your 5,000 mile/once a year oil change as long as you dont find water or fuel in your oil.
You don't have to worry about the oil wearing out, you have to worry about contamination. If you drove 20k a year then you'd have to worry about the oil wearing out.
Remember that condensation forms inside the engine, when the oil gets hot that condensation evaporates off the surfaces of the engine and out of the motor oil, but the oil must reach full operating temp and stay there long enough for the water to evaporate. How much water will determine how long the engine needs to run.
A rule of thumb is 30min.
If you see water on the dipstick at all change the oil.
Personally if I were you I'd go full syn and change it once a year.

 

[stainlesssteve]

Great to see you guys using oil analysis. I am a Mobil Oil distributor. Under the right program and conditions it is not unusual to see ODIs of 100,000 miles in OTR trucks. I would caution that the word synthetic does not automatically mean better performance over a non synthetic.

 

[Spike555]

Great to see you guys using oil analysis. I am a Mobil Oil distributor. Under the right program and conditions it is not unusual to see ODIs of 100,000 miles in OTR trucks. I would caution that the word synthetic does not automatically mean better performance over a non synthetic.

THIS!!

I drive for a living, in order to increase profits you need to reduce down time, that means running all fluids as long as possible, right up to their fail point, not after, not long before. Even one extra PM a year means lost revenue. But running with worn out motor oil costs money in excessive wear.
Oil filters do not matter as much as the oil does.
Everytime that truck comes off the road it is costing you money, money in lost revenue, money in repairs, money in maintence...if those wheels are not turning, you are loosing money.

Personal vehicles it does not matter as much. The car will rust out long before the engine gives up the ghost unless it is totally neglected.

 

[Jeepster09]

My philosify has always been "oil is cheaper than parts" why risk it. Cool you can save a few bucks on oil change, why risk camshft failure due to dirty oil. Cams usually fail first from dirty oil. How many oil changes will pay for a new camshaft?

 

[Jeepster09]

Like the old comericials "you can pay me now or pay me later" these spoke some truth. Do what you want, but for me I go with more frequent fluid changes. It also true of brake fluid changes...I have seen failed anti lock modules due to brake fluid that had asorbed to much moisture and caused a shuttle valve to stick. You can't buy just the valve, you buy the entire module usually in the thousand dollar range...the choice is yours.