Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ (3 Viewers)

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Newbie here with rookie question, could someone please let me know the qty of the following parts needed for the job? Thanks very much.
Studs, 90126-12005
Nuts, 94115-71200
Flat washers, 90201-12019
Cones, 42323-60020

These are considered re-usable parts unless damaged.
 
4. Get some old refrigerator boxes to lay in the ground. Makes for easy clean up.

I like to use cheap shower curtains. I used two for my rebuild; on for each side during the birf swap.

When done, either wipe clean or roll up and throw away.
 
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I like to use cheap shower curtains. I used two for my rebuild; on for each side during the bird swap.

When done, either wipe clean or roll up and throw away.

haha I just put our old shower curtain under my drivers side on sat night when I was starting to clean the gunk off

must be one of those great minds think alike kinda things
 
haha I just put our old shower curtain under my drivers side on sat night when I was starting to clean the gunk off

must be one of those great minds think alike kinda things
Wish I could say I thought of it. I inherited it from my father in-law, but he was a good man.
 
Has anyone experienced Toyota OEM studs stripping before getting to 26ft lbs.

Brand new studs ordered from Toyota. 3 stripped on US driver side, 4 on US passenger.

IMG_0420.JPG
 
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Has anyone experienced Toyota OEM studs stripping before getting to 26ft lbs.

Brand new studs ordered from Toyota. 3 stripped on US driver side, 4 on US passenger.

View attachment 1408848
I have snapped one before. Maybe your torque wrench needs calibration.
 
I have snapped one before. Maybe your torque wrench needs calibration.

Maybe...it's been a while since I had them calibrated.

I replaced the stripped studs and had no problems with the replacements. Wonder if it was just a "bad batch". The ones that stripped were all in a sealed bag from Toyota.

Dremel with a cut off wheel, left hand drill bits, large screw driver, vise grips, and patience were my friends last night.
 
Maybe...it's been a while since I had them calibrated.

I replaced the stripped studs and had no problems with the replacements. Wonder if it was just a "bad batch". The ones that stripped were all in a sealed bag from Toyota.

Dremel with a cut off wheel, left hand drill bits, large screw driver, vise grips, and patience were my friends last night.
Are the correct nuts being used? That area of stripped threads looks rather small compared to the depth/length of the oem nuts which contain more threads than a nut someone may have picked up at a hardware store.
 
Are the correct nuts being used? That area of stripped threads looks rather small compared to the depth/length of the oem nuts which contain more threads than a nut someone may have picked up at a hardware store.

I would assume yes. They were all in the same bag and worked on 7 of the 12 studs. They are OEM from the Toyota dealer. I was able to back the nuts off of the studs in the picture. The US passenger side involved a little bit more creativity, as the nuts would spin freely, no matter what direction.
 
I am able to get the knuckle off of the axle without removing the steering arm and still replace the trunnion bearings. Do I necessarily have to take off the steering arm?
 
Yes, the steering arm must be removed because the bottom trunion bearing is seated by a boss built into the mounting plate on the steering mount.
 
Yes, the steering arm must be removed because the bottom trunion bearing is seated by a boss built into the mounting plate on the steering mount.
Thanks for the reply. I pulled the bearing off the mounting and slid the new one on there no problem and put everything back together and the preload was fine. I guess I should go back and redo it with the knuckle arm removed. Do I have to use the equivalent of SST 09606-60020 when seating the bearings?
 
Thanks for the reply. I pulled the bearing off the mounting and slid the new one on there no problem and put everything back together and the preload was fine. I guess I should go back and redo it with the knuckle arm removed. Do I have to use the equivalent of SST 09606-60020 when seating the bearings?

Nah, it will find it's center when you remount the steering arm. Just watch that it mounts up evenly when tightening the knuckle and top trunion mount.
 
Out of curiosity, what would happen if I don't take off the knuckle arm and just replace the bearings/ races?
 
Has anyone experienced Toyota OEM studs stripping before getting to 26ft lbs.

Brand new studs ordered from Toyota. 3 stripped on US driver side, 4 on US passenger.

View attachment 1408848


Yes! My rear studs stripped and snapped so I replaced all of them including washers and nuts. They are cheap from mud vendors and well with piece of mind. If it wasn't for me being too lazy I would replace all of my front studs too. Although none of my front stuff had any issues, but rear is a different story.

I say if you are doing rear axle rebuild you should always replace the studs. It really doesn't take that long, infact it would have taken shorter had I not have to deal with broken studs and all the rework to replace them anyways.
 
Yes! My rear studs stripped and snapped so I replaced all of them including washers and nuts. They are cheap from mud vendors and well with piece of mind. If it wasn't for me being too lazy I would replace all of my front studs too. Although none of my front stuff had any issues, but rear is a different story.

I say if you are doing rear axle rebuild you should always replace the studs. It really doesn't take that long, infact it would have taken shorter had I not have to deal with broken studs and all the rework to replace them anyways.

Mine were brand new studs from Toyota
 
I just did mine last night without any stripping issues. I found most were very loose so I torqued the studs in at 60 lbs then reassembled and torqued the nuts to 71 lbs per the FSM.
 
In the middle of my rebuild and noticed the top of the inner knuckle housing around the bearing races is extremely gouged (on both sides) - pics attached. Is this normal or do i need to replace the inner knuckle housing? I was just planning on switching sides with the birfs.

It was mostly diff oil in the housing when i pulled apart - could that cause this excessive wear?

IMG_1845.JPG
 

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