Builds SuperDuper's BJ42 Build (1 Viewer)

[MadmanCruiser]

I'm not sure of anything when it comes to this...however I am willing to spend a bit of time finding out. I am certain that I don't have the parking brake but I know that my backing plate definitely has 4 bolts, and going by memory the bolt pattern I thought was similar. Will have to find out this weekend.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Any guess what I spent an hour or so trying to do? I think the name of the beer sums up what I'd like to rename the part.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Why do people put them in so tight?

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

I'm scratching my head on that one because it's pretty frequently brought up when searched.

The crush washer was still there. I guess I'm going to make the switch to the magnetic Allen head fill & drain plugs.

Why do people put them in so tight?

Finally got around to ordering new drain plugs & crush washers. Ordered OTC hex bit sockets and torqued these to 39 ft-lbs. the cable locker takes up more volume than the open differential. The capacity is right about 3 quarts of gear oil. I'm using Valvoline 75w-90 synthetic gear oil.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

The full-floating axle had the brake line junction/breather on the opposite side as well as sway bar brackets. I removed the sway bar brackets, fabricated e-brake brackets and welded them to the housing.

Using the brake lines from the BJ42's original semi-floating axle, I determined the location of the breather/brake line junction for the full-floating axle. Drilled the axle, used a 10 x 1.25 tap to match the junction fitting. I then cleaned out the metal shavings inside of the tube.

Up next: install the differential studs, the cable locking diff & the axle shafts.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Chased the threads to re-install the differential studs with a 10 x 1.25 tap. 2 longer studs are required to accommodate installing the cable locking differential. I'm missing two of the standard length studs. I must have destroyed them and tossed them out when disassembling the axle (almost a decade ago). Looks like I'll be off to the dealer tomorrow morning. I was hoping to button up the axle this weekend... bummer.

Before installing the differential last night, I saw some sludge that needed cleaning and decided to brushed some teeth. You can see why the differential opening of the axle needs to be modified to accommodate a cable locker.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Swap 24 volt for 12 volt Alternator

I purchased a 12 volt alternator from a BJ42. Unfortunately, it didn't arrive in one piece. Poor packaging and the pulley was too brittle to survive the trip. I'll be removing the pulley from the 24 volt alternator that came with my BJ42 to use. Additionally, I purchased a rebuilt alternator for a 1983 Toyota Truck Pickup 2WD (Diesel) 2.2L Diesel 4cyl. The output is rated 55 Amps. The rebuilt alternator' pulley has the wrong offset & it did not come with the vacuum pump.

Here's a side by side shot of the 12 volt BJ42 alternator next to the Pickup alternator. My objective is to utilize the rebuilt alternator using the parts (vacuum pump & pulley) from the BJ42 alternators. I removed the vacuum pump to be used on the rebuilt unit.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Convert 2F radiator for a 3B w/power steering

I purchased a new OEM 2F radiator and ran it for a couple years before removal & long-term storage. Now, I'm ready to dust off the 2F radiator to use with the bottom tank of the 3B radiator. The goal is to merge them into a radiator that accommodates the location of the OEM power steering setup on the 3B.

Recoring radiators is becoming a lost art. Most radiator shops just want to replace them with a new unit and lack the ability to repair or recore what you have. I found Pro-Core Heat Transfer Solutions located in Woodbridge, Virginia. The online reviews were good and included a positive review from a customer who had his Land Cruiser's radiator repaired. I called them up to describe my needs and arranged a time to drop off the radiators.

Mike, the owner greeted me as I walked up to the shop. We spoke about removing the 3B radiator's bottom tank to replace the 2F radiator's bottom tank. One day later, the radiator was ready (replaced bottom tank, pressure tested & paint). Here's a shot of Mike and his shop:

I was very pleased with how things turned out and the bill was only $75. I gave Mike a 6-pack of his favorite brews to thank him for his craftsmanship & quick turnaround. Here's a before & after shot of the two radiators I'm using for the project.

Before:

After: (If you look closely, you can see the 3B radiator was previously rebuilt with 4-cores)

I'm a firm believer in supporting local businesses whenever possible. Here's a link to Pro-Core's website:

Pro-Core Heat Transfer Solutions

 

[greenbeast]

Convert 2F radiator for a 3B w/power steering

I purchased a new OEM 2F radiator and ran it for a couple years before removal & long-term storage. Now, I'm ready to dust off the 2F radiator to use with the bottom tank of the 3B radiator. The goal is to merge them into a radiator that accommodates the location of the OEM power steering setup on the 3B.

Recoring radiators is becoming a lost art. Most radiator shops just want to replace them with a new unit and lack the ability to repair or recore what you have. I found Pro-Core Heat Transfer Solutions located in Woodbridge, Virginia. The online reviews were good and included a positive review from a customer who had his Land Cruiser's radiator repaired. I called them up to describe my needs and arranged a time to drop off the radiators.

Mike, the owner greeted me as I walked up to the shop. We spoke about removing the 3B radiator's bottom tank to replace the 2F radiator's bottom tank. One day later, the radiator was ready (replaced bottom tank, pressure tested & paint). Here's a shot of Mike and his shop:

View attachment 1417880

I was very pleased with how things turned out and the bill was only $75. I gave Mike a 6-pack of his favorite brews to thank him for his craftsmanship & quick turnaround. Here's a before & after shot of the two radiators I'm using for the project.

Before:

View attachment 1409260

After: (If you look closely, you can see the 3B radiator was previously rebuilt with 4-cores)

View attachment 1417822

I'm a firm believer in supporting local businesses whenever possible. Here's a link to Pro-Core's website:

Pro-Core Heat Transfer Solutions

What wheels do you have in the previous pics? Those look great!

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

What wheels do you have in the previous pics? Those look great!

Thanks! The rims are 16 inch Toyota split rims. The 16 inch size gave me a wider range of tire options than the 15 inch size. Just something to think about if your looking to buy a set.

 

[SugarBear]

Great thread so far! Wish I could do half the stuff you can. What's the purpose of the tire lube & talc, and where do you put it?
Thanks!

 

[cruisedeisel]

Yupp! Sick 16" split rims. They look so tough.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Great thread so far! Wish I could do half the stuff you can. What's the purpose of the tire lube & talc, and where do you put it?
Thanks!

I'm an amateur. There's some incredible talent in the mud community that makes this stuff look like kiddie play. Everyone starts someplace though. The tire lube helps with slipping the tire bead on the rim for proper seating. It also helps to prevent corrosion and the tire from fusing to the rim. Anyone who has removed the original rubber spring bushings from the spring hangers of an old Cruiser will know what I'm talking about. The talc helps prevent the inner tube from bunching up inside the tire and also slows oxidation of the rubber as it degrades over time.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

If Santa Claus was a sand blaster then it was Christmas In June!

 

[roma042987]

Nice work! I built up some of those axles myself. In hindsight I wish I would have left the rear brake junction on the left side like yours. I moved it over to the right side like a u.s. spec 40 and ended up having to space the breather and junction to clear the locker arm. Also would have looked much cleaner without that line running across firewall and next to the exhaust. (HZ engine)

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Nice work! I built up some of those axles myself. In hindsight I wish I would have left the rear brake junction on the left side like yours. I moved it over to the right side like a u.s. spec 40 and ended up having to space the breather and junction to clear the locker arm. Also would have looked much cleaner without that line running across firewall and next to the exhaust. (HZ engine)

Oh, interesting.... My thinking was the rear axle breather was placed on the opposite side of the exhaust manifold; I didn't even think about how the placement would impact the locker. Ha ha... just when I think I have it figured out, Mr. Toyota goes and show me he has a few tricks up his sleaves. Looks like I got lucky this time... makes up for the other times I guessed wrong.

 

[roma042987]

Yeah I'm not sure what the logic from Toyota was. I built two full floaters one was from a 45 like yours other was from a 42 and they had the breathers on different sides.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Finally wrapping up modifying the new H55F with the correct 3B input shaft, 3B bearing retainer & 40-series top plate.

Starting to rebuild and convert the FJ62 transfer case I picked up from @TLEX to a manual shift.

The shifting fork needs to be removed from the vacuum actuated shaft and attached to the corresponding manual shaft with a roll pin.

Here's the assembled shaft and fork for conversion:

 

[ERNRAM]

Finally wrapping up modifying the new H55F with the correct diesel input shaft, bearing retainer & top plate.

Starting to rebuild and convert the FJ62 transfer case I picked up from @TLEX to a manual shift.

View attachment 1477146

Rare top plate?

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

That's the H55F 40-series top plate installed in the previous post. Here's a picture of the top plate next to the one that came with the new H55F:

Here's my ghetto-fab parts washer setup I used to clean the internal parts of the 62 transfer case: Plastic bucket & spray bottle using only the highest quality solvent (WD-40) to remove all of the fine metal silt that had accumulated on the internal pieces. It worked out very well since I don't have the space for a parts washer.

Aside from converting the vacuum actuated 4WD transfer case to a manual setup; I swapped the breather (the spring loaded cap is removed) for a vent pipe (p/n: 36149-60070) so that I can relocate to higher location on the truck.