Injection Pump question (2L-T2 mechanical) (1 Viewer)

[Dprio34]

I am swapping out a 2L-T for a 2L-T2. The 2L-T2 has additional "cannon" plugs for the Injection Pump that the 2L-T did not have. My question is if anyone knows, there is a blueish anodized electrical input at the top of the Injection Pump on the 2L-T2. Will the engine run without any electric input to that.

I am going to have to splice the wiring harnesses, and would rather not have to splice anymore than is necessary, just what is required to get it running correctly.

The 2L-T Injection Pump Toyota part number is: 22100-54263 / Denzo 096000-3060
The 2L-T2 Injection Pump part number is: 22100-5B280 / Denzo 096000-6250

Here are the pictures:

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I think the plug in the pictures is for a throttle position sensor. Likely used only by the emissions computer, so I would think you do not have to use it.

Interesting to see the two tags on your injection pumps. The old one is a 9mm pump, and the new one is a 10mm pump. Pressures are different too (2200 vs 2100). So you'll definitely want to stick with the newer pump, as it can move more fuel, and matches the newer injectors.

I assume you have removed the EGR system and installed blanking plates on the new motor? Also, many of us have removed the throttle plate also. It increases low end torque, and helps cool the motor while idling, as it can get more air. Just another idea to improve the motor.

 

[Dprio34]

Nick, You are the man!! I was just reading through all the links you sent me, and it is the TPS.

All EGR connections have been removed and Blanking Plates fabricated today and installed.
Do you have a recommended technique for removing the throttle plate? Just pull it out?
Drill it out? It appears like the trottle plate mounting points protrude through the elbow. Did you just RTV the holes closed?

I will go with your recommendation and stick with the newer style Injection Pump. There was just a huge "?" in my head
if the pump would work without an input to the TPS.

The Glow Plug Resistor Connection on both wiring harnesses were identical (black wire on top / Red wire on bottom)

The other big hurdle today was the glow plug rail. Very different on the two engines.
The 2L-T rail is mounted on the #4 intake manifold, while 2L-T2 mounts in the center of the intake manifold.
The Glow Plug Current Sensor mounts on #4 Intake Tube and Current flows to the #3 Glow Plug and outwards from there.
The Glow Plug Current Sensor mounts to the center of the intake on the 2L-T2 and flows outward.
Big difference there are two wires on the 2L-T rail and 1 wire on the 2L-T2 rail.

I need to get into the manuals a bit more. I am really scratching my head on why the 2L-T has two wires to the glow plug rail. To complicate things at the cannon plug near the firewall, one wire it black, the other red.
The 2L-T2 has a green wire. Just need to figure how to make this splice.

View attachment 1408333

 

[advlars]

+1 on no tps needed. On all the mechanical L-series diagrams ive looked at the pumps have sensors that go to an emissions ecu which controls egr function etc. There are no feeds back to the pump to control function (except on my wierd 5l pump, which has a tcv on the bottom that is supposed to get info from an emissions ecu.) You should look and see if you have a tcv.

Im curious to see your progress on the glow plugs though. Im in the middle of the same project. My 2lt -> 5lt conversion is requiring the glowplug conversion, but I believe I might have some issues with the timer ECU on mine i need to figure out first.

Ive also been confused about the 2 wires to the rail situation on the 2lt, but electrically speaking, it shouldnt really matter where they are located as long as they are on the rail and recieving the same voltage as the rest of the system right? If youre trying to mate it to the trucks original harness my assumption would be you could just add 2 ring terminals on 2 wires hook them up on 2 glow plugs above the rail and splice them into the 2 wire pigtail.

Ill have to take a look but Im not sure that either of my harnesses have that black plug that leads to the single green wire. You think that that is the current sensor wire for the 2lt2?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Nick, You are the man!! I was just reading through all the links you sent me, and it is the TPS.

All EGR connections have been removed and Blanking Plates fabricated today and installed.
Do you have a recommended technique for removing the throttle plate? Just pull it out?
Drill it out? It appears like the trottle plate mounting points protrude through the elbow. Did you just RTV the holes closed?

I will go with your recommendation and stick with the newer style Injection Pump. There was just a huge "?" in my head
if the pump would work without an input to the TPS.

The Glow Plug Resistor Connection on both wiring harnesses were identical (black wire on top / Red wire on bottom)

The other big hurdle today was the glow plug rail. Very different on the two engines.
The 2L-T rail is mounted on the #4 intake manifold, while 2L-T2 mounts in the center of the intake manifold.
The Glow Plug Current Sensor mounts on #4 Intake Tube and Current flows to the #3 Glow Plug and outwards from there.
The Glow Plug Current Sensor mounts to the center of the intake on the 2L-T2 and flows outward.
Big difference there are two wires on the 2L-T rail and 1 wire on the 2L-T2 rail.

I need to get into the manuals a bit more. I am really scratching my head on why the 2L-T has two wires to the glow plug rail. To complicate things at the cannon plug near the firewall, one wire it black, the other red.
The 2L-T2 has a green wire. Just need to figure how to make this splice.

You know, I just realized I'm not sure if the 2LT-II even has the same throttle system as the 2LTE. On the 2LTE, there is a venturi bolted to the intake manifold, it has a throttle in it as well as a throttle position sensor attached to the shaft. Usually we leave it all intact and just remove the throttle plate only (by drilling out the screws). Anyhow, take a look at yours and see what is on the inlet to the intake manifold. I looked at your pictures, but could not really tell what was there.

Do you have the wiring schematic for your old 2LT engine? Can you compare the two glow system schematics? It's probably best trying to adapt the 2LT system to the 2LT-II.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Just found the manual for the older 2LT engine here: http://wonk.sytes.net/76s/lj/lj70faq/Toyota L 2L 2LT repair manual 1984.pdf

I took a quick look a the manual. It covers four different possible glow systems (start at page 144) for your old 2LT. If you have a 'glow plug current sensor', then you probably have the 'Super glow type' system?

 

[Dprio34]

Nick, I have 2 manuals, but they aren't really giving me the info I need on wiring the glow plug rail. I agree with Advlars, in that it shouldn't really matter which color wire wires match up with the two different harnesses, but just connect them.

I spent most of the day dealing with Toyota North America. They have the clutch disc in stock that need, but won't sell it to me since it isn't for this market. Go figure. So I removed the old dual mass flywheel and put the standard single mass flywheel on. Both are 101 teeth and 8 bolt to crank set up. The single mass is considerably thinner at the crank so be sure to use the bolts from the appropriate motor.

Cleaned up and swapped out clutch plates since they are different too.

Regarding Aisin clutch discs (friction plate), does it matter which side faces which way? The clutch disc had no labels regarding this matter, so I put the "Aisin" facing me/the transmission side. Not sure if this is logical or correct. If I screwed it up please advise before I bolt everything up.

I torqued the Flywheel to 90ftlbs and Pressure Plate to 20ftlbs. And used blue loctite on all bolts.

View attachment 1409073

 

[advlars]

Pretty sure clutch direction matters. The center bit on both of mine stick out further in one direaction or another. Can't remember which way it goes off the top of my head but I think one of my old clutches is labeled. I'll check tomorrow

 

[Dprio34]

Thanks Advlars. That will help me out a lot. I cannot believe the disc wasn't labeled on such a critical thing.

Regarding the glow plug rail wiring, I moved the stud from the #4 Intake tube on the 2L-T to the 2L-T2.
My initial instinct was to just splice, but after further consideration I think that would be a bad idea.
I am going to splice the wires from the firewall (red and black) to the (green and white) of the 2L-T2 at the center mount of the intake manifold. Then I will run a jumper from the #4 mount to the center mount.

I believe the old 2L-T harness sends current/ signal to the Injection Pump off of that same wire further inside the harness.

 

[advlars]

@Dprio34 ,

My clutch from my 2lt has does have a label. The flatter side of the splined hole is stamped "FLY WHEEL SIDE". So the side that protrudes out from the clutch plates should point towards the transmission. Thinking more about it, this makes sense, as it would make sure more surface area of the splines are mated to the input shaft splines.

BTW, What makes you think the glow plugs send signal to the injector pump? You could be correct, but I would think the only line going to your pump should be the fuel cut solenoid. Which should be an independent circuit. Ive been running mine with the glowplug system competely disconnected for a few weeks so far.

 

[Dprio34]

My train of thought is (without ripping into the 2L-T harness) there are some wire splices inside the harness.
When the glow plugs get the signal from the relay to warm up, the injection pump and starter are also get signals, to START and RUN.

If I just do a jumper, I will not have to tear apart the harness which is in descent condition, and will damage the "logic" if in fact there are any "tees" underneath all of that.

If I cut and splice, I could damage something in the logic. Interesting yours is running ok. I guess my reasoning was flawed. Thanks for the update on your clutch disc. That gives me piece of mind too!