NLXTACY
Wits' End
Sheesh. I wound up going with Slee 4" medium Springs knowing I would eventually a drawers full of crap. I was still stinkbugging. 30mm spacer took care of the issue.
Why Not Camber Plates on 2.5 - 3 Inch Lift as Opposed to Camber Bushings? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Farrell Martin
- Start date
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Sheesh. I wound up going with Slee 4" medium Springs knowing I would eventually a drawers full of crap. I was still stinkbugging. 30mm spacer took care of the issue.
You may have pinion angle issues. Thus will be moot if you run part time though.IMO, as long as there aren't any parts rubbing (tie rod on suspension arms), the more caster the better. And if these parts don't rub at 4" lift, they shouldn't rub at 2" lift or even stock height, since the relationship of the axle/knuckles to the radius arms doesn't change with lift hight, just the radius arms to the frame. So I'm gonna give it a shot.
I also really like the idea of the offset trunion bearings (rich man's cut and turn), but with no knuckle job in sight, I would hate to do all that work just to install the bearings.
Are those castor correction trunion bearings as durable as standard bears? They don't seem to be a popular solution.
With out a rear bumper I think 864s is a big part of the problem. I'd start and see if you can find some 863s in the 4sale section. I have to think once the rear Springs a sorted out the front will actually rise up a little.Ok, 22-1/2 from the center of the front hub to the bottom of the flare minus 21.5 equals 1. I went back and double checked, the front springs are 850's and the rears are 864's. These are the springs that Cristo at Slee recommended when I bought the kit from him. As you can see, the stinkbug is just ridiculous.
I have to beleive your truck rides and drives rather poorly
So what about right at 3" or a little above?
It would depend on how much additional weight is on the truck. I'm not familiar with those springs but based on other manufacturers, you will probably have a ride height around 3.5" which would put you in the 4" range for caster correction
Ok, 22-1/2 from the center of the front hub to the bottom of the flare minus 21.5 equals 1. I went back and double checked, the front springs are 850's and the rears are 864's. These are the springs that Cristo at Slee recommended when I bought the kit from him. As you can see, the stinkbug is just ridiculous.
After thinking about it I would double check the tags on the springs. They should give you the model numbers. Almost yhink you have stock ride height springs in the front.
Product developments? I currently stand at 72. I have 30+ that are just written on paper and have gone no further. But 72 actually in development. Granted, not all for the 80 but a good number
This would be me with all that going on.
Hi Landtank,
First off, many thanks. There is a lot of good information in this thread. I have been struggling with a similar caster question. May I jump in with a follow up question regarding your formula?
Last Fall I installed an OME 2.5” lift on my ’95 (heavy springs: OME 2850 Front, 2860 Rear). A local specialty suspension shop installed the OME caster correction bushings. After installation, the caster is still slightly negative (Front R -0.3, Front L -0.2).
I plan to install an ARB front bumper, and at Christo Slee’s recommendation I am not going to further mess with caster correction until this is completed (Joey made the same point earlier in this thread).
As the truck sits right now, measurement from the center of both the front and rear hubs to the base of the flares is 23”. Minus 21.5 is 1.5”. What does measurement this tell me? Many thanks again, Ted
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Ok, 22-1/2 from the center of the front hub to the bottom of the flare minus 21.5 equals 1. I went back and double checked, the front springs are 850's and the rears are 864's. These are the springs that Cristo at Slee recommended when I bought the kit from him. As you can see, the stinkbug is just ridiculous.
We would have only recommended 864's if the info given to us would have indicated a lot of load. What else do you have on the truck? Drawers / tire carrier missing? Or planning to put a rear bumper on?
What it tells me is that you have around 2.5" of height over stock. Caster changes at @ 1.75* per inch. So based on the formula you would theoretically need 4.35* of correction to get the caster back to where the factory had it. OME bushings only provide 2* of correction which is 2.35* short from what that formula calculated.
@amay3
EDIT: corrected information as my original formula was incorrect
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Thanks Rick. Thanks helps. What conclusions do you drawn from the fact that I have the OME CC bushings installed and caster is still slightly negative?
In a just universe I would be buying you beers while pestering you with these questions. Suspension geometry has always eluded me.
If one of us got the cut and turn process down to a science and past the knowledge on, we all could be less concerned about depending on venders. I've had Slee castor plates since I had only 850J's. Since then I installed a 1" spacer, then Slee 4" fronts and now OME 5" comps. I can feel the loss of castor when I attempt to make a fairly quick maneuvers at say 25 mph+. According to my angle finder, my castor is barely 2*. I have decided that the best solution is a cut and turn to dial in about 5* since the vehicle is lifted. I realize that most members probably don't own a welder and other such tools but buying a welder and plasma cutter and learning how to use them opens up some possibilities for us to end up with what we want for cheaper. Not to mention, burning some metal is fun.
bloc
SILVER Star
Plus, cut and turn avoids issues like driveline angle mismatch, bump stop alignment, etc. and while you are in there you can improve the factory radius arm bracket welds and gussets.
You do realize I'm talking myself into a cut&turn now, right?
It's not rocket science....................... Post detailed info and photos if you beat me to it.
bloc
SILVER Star
See sig for ongoing reason I'll be waiting.
As it is, that reason begs for cut&turn eventually, since my new transmission pan prevents fitting a CV front shaft. Part time and stock shaft is the current solution to that problem but if I go on a ski trip I might need highway speeds with 4wd engaged.
Once the swap is done I should have a much better idea of the final weight on the front of the rig and can figure out what to do about lift/geometry later. I'm hoping this engine lightens the front of the truck substantially.
Sorry for OT.. but baldilocks brought up a good point. This method is a good option for people with the tools and skills.
Actually, I just remembered @azcrackshot was having driveline issues after his LS3/6L80 swaprequired ditching the CV front shaft. Might be worth seeing if they can get it done.
As it is, that reason begs for cut&turn eventually, since my new transmission pan prevents fitting a CV front shaft. Part time and stock shaft is the current solution to that problem but if I go on a ski trip I might need highway speeds with 4wd engaged.
Once the swap is done I should have a much better idea of the final weight on the front of the rig and can figure out what to do about lift/geometry later. I'm hoping this engine lightens the front of the truck substantially.
Sorry for OT.. but baldilocks brought up a good point. This method is a good option for people with the tools and skills.
Actually, I just remembered @azcrackshot was having driveline issues after his LS3/6L80 swaprequired ditching the CV front shaft. Might be worth seeing if they can get it done.
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Because the front arms are below the rear tie rod a cut and turn is irrelevant do to the fact that the tie rod will hit the arm prior to gaining anything more that what a caster plate will yield.
In fact, because of my drill position on my 4" caster plates which incorporates a slight arm drop, my plates exceed what can be achieved by a cut and turn.
Just because a popular fix which requires a welder on another platform works well for it doesn't mean it's applicable on this platform and vendors are scalping owners because they lack some skill or ability with some tool.
Pinion angle can be set by cutting off and repositioning the radius arm mounts and then castor can be dialed in with a cut and turn. I do have castor plates but also admit that they are just a rather effective band aid. If I took a stock rig to a professional fabricator in the world of off road and specified all my suspension particulars, surely it would not come back to me with castor plates installed. I'm not bashing on vendors but it's obvious that castor plates are effective only up to a certain lift height. Much past 4" and it's impossible to manage pinion angle for no vibes even with a DC shaft and keep castor under control.. This is where the cut and turn on an 80 becomes necessary. You can go part time in the transfer case but high drive shaft RPM's can also be attained in many offroad scenarios and there you are back to unwanted vibration unless the pinion angle is first set properly.
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It actually rides/drives pretty nice. lots better than stock.
Rear bumper/tire carrier still in the works. drawers are in. I have no complaints with your advise or the rear springs, just want to get the front up to match before I tackle caster.
Sorry guys but my recollection of how I calculate caster was wrong. I measure the hub to flare but subtract 20.5 to get lift height and then multiply by 1.75 for caster requirements.
Something wasn't adding up right and I checked into further and found my mistake. I've gone back and corrected my post to reflect that.
My apologies.
Something wasn't adding up right and I checked into further and found my mistake. I've gone back and corrected my post to reflect that.
My apologies.
I ordered a set of adjustable ones and rubber Toyota bushes last week, I have had the nolathane offset caster bushes in for quite a few years, but never been totally happy with them, I hear the factory rubber gives a smoother ride, and I think may lessen the chances of cracks in the housing over the corrugated roads we have
