New trailer hitch! (1 Viewer)

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Oct 16, 2006
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Location
Reidsville, NC
Looking to replace what I believe to be my original hitch on my 98. When I installed my BIOR rear bumper I noticed the bolts to be in bad shape, and I also have issues with the ps rear hitch bolt lining up. The wings on the Bior bumper use this bolt hole to attach the side of the bumper to the frame. I would like a hitch a little more "low profile "than my current one, one that doesn't hang down quit as much. I found a Draw-Tite here 1998 Toyota Land Cruiser Trailer Hitch - Draw-Tite. This one doesn't use the rear ps bolt hole I am having issues with and seems to be a little more tucked towards the frame. Any thoughts or comments would be helpful. Thanks! Here are a few pics of my current/factory setup.

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That's a class III hitch in the link, which I believe will lower your towing capacity about 10% compared to OEM. That ok?
 
it does not look like the one in the link would give you more clearance at the receiver than the one in your pics, if anything it seems to be less in the middle.
 
I definitely don't want the class 3 Sandroad, good point E!
 
Anyone else have issues with the rear ps bolt hole lining up in frame? It is currently out after I installed my rear BIOR bumper. Mike mentioned some factory issues with that hole being tapped incorrectly/ at a angle, it was a bear to remove. I don't feel comfortable pulling my boat this summer with a bolt missing in hitch, so, should I just have it welded or ?
 
FWIW I don't see a class 5 hitch for my LC unless using weight distr.
 
IIRC everything available state-side is a Class 3. The Reese I have is 6k without distribution and up to 10k with.
 
Rare hitch huh! Im going for some new hardware and will remove my hitch and bumper, might have to get that point welded!
 
I don't think you will find a lower profile hitch than you currently have unless it is custom made. That style of hitch sits real snug to the stock bumper.

Anyone else have issues with the rear ps bolt hole lining up in frame? It is currently out after I installed my rear BIOR bumper. Mike mentioned some factory issues with that hole being tapped incorrectly/ at a angle, it was a bear to remove. I don't feel comfortable pulling my boat this summer with a bolt missing in hitch, so, should I just have it welded or ?
I had this problem when I went to install a hitch on my 99 that had never had one installed. The weld nuts in the frame rail (both driver and passenger side) were not centered in the hole through the frame. One nut was so far off only half of it was visible.

The weld nuts are not welded to the frame, they are welded to a metal strip that sits in the frame. This same metal strip holds both weld nuts and has some wiggle room. You may be able to use a screwdriver or metal rod to reposition the weld nut. The metal strip can also get tweaked or bent when removing or tightening bolts to the weld nut. A good rule of practice is to leave one bolt partially installed when torquing on the other to help prevent the weld nut strip from bending or twisting around in the frame. You may be able to loosen the other bolt sharing the same metal strip to get more wiggle room (I am assuming the BIOR bumper uses all 4 weld nuts on the bottom of the frame). Or you could be unlucky, like myself, and need to enlarge or 'egg-out' the hole in the frame to get clean access to the weld nut.
 
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Rare hitch huh! Im going for some new hardware and will remove my hitch and bumper, might have to get that point welded!

I would bolt (with enlarged hole if needed) rather than weld the hitch. There are instances where the hitch has to come off, like when replacing the OEM exhaust, and having the hitch welded would be a huge pain. If you can't get a bolt in the standard location even with enlarging the hole to get access to the weld nut, you might consider running a long bolt all the way through the frame?
 
I would bolt (with enlarged hole if needed) rather than weld the hitch. There are instances where the hitch has to come off, like when replacing the OEM exhaust, and having the hitch welded would be a huge pain. If you can't get a bolt in the standard location even with enlarging the hole to get access to the weld nut, you might consider running a long bolt all the way through the frame?
THis! I may do this, just enlarge the hole and run a bolt thru it and use a lock nut and maybe locktite!
 
It's not one of the weld nut holes, here is a pic. I will need a serious bit to drill thru thr frame at this length, other solutions?

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GOT IT! Just neededto round out around the opening of the hole, the edge around the bolt hole wouldn't let it get started! Now I am ready to get the boat out! Thanks everyone!
 
If you remove the bumper, is the end of the frame open? After drilling out the hole large enough to line up, can you slip a nut in the end of the bumper down to that spot?

Great! Good work. Now you can get the boat in the water!
 
GOT IT! Just neededto round out around the opening of the hole, the edge around the bolt hole wouldn't let it get started! Now I am ready to get the boat out! Thanks everyone!
So I thought! Tightened everything up to find one of the welded nuts is broken loose, which will require me to remove hitch! Guess I will order all new hardware!
 
If you remove the bumper, is the end of the frame open? After drilling out the hole large enough to line up, can you slip a nut in the end of the bumper down to that spot?

Great! Good work. Now you can get the boat in the water!
I will need to do this now, since one of the welded nuts broke loose!
 
Anyone have a recommendation on where to get the hardware? Can I pick it up at Lowes etc.?
 

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