Dash / Gauge Lights (3 Viewers)

[wngrog]

Yeah that's a pretty common way to get more light in there

 

[bj40green]

All the info you need is in here: -► Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters

Rudi

 

[Coolerman]

Hey guys.

I am going to install a new @Racer65 cluster into my 68 FJ40.

My harness is completely toast so I am wiring everything individually as I add it back.

My alternator is an internal regulator for an FJ60 on a 2F

So, what would be the proper way to wire the 50 amp gauge from the later model Cluster to my alternator? I don't have a fusable link anywhere so I'd rather use a regular fuse if possible but will buy whatever I need to make it work.

In order for the 50 amp gauge to work correctly, it has to be used in shunt mode, ie reading across some known resistance. Wire it according to the diagram Rudi posted above. Make sure the two 5 amp fuses are rated as fast blow. They protect the Amp Meter.
The 14" of 14ga wire will act as a fusible link assuming you are going to run 10 ga wire for your main charge wire. That same 14" of wire will make the meter a bit more responsive.

 

[wngrog]

This one?

 

[bj40green]

Yes, that's (part of) the original wiring diagram.

 

[wngrog]

Yes, that's (part of) the original wiring diagram.

For a stand alone wiring setup that's all I need then? Great. Thank you.

 

[wngrog]

I got my new cluster and have a simple question.

Instead of running new power to my 50 amp gauge as described can I just replace the 50 amp in the cluster with my old 30 amp?

Also my old truck does not have the wires that go into the round pin plug. Anyone have an old plug they can send me so I can wire up the lights?

 

[bj40green]

I got my new cluster and have a simple question.

Instead of running new power to my 50 amp gauge as described can I just replace the 50 amp in the cluster with my old 30 amp?

Also my old truck does not have the wires that go into the round pin plug. Anyone have an old plug they can send me so I can wire up the lights?

So, you have truck with a 2nd gen. cluster and you bought a 4th gen. cluster (Km/h).
Yes, it's doable and yes it's a bit of work.
1. Place an ad in the classifieds for a barrel connector.
2. You can replace the Ammeter but you have to hook it up directly to the studs on the Ammeter. Don't use the two horizontal prongs. You'll burn up the tracks on the circuit board between the prongs and the Ammeter.
3. You have to add a wire between the vertical prong and ground to make the Hi beam indicator light working.
4. You have to buy a new TEMP sensor because Gauges and Sensors are a set! Your TEMP sensor will not work with this cluster.
You'll probably also need an adapter to make it fit.
5. You have to buy a new FUEL sensor. Same story as above but here you'll run into a mounting problem. It doesn't fit.
6. The Oil sensor didn't change over the years, so you're lucky on that.
7. Check your speedo cable. This cluster has a clip-on connection.

Rudi

 

[wngrog]

OK. I put a 2F with all new stuff on the motor. It's got a new temp sensor sticking out of the block.

I am planning on using the studs for all the wires. I just want gauges.

The sending unit in my new OEM fuel tank is a new OEM sending unit. Shouldn't it just wire directly into the new gauge studs?

I already fried that circuit you speak of bench testing it so that amp meter is toast sadly.

I ordered a new speedo cable already


Personally I can live without amps if I have to. I am not worried about bright light indicator or
Blinkers either.

My end goal is a working speedo/odo

Lights if possible to see cluster

Temperature

Oil pressure

Fuel

Thanks for your brain on this.

 

[bj40green]

Check your FUEL and TEMP senders for your 4th gen. cluster in this picture.

So you need TEMP sender 83420-20011
FUEL sender 83320-60050 or 60051. The difference is a ground terminal.

Rudi

 

[wngrog]

Other than the Amp guage will I fry any of the others by just running a wire from the sending unit to them to test it out?

 

[bj40green]

Nope. You can test all you want but with the wrong sensors it simply won't work.

Rudi

 

[bj40green]

Maybe this one fits your cluster: --► 1x 12pin 12 pin DG7 DB7 CRT PMT 5UP1 Valve B12A Base 12F Cathod Ray Tube Socket | eBay

Or you can do something like this

Rudi

 

[wngrog]

Rudy, I bagged on the new cluster. Too many wrong sensors. I'm going to try to bring my old cluster back to life. Thanks for all your patience.

 

[wngrog]

It lives. Well, kinda. The oil pressure is spiked. @beno will get me an early sending unit to match the guage.

Temp guage is seemingly dead. Needle is all right. Does not move.

Fuel. Perfect.

Amp. Reads 1/3 but it is fine. Shows a load when cranked

I also made the lights work.

Success. Enough.

 

[bj40green]

Temp guage is seemingly dead. Needle is all right. Does not move.

When engine is cold the needle shows H. It takes some time before it moves to C and later when the engine heats up gives the right temperature. Maybe a broken wire, loose wire or bad sender.

Your OIL sender is defective or the sender wire is touching ground somewhere. Take the wire of the sender and look if the needle drops back to Low.


Rudi

 

[wngrog]

Don't you think the issue is that I have a 1984 FJ60 sender going to a 1968 guage? I bet the proper sender and it eases right in

 

[bj40green]

Don't you think the issue is that I have a 1984 FJ60 sender going to a 1968 guage? I bet the proper sender and it eases right in

Yes. As I said before: gauges and senders are a set. You can't mix them up.

Rudi

 

[wngrog]

Yes. As I said before: gauges and senders are a set. You can't mix them up.

Rudi

Do you think my amp meter running at 1/3 is because the late model alternator? I'm good with it

 

[bj40green]

Me think........ that the alternator is a high Amp (more than 30Amp) and that the wiring is modified so that you only see discharge and not the charge. If it's a 60Amp or so alternator and the output is really 60Amp it will fry your Ammeter and in the long run your wiring to the Ammeter.
Add a Voltmeter under the dash and it will tell you what is going on under the hood.

Rudi