Build or buy (1 Viewer)

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Jul 14, 2013
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Location
Appleton, Wisconsin
Im searching for a solution to align my axles again after doing the ICON lift that turned out to be about three inches over factory and five inches if you consider the OEM sag. So I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions/recommendations for me? Do I chop and build my OEM or do I buy adjustables? What brand does one buy?

Thanks Mudders
 
What are you building or buying? Panhards?

Guess it depends on your wallet vs free time ratio and the skill/tool sets available to you.

Id recommend getting oem rubber bushings whichever route you go. Or at least rubber over poly.

Metaltech has TJM and ironmans:
TJM FJ80 XGS Adjustable Panhard Bar

Ironman 4x4 FJ80 Adjustable Panhard Bar

Slee has their own or the adjusters:
Slee - Toyota 80 Land Cruiser Series Suspension Arms

Slee - Toyota 80 Land Cruiser Series Suspension DIY Pieces


At $210 for just adjusters they are a little Less than half the price of the bars before welding them up.

Some other folks have found the adj DIY units for a little less on mcmastercarr i believe.
 
What is your center hub to bottom of flare measurement?

I made my adjustments via wheel spacer.
I have a 1.5" on my LR 1.25" on RF & have 1" on my LF & RR.
 
I was considering a few options.
A) Buy Slee links.... SOLD OUT
B) Buy CaliFab rear link w/ a Metaltech (Ironman) Link for the front
C) Buy Wits End DIY weld in brackets for the OEM (Which I am leaning towards currently)

I was looking into the tough dawg links, but I found an old thread that feature a front link not clearing the front pumpkin. So, im a touch hesitant about that.
 
C) Buy Wits End DIY weld in brackets for the OEM (Which I am leaning towards currently)

If it helps...

I have plenty in stock. I'm also about to list the front and rear separate. I've found there is hesitance because some folks just want to do the front or just the rear. It's best to do both at the same time but it's not the end of the world if it's just one at a time.

Retaining stock bushings is a big deal for longevity and repairability.

As a footnote, the front bar is 1.8mm thinner than the rear bar which is why there are two different sizes.
 
If it helps...

I have plenty in stock. I'm also about to list the front and rear separate. I've found there is hesitance because some folks just want to do the front or just the rear. It's best to do both at the same time but it's not the end of the world if it's just one at a time.

Retaining stock bushings is a big deal for longevity and repairability.

As a footnote, the front bar is 1.8mm thinner than the rear bar which is why there are two different sizes.

My concerns with cutting the OEM bars varies from having strong welds to insuring everything clears to making sure its perfect.
 
My concerns with cutting the OEM bars varies from having strong welds to insuring everything clears to making sure its perfect.

It doesn't really have to be perfect per se. The initial measurement for the cut isn't set in stone but helps if it's followed. So long as the welding is good, there is little to be concerned about.
 
I have the Icon 3" lift on 35s. I also installed the 2.5* castor correction bushings. Post lift, my axles were about 3/4" off center. I went with the TJM panhard bars because they were drop-in and took me less than 15 mins to install. If I was more patient, I would have picked up the weld-in sleeves. Just know that when you start to get the growling gear vibes above 50mph, @NLXTACY has you covered with a double cardan front driveshaft as well.
 
Some folks don't understand that when adjusting panhard length after installing a lift to get the axles back to centered on the body like it was when stock that it will result in the axles being WAY off center when the suspension is cycled to the maximum travel. One wheel will be much nearer, or rub on, the frame while the other wheel will impinge upon the flair.
 
What is your center hub to bottom of flare measurement?

I made my adjustments via wheel spacer.
I have a 1.5" on my LR 1.25" on RF & have 1" on my LF & RR.

So how does that offset scrub radius work out of you?

I don't think I would do that if someone paid me to.
 
I have the OME adjustable panhards front and rear. No complaints here
 
No different than yours...
Are you not running 1.25" spacers with your FJC wheels?

My spacers are 1" on all corners, so slightly different.

This is important because it doesn't screw with the geometry of the vehicle and make it likely to do weird s*** on the highway.
 
5" of lift and 37's will do weird s**t on the highway regardless. Geometry is never the same after we goof around these vehicles.
My spacers are 1" on all corners, so slightly different.

This is important because it doesn't screw with the geometry of the vehicle and make it likely to do weird s*** on the highway.
 
Some folks don't understand that when adjusting panhard length after installing a lift to get the axles back to centered on the body like it was when stock that it will result in the axles being WAY off center when the suspension is cycled to the maximum travel. One wheel will be much nearer, or rub on, the frame while the other wheel will impinge upon the flair.
This also holds true with longer control arms. Anything over .25" longer, running only a 35" tire and with a 2" bump stop extension, my rear tire rubs the trailing side of the fender lip when stuffed.
 
My spacers are 1" on all corners, so slightly different.

This is important because it doesn't screw with the geometry of the vehicle and make it likely to do weird s*** on the highway.
I guess a .25" makes all the difference???
 
This also holds true with longer control arms. Anything over .25" longer, running only a 35" tire and with a 2" bump stop extension, my rear tire rubs the trailing side of the fender lip when stuffed.

I had that problem when I went from 315s to 37s. I have early Slee HD LCAs and OEM UCAs. I had to trim the inner edge at the tail of my flairs and I hammered down that silly lump just above the top of the mud flaps. Now the tires just kiss the top of the fenders and rub a wee bit on the frame when I max it out. That means they FIT JUST RIGHT!!
 
I had that problem when I went from 315s to 37s. I have early Slee HD LCAs and OEM UCAs. I had to trim the inner edge at the tail of my flairs and I hammered down that silly lump just above the top of the mud flaps. Now the tires just kiss the top of the fenders and rub a wee bit on the frame when I max it out. That means they FIT JUST RIGHT!!
I just bought new 35's, haven't even sold my old 315's yet and I'm giving serious consideration to getting 37's.
 

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