2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (7 Viewers)

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Well, thanks for posting about this issue guys, very informative. I've been following this thread thinking I would swap my radiator out this spring before the hot season, but now, thinking better do it asap, my 08' has 144k on it, and it's the original radiator, but the water pump and hoses were done 5 k ago.
My radiator at that same spot looks totally fine, but seems like it's a matter of time. Any love form the Toyota dealerships on this recently?
Thanks,
J
 
Hmmm. My '08 has an ARB bumper on the front. Wondering if this bumper will complicate the radiator replacement. I'll have a look at that in a few days when I can.
 
I had the local Toyota dealership exchange my rad and I have a full bull bar bumper. My tech service provider that I always work and schedule with totally forgot about the massive bumper being on there when calculating the total time cost for the job. That fell in my favor as they honored the original price quoted. Really they left everything alone with the exception of the lower TJM to factory skids which had to be removed for access. Nothing more than that.
Assuming that may get have equaled a bit more money for however the techs charge for their time.
 
Been watching my crack :rimshot: and know that the pink spray is getting closer. Ordered the radiator (Denso) and hoses for a little Saturday project.

Since I know there is some controversy surrounding the long-life coolants, especially with our leak prone 5.7s, I wanted to pole the collective 200 conscience on Mud. We've got some pretty bright bulbs on this forum, so I hope to hear from some them with their thoughts.
 
As a whitewater kayaker that has dealt with cracked boats, I wonder if a plastic weld would be a decent fix for this. May keep a plastic welding rod, scraping tool and lighter in my gate storage just in case. Would trust this over jb weld. I have had welded boats last for years.
 
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This EXACT problem happened to me this week. 08' 200 with 95k miles. Looked just like the pictures on page 1 of this thread. I happened to open the hood to upgrade my headlights and I noted the dried pink antifreeze all over the place. It's at the dealership now. Ouch $$.

This actually prompted me to sign up for an account here. Had planned to do so soon because the following items are pending installation: OME BP-51, XD 17" wheels, Toyo Open Country R/T 295/70/17's

Before and after pictures as soon as it's done!
 
This EXACT problem happened to me this week. 08' 200 with 95k miles. Looked just like the pictures on page 1 of this thread. I happened to open the hood to upgrade my headlights and I noted the dried pink antifreeze all over the place. It's at the dealership now. Ouch $$.

This actually prompted me to sign up for an account here. Had planned to do so soon because the following items are pending installation: OME BP-51, XD 17" wheels, Toyo Open Country R/T 295/70/17's

Before and after pictures as soon as it's done!

On the BP-51's... ARB/OME is in the process of addressing an issue with them. The rears are down, but they are still working on an update to teh front coil-overs. Make sure you are receiving the updated rears, and I would suggest you wait on teh fronts until it is confirmed by ARB to be the final update to the fronts.

And... Welcome to the best Land Cruiser Forum in the world! :)
 
On the BP-51's... ARB/OME is in the process of addressing an issue with them. The rears are down, but they are still working on an update to teh front coil-overs. Make sure you are receiving the updated rears, and I would suggest you wait on teh fronts until it is confirmed by ARB to be the final update to the fronts.

And... Welcome to the best Land Cruiser Forum in the world! :)

So that's why the rears are taking so much longer to arrive! Thanks for that tip and the welcome! If it all turns out well, my wife's '13 will get a similar treatment sans the aggressive tires.
 
All, I've been following this a bit since having purchased a 2010 LX with 57k miles. After having owned it a month I finally took some time to pull the covers off, and this is what I found. Three questions:

1) Does it appear to have simply been a radiator cap that wasn't entirely on? Note I placed it back on, and it's clean so far today after the trip to office albeit probably didn't get warmed up enough to make a difference.

2) What radiator is that?

3) I hate those plastic covers that I had to pull off (having owned an 80 series I loved how everything was exposed - very easy to maintain/work on). Any disadvantage to leaving the black covers off?

IMG_20170219_174348899_HDR (002).jpg
 
I'm headed to Cruise Moab in, lessee here, 72 days! I will be having a new radiator installed in the 2-hundo before that trip.
 
All, I've been following this a bit since having purchased a 2010 LX with 57k miles. After having owned it a month I finally took some time to pull the covers off, and this is what I found. Three questions:

1) Does it appear to have simply been a radiator cap that wasn't entirely on? Note I placed it back on, and it's clean so far today after the trip to office albeit probably didn't get warmed up enough to make a difference.

2) What radiator is that?

3) I hate those plastic covers that I had to pull off (having owned an 80 series I loved how everything was exposed - very easy to maintain/work on). Any disadvantage to leaving the black covers off?

View attachment 1405694


FWIW, my '10 LC does not have any markings on the raised box area either.
 
All, I've been following this a bit since having purchased a 2010 LX with 57k miles. After having owned it a month I finally took some time to pull the covers off, and this is what I found. Three questions:

1) Does it appear to have simply been a radiator cap that wasn't entirely on? Note I placed it back on, and it's clean so far today after the trip to office albeit probably didn't get warmed up enough to make a difference.

2) What radiator is that?

3) I hate those plastic covers that I had to pull off (having owned an 80 series I loved how everything was exposed - very easy to maintain/work on). Any disadvantage to leaving the black covers off?

View attachment 1405694
Looks like spew from the cap, not the dreaded crack (yours looks good). Not sure which radiator it is. Don't think there is any disadvantage to leaving the covers off (I hate them also), other than possibly some increased engine noise.
 
Radiator replaced at the dealership. $872.41 parts and labor. Given the seemingly common nature of this failure I asked about the potential for some relief. No luck there despite referencing this thread. It's the same exact radiator with the raised box. Incidentally, still waiting on my BP-51 fronts.
 
IMG_8694.JPG
 
I ordered a new radiator. It arrived today in a slightly damaged box. I pulled it out and inspected it. All good. It's in my bedroom now for safe keeping.
 
I posted this in the "what have you done this weekend" thread, but do yourself a favor and chase those threads with an M8 x 1.25 tap (IIRC). I had to remove my radiator twice before I finally figured out why I couldn't get all four bolts to thread properly. I certainly wasn't expecting that when I paid for a factory Toyota/Lexus part.

I did the radiator, water pump, thermostat and belt last weekend.
 
It's time to work on a solution... I have completely disassembled a new OEM stock Trad radiator. The core is impressively large and well constructed two row unit. Pictured is the cracking culprit as viewed from the inside of the upper header tank. The part number for the upper tank has never changed, even on the new 2016.... and IMO it's no coincidence that the space providing a place to affix or print a part number on the unit has created the failure point.

View attachment 1316514


Since the plastic top part is removable, is it possible just to order the plastic top piece?
 
In theory it is possible. However, the time it would take and the chances of it leaking after disassembly and reassembly are higher than the cost of just replacing the whole thing.
With all the failures, maybe there's a market in refurbishing cores.
 
Looks like a million little metal fingers holding the top tank in place.
 

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