Builds JPs '74 Resto-Mutt (1 Viewer)

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So quick update. Still waiting on the IPOR bumper to come in (so much for the 4-week time they said...more like 8). I've gone back and forth between a rattle can job and a complete tear down and paint job. I've finally found something I like so I'll be going the rattle can route given the amount of free time I have with two kiddos. Plus I want to continue to drive this thing and scratching it will hurt a little bit less! So here is a sneak peak:

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Neither pic does the color justice, but it's a forest green. Problem is Rustoleum only makes their 1919 Deep Forest Green in an ultra flat finish. So I'm hitting it with 2-coats of crystal clear enamel to get the look I want.

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This one is a little better representation:

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Also hooked up my snorkel (temporarily) until I get the inline filter in. I'm using the Redline Weber carb adapter on my Weber 32/36.

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cool build!!!!
Did putting clear over the flat camo paint actually gloss it up well?
 
Great truck but definitely a parts rig. The floor mounted dimmer switch and fuse box make it (those parts) earlier than 73. But the A pillar has the holes for the post 75 style door stops. Is the key in the column or on the dash to the left of the steering wheel?
 
@SKULLYOTA - it actually glossed up really well!

@tlc762 umm...both! :D

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In all seriousness it was originally on the dash. However the ignition hole didn't look original and when I swapped in the later column it fit perfect at the firewall (later style firewall where I didn't need a column support). Also the floor dinner looks to be butchered into the floor with a very non OEM looking hole.
 
Ok. WOW. You have a 73 later column, tub (no tool box), and dash (radio opening and no blinker lights in the dash). But you have the earlier gauge cluster without the blinker arrows which would match your earlier wiring harness. Are you using the floor dimmer or the column dimmer?
My 72 has a later gauge cluster grafted into the original harness along with a 2F.
 
Well...the good news is that the carrier is on. (Sorry for the crappy picture)

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Bad news is I found out that my rear member on my frame is tweaked. Not sure what the PO did but the center of the member bows outward like they tried to yank something out using the 4 stock hitch holes.

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Tomorrow I'm going to try to get some long threaded rods and see if I can work the bumper down flush little by little and get the ends sucked down to the rear frame member.
 
No progress on the bumper yet as I had to travel for work. I did get some nice shiny new stuff to help finish up the bumper install this weekend:

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Not a whole lot of progress as of late.

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Gathering parts for my 4-wheel disc brake conversion. Picked up some v6 4-runner calipers and pads today and also got the Rear Disc kit from BTB from the classifieds a while back.

DISC BRAKE CONVERSION KIT REAR FJ40 FJ55 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER EARLY THRU 1980

Also ordered the remaining stuff I need from Georg which should be here this week. (TG rotors, backing plate eliminators, hoses, and a bunch of other misc stuff)

Soon I will start the tear down of both axles. More to come!
 
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Looks really good so far. I like that bumper and tire carrier. I may have to start saving for one. Good choice on color too, I think when you are done it will look really sharp.
 
Did you encounter any issue installing the LH fender? It appears to be a late model "with winch" type fender. Wondering what the difference is.

No issues at all! It just bolted right in and honestly I can't tell any difference from the one I removed. - Justin
 
So quick update. Still waiting on the IPOR bumper to come in (so much for the 4-week time they said...more like 8). I've gone back and forth between a rattle can job and a complete tear down and paint job. I've finally found something I like so I'll be going the rattle can route given the amount of free time I have with two kiddos. Plus I want to continue to drive this thing and scratching it will hurt a little bit less! So here is a sneak peak:

View attachment 1319504 View attachment 1319505

Neither pic does the color justice, but it's a forest green. Problem is Rustoleum only makes their 1919 Deep Forest Green in an ultra flat finish. So I'm hitting it with 2-coats of crystal clear enamel to get the look I want.

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I've used that clear coat on lots of stuff. It's not durable at all. POR15 seems to make a decent clear coat in a can. Honestly I would just get some real automotive clear and a cheap spray gun. Will not cost that much and will hold up a lot longer. Those wheels are freaking awesome widened like that. And I like the green shade u picked.
 
After fighting some stubborn cone washers and knuckle studs I finally have both ends stripped down with the races and inner axle seals removed.

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Just getting to some of this stuff was a chore.

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Next up will be hitting these knuckles with some high grit sandpaper to remove some of the light putting.

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Also plan to pull the 3rd member and clean the axle housing as best as possible since it was full of chocolate sludge.
 
Started stripping down the housing in preparation for paint.

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Decided to pull the 3rd member given how much sludge came out of the housing.

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Looks like the water contamination must have sat awhile from the PO as there is a portion of the diff that is rusted.

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But overall cleaned it up and plan to just shove it back in and run it for now.

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